Oh I forgot about that bugger. That's where one should have a spouse with small
hands...
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John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905
On Nov 7, 2010, at 1:01, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:
Finished the job today. Inner bolt on the upper arm, left
Finished the job today. Inner bolt on the upper arm, left side, is a
bugger. All in all pretty straightforward once you know the wheel
carrier has to come out. On the right side, you have to take out the
washer tank, battery, and battery tray. While the tray was out, I
cleaned it and
I printed out the jobs, but never really looked at them. Took them
apart, beat out the old ball joints and pressed the new ones in.
Rusty's proper press is just slick. It only takes about 2 minutes
each to press in the new joints. Whole job is about 4 hours so far;
To take apart the front
I am about to embark on changing the lower joints on the 126. The
book says to take the wheel carrier loose before you start. Seems to
me that it could be extracted with the hub and upper joint still
connected.
Anyone got advice for 126 LBJ RR?
I have the official press (from Rusty) to
There is no way to remove the ball joint with the wheel and caliper
installed.
You will have to remove the steering knuckle from the car, put it in
a large vise, and drive out the ball joint from the bottom with a 10
lb sledge and a driver of some sort (unless you have the factory
tool,
Actually it cannot be extracted and inserted with the hub still attached to the
knuckle. It is pressed into the knuckle from the top, and the bore for it is
angled so that the top of the LBJ leans toward the spindle/hub.
--
John W Reames
jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile:
OK, so it sounds like it has to come off. Taking off the hub is no
problem. How long does it take to do both sides? A day for the
backyarder?
Actually it cannot be extracted and inserted with the hub still
attached to the knuckle. It is pressed into the knuckle from the
top, and the bore
