Yes, Fred, but you still have to tin the wire. I guess you save on solder
and get less fumes which is a consideration.
David
G3UNA
- Original Message -
From: "Trail Fox" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To:
Sent: Friday, March 09, 2007 1:48 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Tinning toroid leads
FWIW I to
a quick tug or two through a pinch of 150 grit sandpaper does the same thing
and makes it easier to start the solder blob working. it just breaks the
enamel coating a bit; no need to sand down to a bare wire.
and without any chance of nicking.
73
jim ab3cv
___
The video on tinning toroid leads, does point out the ease of doing it by
first scraping even a single bare copper spot on the lead, and then starting
the application of iron heat and solder wire there.
I had not seen this before. He used an Xacto knife blade and one swipe to
start the spot.
David, W4SMT wrote:
I did 10 of them last night. The solder blob method works fine. I found the
key is to have the soldering iron as hot as possible (wide open on my Weller
station) and keep feeding fresh solder to the blob as you move along the
lead. It takes about 3 seconds per lead. The enamel
I did 10 of them last night. The solder blob method works fine. I found
the key is to have the soldering iron as hot as possible (wide open on
my Weller station) and keep feeding fresh solder to the blob as you
move along the lead. It takes about 3 seconds per lead. The enamel
bubbles away and sen
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