Wonder how much them things are. Maybe I should try some used ones first.
Peter Frederick wrote:
Kaleb:
Pull a vaccum on the supply line. If it won't hold, the transducer is
toast. I'd replace both of them, it's been known to fix the problem
right up (or all three -- EGR, flap, and
Yea, that too, could be low.
Peter Frederick wrote:
Way low on freon -- high side at 70F and 1500 rpm with compressor
engaged should be about 250 psi. The other choice is a bad compressor,
but you should have more pressure than that in the low side if the
compressor is bad. May have a
this motor is VERY quiet, cant hardly tell its a diesel(like all 2.5T's
should be)
Peter Frederick wrote:
Check the turbo and the waste gate control (electronic? If so, the
transducer is likely bad, no boost!)
Make sure you have good fuel delivery to the IP, too -- the hoses on
the
Which is why I do BOTH when doing wheel bearings.
LWB250 wrote:
I had a 108 one time (1970 280S) that had the absolute
worst rumbling sound in the front end. It was coming
from the left front (driver's side) and was most
certainly a bad wheel bearing.
I changed the LF wheel bearing and
that one of my grandmothers has never had anything done to it.
Hendrik wrote:
Anything can fail but the question is can it be repaired economically.
Strange how people put up with cars breaking down but if a washing
machine decides to go down after 6 years people are in shock.
Kaleb C.
yep, mine does nothing. Im going to get into it tomorrow I suppose.
John Robbins wrote:
Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
I also noticed while idling, if you run the engine ad various RPM,
the flap deal on the turbo outlet never moved at all. On any other
2.5 I have seen, it seems to move back and
The amount of use makes a difference - just like miles on a car.
We're on our second Maytag - and I've had to repair both of them. With
four kids, we've washed a LOT of clothes. Both washers had seals
damaged by stuff from kids pockets that got into them, then the water
either corrodes what's
All,
It took a while, but I was finally able to disable the disfunctional starter
interlock on the 74 240D. The wiring diagram for the interlock circuitry shows
a rat's nest of switches, lines and connectors. The actual interlock relay is
embedded inside the 10-pin box under the dash. But it
Robert,
Clear as mud.
Understanding MTBF is the reason I searched for a 70's Corvette with about
50,000 miles on the clock when I decided to buy one. Even though my Vette is
a 1977, I know that all of the major modules and assemblies are in decent
shape. The rubber parts are another story.
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