I am looking for an imac newer and faster than my current G4. My
needs are not that great, mostly web browsing and word processing.
After a few days following ebay it seems there is quite a price
difference between the G5 series and the Intel Core 2 Duos. I am
tempted to get the cheaper G5
Could someone please direct me to a good take apart instruction for
the imac G4. Specifically, i am toying with the idea of trying to
replace a display that has suffered a spill and cannot be cleaned.
This would be on the 1ghz usb 2.0 model. Or anyone done this repair?
At this stage i am
You could always try to use Q-[kju:] with FreeDOS and have a virtual DOS
computer which will be slightly slower but it should eliminate the problem
where the game becomes unresponsive to mouse clicks.
--
C:\win
Bad Command Or File Name
C:\
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As long as you can get a copy of Leopard to run, the G5 should keep you busy
for a couple of years. But I would be expecting a 25-50% discount over Intel.
cjc
On 03/03/2011, at 6:49 AM, william wrote:
I am looking for an imac newer and faster than my current G4. My needs are
not that great,
I picked up an iMac G5 1.8GHz machine about a year ago for $300. It was a good
buy then - heavy Mac compared to the newer Intel versions, but it has been in
use everyday and I am very happy to have it.
Bob
On Mar 7, 2011, at 7:51 AM, Christopher Collins wrote:
As long as you can get a copy of
I think I heard that the G5 imacs can have issues with the capacitors on the
logic board, but I don't know if they were limited to specific
models/revisions. I'm not sure about the intel ones, or if they'll hold up to
long term use (as the so-called bad G5 ones have had to).
Having recently
Just beware of the known problems with a G5 iMac. The 1st generation G5 iMac
had faulty capacitors, as well as power supplies, and the generation after
that commonly had video chip problems. If you can get a 1st generation G5
iMac, that has good capacitors, and a good power supply, hopefully one
However, PPC Macs are a dead end, and getting deader every day; unless the
G5 literally falls into your lap, spend the extra bucks and get an intel
iMac or Mini.
I can echo this.
My desktop (PPC G5 1.8 GHz, 2GB) has been in once for the video chip issues
(and should go in again) and it's
On Mar 3, 2011, at 12:53 PM, william wrote:
Could someone please direct me to a good take apart instruction for
the imac G4.
Google iFixit.
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The list FAQ is at
Beware of the heat sinks. You will separate them when you pull the
bottom off. They can become fused together. I use a knife to seperate
them. You could damage the motherboard if you just pry the bottom off.
-Jonas
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Hello there!
The bluetooth module is not compatible with G4 but your Airport
Extreme card is usable if you have 1.0Ghz or faster CPU. Below 1.0Ghz
just Airport card will work.
Sincerely,
Balazs Praszna
On márc. 1, 01:39, WV Summer Lady foreversavedi...@yahoo.com wrote:
can I put the airport
iFixit won't have the manual for it.
2011/3/7 John Callahan jcalla...@stny.rr.com:
On Mar 3, 2011, at 12:53 PM, william wrote:
Could someone please direct me to a good take apart instruction for the imac
G4.
Google iFixit.
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Dear Jack!
The EFI firmware password essentially stops you doing any of the
important key combinations at boot, resetting PRAM/NVRAM, single user
mode the whole shebang. If your are screwed and cannot get to a DVD to
boot OR you have forgotten your password there is only one way around
it.
1.
I have an ancient 600 Mhz G3 iMac SE -- slot-load -- that I have been
using as an iTunes server for quite some time. (It was , also, just
fine for light web browsing.) Unfortunately, the CRT/power supply has
just gone kaput.
For $40, I have been able to purchase a working 500 Mhz iMac but,
I have just upgraded my 20inch iMac G4, up to 2GB of RAM and running 10.5.8.
It is still a great computer and for my needs work and runs perfectly, not
slow at all, of course no fast as the last iMacs.
I even had to replace the logic board because the video chip failure, and I
am happy to have
You would have to swap the whole motherboard to do get the 600MHZ processor
in the new unit. It should work, just make sure that the cooling fans line
up and are in the same places in both cases. I think it's worth it.
-Jonas
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I have taken G3 iMacs apart before, and it's all a risky business. Some work
with each other, some won't even boot. It depends, though. A 500 to 600Mhz
board will have a more likely chance of working with it's components than
something of a greater processor frequency difference, just as long as
I know that I was able to swap a 400MHZ board into a 500MHZ case. It's
really not that big of a deal, just keep track of your screws. Once you get
them both opened up it should be pretty clear if it will work.
-Jonas
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For example, I have tried to install a 700Mhz board on a 500Mhz iMac of a
previous revision, but the logic board I installed wouldn't boot for some
reason. However, when placed back into the original machine it worked fine.
Maybe it has something to do with the ROM or components.
On Mon, Mar 7,
Yeah at least Zeke is only trying to move up by 100MHZ. I'd say it's worth a
shot.
-Jonas
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The list FAQ is at http://lowendmac.com/imac/list.shtml and our netiquette
guide is
If you open up the first generation G5 iMac, you original capacitors are all
stamped with a K. If they are stamped with something else, they've been
replaced. I've seen ones stamped with Y and X.
-Jonas
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for those
On Mar 7, 2011, at 12:56 PM, Zeke wrote:
I have an ancient 600 Mhz G3 iMac SE -- slot-load -- that I have been
using as an iTunes server for quite some time. (It was , also, just
fine for light web browsing.) Unfortunately, the CRT/power supply has
just gone kaput.
For $40, I have been
1. The multiple responses are great.
2. Thanks!
I'm conducting research via serial number and it appears that both
units were made around June 2001, with the slower model actually being
a newer revision: 600 Mhz made in Mexico and the 500 Mhz in Korea.
As a guess, the Graphite 600 Mhz SE was a
Lets see if I can make this clear as mud.
The bottom of the 600 Mhz iMac SE (G3) says: 600/GR/128/40/CDRW/RUltra/
56k/FW/VGA/APR with serial number RN1093DVKLB
The bottom of the 500 Mhz iMac (G3) says: 500/SN/128/20/CDRW/ULTRA/56k/
VGA with serial number P112513TLFB
Good info?
Yours,
Zeke
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Those 2 revisions are similar, as long as the 2 have nearly or exactly
identical components such as firewire, ability for airport, basically as
long as the 2 logic boards look the same, then you're good to go. If you're
swapping out on something that one logic board has and the other doesn't,
then
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