Thank you, that turned out to be very close to the problem. My cold /
hot flap had gotten stuck in the wrong position, so a lot of air was
flowing but not through the resistive core. Luckily it was an easy fix
that did
not require me to remove the dash.
Jay
On February 17, 2016 8:15:36 AM ES
You might need a new heater core. Your description, though, could just as well
be ducting problem. If the controlling cable fell off, for example, the air
would not be ducted across the heater core anymore and you’d see the current
drop and lack of heat.
Bruce
> I have an S-10 conversion with
EV
Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 2016 3:49 PM
To: Electric Vehicle Discussion List
Subject: [EVDL] Resistive heater core access for S-10 conversion (EVA kit?)
tips / tricks?
I have an S-10 conversion with a resistive heater core (I assume from
EVA, who supplied the rest of the kit). Unfortunately
I have an S-10 conversion with a resistive heater core (I assume from
EVA, who supplied the rest of the kit). Unfortunately, I believe the
heater core may be failing. It still draws 10+ amps when I first turn it
on, but the draw rapidly drops to under an amp within 15 seconds, where
it used to
