I have been thinking about this since your message came through a few hours
ago, trying to come up with a source to prove or disprove the use of
gathers in 1550 to 1600. (One of the things I adore about this list is that
folks site documentation to back up opinions.) However, I'm drawing a blank
to
It's not a leap to assume that the lower classes couldn't afford the
yardage to do proper regular pleats, box pleats or cartridge pleats, and
therefore did indeed gather out of necessity. For example, if one only had
enough yardage to make a skirt that was 5 inches wider than the hip
Methinks
Considering everything is hand done I have suspicion that the tailor used the
thing that was readily available, his thumb. This is what I do in spacing for
cartridge pleats and it works for me. Simply the width of my thumb, even if I
am marking a flat piece.
Otherwise we know they used paper
Thanks to you both!!
a. Not upper class, more middling.
b. pleats are fine by me.
c. have at least 4x waist.
d. allowing for bum roll
Saw fabric (in the form of a pair of draperies) in a thrift store. Hy’ing my
buns back there tomorrow to pick them up.
Too bad though— cartridge pleating/gauging
I used 3 54" widths of fabric for my skirt. I made cartridge pleats with
1/4" gingham for spacing. I went up 3, down 3 for the pleats, (so each pleat
was 6 1/4" squares). My waist is about 30". And I did the middle first, then
the middle of that, etc. Until I could eyeball the rest.
Sharon C.
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