Bill,
Mahogany as an export timber arrived on the scene fairly late in terms of
lute construction. Very little of it made its way into European cabinetry
shops until the 18th century. Most of the mahogany growing at that time was
in areas controlled by Spain and in 1622 Cuban mahogany was dec
Hi Paul,
Ted Woodford here. As a relative newcomer to the lute-building game myself,
I've noticed a few of those little omissions in the Lundberg book.
You will definitely want facets. Unless you are building a multirib with
27+ ribs, you will find that getting the angles to mate is n
pattern for a rose - you'll have to find
another source. A traditional drawing would have been welcome.
The designers of the NNM deserve a big "thank you" for providing such
amazing detailed photography on the web site!
Ted Woodford
- Original Message -
From: "
I've been using the same set of Marples Blue Chip for a dozen years now. If
I recall correctly, the bevel angle when new was 25 degrees. I've raised
that to 30 degrees with a micro-bevel at about 32. This really affected the
edge-holding ability. They don't chip nearly so easily.
I do have o
Sterling,
The Stew-Mac device can be made to work if you're persistent. Making your own
is probably best, assuming you have a reamer. Are you trying to fit a whole new
set of pegs, or just touching up some that have gone slightly oval? A little
chalk and a deft touch with a file might see you
I think there may be a correlation between the working properties of a given
timber and the perceived sonic possibilities it has to offer. When I think
of European beech, the interesting shimmer of a freshly planed surface comes
to mind, whereas North American beech has a certain ropiness to it
I'll add my two cents, though Richard provided a wealth of ideas. Planing
down the existing bridge is an excellent tactic! I find aliphatic glues
(white or yellow) actually easier to remove than hide glue. They often come
loose without the addition of water. I put a several layers of aluminum fo
