[h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?

2010-07-01 Thread Kathryn Pinner
Thanks for all your input. I've used that technique for belt loops and tacking linings in place, but never knew the name bride, and also never thought to use it as a reinforcement. When using it as a neck opening slash reinforcement, do you think that it would be a short bar attached near the

Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?

2010-07-01 Thread Carmen Beaudry
- Original Message - From: Kathryn Pinner pinn...@mccc.edu Subject: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ? Thanks for all your input. I've used that technique for belt loops and tacking linings in place, but never knew the name bride, and also never thought to use it as a

Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?

2010-07-01 Thread Kathryn Pinner
That would certainly reinforce it. Do you do the same for the lower end of side seams when they are open flaps and the cuffs? Kate When using it as a neck opening slash reinforcement, do you think that it would be a short bar attached near the point on both sides, or would it be worked

Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?

2010-07-01 Thread Carmen Beaudry
That would certainly reinforce it. Do you do the same for the lower end of side seams when they are open flaps and the cuffs? Kate Usually not the cuffs, unless the person I'm sewing for puts a lot of stress on that seam, but certainly on the side slits. Carmen

Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?

2010-07-01 Thread Kathryn Pinner
I've put little gussets there, but like the idea of a bride better. Thanks! Kate That would certainly reinforce it. Do you do the same for the lower end of side seams when they are open flaps and the cuffs? Kate Usually not the cuffs, unless the person I'm sewing for puts a lot of stress

Re: [h-cost] Hill Bucknell - re-drawings source images

2010-07-01 Thread Patricia Dunham
Hi Laurie, A quick google didn't turn up much but I did find this: da Monticello, Catarina [Joyce Cottrell] Since You Ask: Hill Bucknell Patterns for the 16th Century. Compleat Anachronist 40, 1988. Which led me, eventually, digging under the bed!, to Compleat Anachronists #38, 39 AND

Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?

2010-07-01 Thread Chris Bertani
I do not, since neither is a slash, and the flat fell seam helps take any strain. I usually put gussets at the bottom of the side seams, but neither gets the same stress that the bottom of the neck opening. I also buttonhole stitch around the bottom of the slash, beyond the point where a rolled

[h-cost] seam treatments

2010-07-01 Thread Lisa A Ashton
Hello again. Im working away on my Civil War era ensemble, and my question for today is: seam treatments for skirts--if I am using an unterlining, rather than a separately made lining, should the seams be finished in some way, left raw, or sewn together at the edge with a running stitch?

Re: [h-cost] seam treatments

2010-07-01 Thread Kim Baird
The skirts I have seen had seams finished by hand overcastting. But not with the seams together-you might need to let it out. Kim BTW--I serge mine. Who's going to see them? -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lisa A

Re: [h-cost] seam treatments

2010-07-01 Thread Lisa A Ashton
Actually, this is for a competition piece, so the judges ARE going to be looking at it. Do you mean, that each skirt panel is hand-overcasted separately? Because Im not sure that makes sense--I was expecting, that after the seam was in, either #1) the raw seam edges were overcast together, #2)

Re: [h-cost] seam treatments

2010-07-01 Thread Lists
The most common treatment I've found on mid-19th century original garments has both seam allowances pressed to one side. If the selvage edge has been not been used, both seam allowances are overcast together. If the selvage edge has been used, then they're just pressed to one side. During this

Re: [h-cost] Secondary question - bride ?

2010-07-01 Thread albertcat
Usually not the cuffs, unless the person I'm sewing for puts a lot of stress on that seam, but certainly on the side slits. I will do a bar tack on the seams where they open at the cuffs which is not a bride of course. And the side slits usually have a small gusset set into where they

Re: [h-cost] seam treatments

2010-07-01 Thread Lisa A Ashton
Thank you so much--this was JUST what I wanted to know. In my case, I am actually using the selvages, but they don't show up on every seam, so I will probably just overcast everything to make it look consistent. I actually did flat-felled seams ont he hoops and will carry it through for hte

Re: [h-cost] seam treatments

2010-07-01 Thread albertcat
The most common treatment I've found on mid-19th century original garments has both seam allowances pressed to one side. If the selvage edge has been not been used, both seam allowances are overcast together. If the selvage edge has been used, then they're just pressed to one side. During this

Re: [h-cost] seam treatments

2010-07-01 Thread albertcat
The skirts I have seen had seams finished by hand overcastting. But not with the seams together-you might need to let it out. ** With skirts this full, most letting out is done with redistributing the fabric as opposed to letting a seam out. Besides, the seam allowances are like