Sterling,
The Stew-Mac device can be made to work if you're persistent. Making your own
is probably best, assuming you have a reamer. Are you trying to fit a whole new
set of pegs, or just touching up some that have gone slightly oval? A little
chalk and a deft touch with a file might see you
I'll add my two cents, though Richard provided a wealth of ideas. Planing
down the existing bridge is an excellent tactic! I find aliphatic glues
(white or yellow) actually easier to remove than hide glue. They often come
loose without the addition of water. I put a several layers of aluminum
I think there may be a correlation between the working properties of a given
timber and the perceived sonic possibilities it has to offer. When I think
of European beech, the interesting shimmer of a freshly planed surface comes
to mind, whereas North American beech has a certain ropiness to
I've been using the same set of Marples Blue Chip for a dozen years now. If
I recall correctly, the bevel angle when new was 25 degrees. I've raised
that to 30 degrees with a micro-bevel at about 32. This really affected the
edge-holding ability. They don't chip nearly so easily.
I do have
pattern for a rose - you'll have to find
another source. A traditional drawing would have been welcome.
The designers of the NNM deserve a big thank you for providing such
amazing detailed photography on the web site!
Ted Woodford
- Original Message -
From: Michael pdxl...@gmail.com
Hi Paul,
Ted Woodford here. As a relative newcomer to the lute-building game myself,
I've noticed a few of those little omissions in the Lundberg book.
You will definitely want facets. Unless you are building a multirib with
27+ ribs, you will find that getting the angles to mate is nearly
