Thanks Jim,
That seams to have worked although I did get a double backfire through both
carburators. Could that be from beeing too advanced?
Thanks again
George
-- Original message --
In a message dated 7/30/2005 10:28:39 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL
PROTEC
In a message dated 7/30/2005 10:28:39 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Now I'm trying to set the timing and I'm turning the distributor and every
thing is fine at about 1000 RPM & 10 BTDC.
I turn the distributor clockwise just a hair more, and the rpms drop and th
BTW, The fast idle screw is missing from my carburators. Would this be related
to this problem?
Is the fast idle screw, just a screw w/ a spring? is that something I can get
at home depot? if so doe anybody know the screw size & length?
Thanks
George
-- Original message --
I reveresed the coil wiring and took the dwell meter from under the battery,
like Dan(benzbarn) suggested and I was able to get & set the dwell properly.
41*. Thanks Dan! Woohoo!
Now I'm trying to set the timing and I'm turning the distributor and every
thing is fine at about 1000 RPM & 10 BTDC
Yes I do.
-- Original message --
yes, the distributor wire. not at the distributor end - at the other end down
on the frame rail or inner fender.
you should have the 2.8 engine
Dan--- Begin Message ---
___
For used parts email [EMAI
yes, the distributor wire. not at the distributor end - at the other end down
on the frame rail or inner fender.
you should have the 2.8 engine
Dan
Hey Dan,
Benz did quite a few changes to this model as the ran out of parts. I beleive
they also went from a 2.5 to a 2.8 somehere in that time as well.
I did pull a vacuum and the cell. Both the advance & retard do work. In fact
it's kinda hard to start the vehicle without the advace.
Don't k
Hook your dwell meter right at the end of the green distributor wire where it
goes to a small junction box. There should be a small metal post sticking up -
hook on there. You can't take a reading off the coil like a regular system.
Dan
Well, it should have an aluminium distributor for that year so maybe it was
changed. I'll have to look in my specs to see what you should have. I have a
customer who has the same car as you and it's a ' 70 with aluminium
distributor. 30 degrees is ideal for this unit.
If the shaft bushings are
Ok. I was going through the dwell manual and I saw the image to hookup the the
meter.
It had the Pos to the battery and the - to the distributor. I just went out to
look and I have a black wire hooked up to the + side of the coil. This is where
I am getting my reading from the - side of the coi
Yeah I remember/saw that one.
It does have a capacitor. Are we thinking that's gone bad?
-- Original message --
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> >
> > Hey Mitch,
> >
> > I just went though all the email since this morning and nothing on "trig".
> I'll keep on
> > looki
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Hey Mitch,
>
> I just went though all the email since this morning and nothing on "trig".
> I'll keep on
> looking.
It was a very brief email, somewhat criptic, but I wondered if he was saying the
car had capacitor discharge electronic ignition.
Here's Dan's entire
Hey Mitch,
I just went though all the email since this morning and nothing on "trig". I'll
keep on looking.
Thanks
George
-- Original message --
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> > I took all my reading at about 800-900 rpms
> >
> > I went from 0.06 all the way to 0.026
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I took all my reading at about 800-900 rpms
>
> I went from 0.06 all the way to 0.026. the smallest reading I got was 51.
>
> Any feedback would be greatly appriciated.
>
> This is on a 72 250 w114 m130.
I know nothing about the ignition on that car, but the symptom (
Ok. Went to Autozone (I know I know) and picked up another set of points.
Dan, The housing is metal, magnet stuck, and the last digits of the casting is
187 003. I did not find an oil cup on the side of the housing. There was a ball
and the plates that moved all got point grease. moves much smoo
One of the problems on cars with CD ignition is that people never service the
distributor. Since the points will last much longer, the normal light oiling
during change out usually never gets done. The rubbing block needs a bit of
point grease, oil cup on the side of the housing needs a few dro
the contact surfaces that render your points
> unusable. Like Peter said, if there is any doubt just replace them.
>
> Barry
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Peter Frederick
> Sent: Wednesday, July 27,
If you oil the felts on the main shaft through the oiler they last a long time.
The original bushings are usually steel but the replacements are some sort of
brass - possibly self lubricating.
How long do bearings last on these distributors?
Yeah I though about the magnet thing after I sent the email. There should be a
law against sending email that early ;)
-- Original message --
I rebuild distributors here with a proper distributor testing machine. CD
igni
I rebuild distributors here with a proper distributor testing machine. CD
ignition stands for capacitive discharge, an early electronic ignition device.
Put a magnet on the housing which should fall off. Pretty easy to see if it's
aluminum or not.
Dan
Thanks Jim,
I'll check it out. There is only 120K on the vehicle but it could be premature
wear.
If it is failing, is there a rebuild kit for it?
Thanks
George
-- Original message --
In a message dated 7/27/2005 7:07:51 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL
PROTECT
Ok. What's CD ignition?
& 30* for aluminium distributor? Any quick & dirty way to check if I do have an
alum distributor?
-- Original message --
On this car with CD ignition? Just about forever..--- Begin Message ---
___
For used
Hey Peter,
Will wheel bearing grease do the job or do I need something more specific?
Yeah I noticed the rubbing block was worn a little uneven. Didn't even consider
that being a factor.
Set the switch wrong? how do you set it correctly?
Thanks
George
-- Original message
In a message dated 7/27/2005 7:07:51 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I have a 72 250 w114 M130 and I was trying to adjust the dwell. the closest
I got it was 51*. I tried everything from 0.06- 0.19 " feeler gauges.
I'm guessing that the points are bad.
Can some
surfaces that render your points
unusable. Like Peter said, if there is any doubt just replace them.
Barry
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Peter Frederick
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2005 9:06 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dwe
On this car with CD ignition? Just about forever..
If you have the aluminium distributor it should be set to 30 degrees.
Standard direct points will last maybe 5000 miles. Points on
transistor switch coils will last maybe 15,000, not usually more.
Dirt or oil kill them, make sure the new ones are lubricated correctly
(a tiny amount of high melting point grease on the BACK side of the
rubbing block, not the fron
Yeah I was reading the right scale. Thx for the tip.
how long should points last anyhow?
-- Original message --
> If the dwell doesn't vary with gap, the points aren't making contact
> properly. "Dwell" is actually closed time in degrees of rotation -- do
> make sure y
If the dwell doesn't vary with gap, the points aren't making contact
properly. "Dwell" is actually closed time in degrees of rotation -- do
make sure you have the meter set for (or are reading) the six cylinder
scale -- else they read wrong.
New ones are about $8, foolish not to replace them.
Hi all,
I have a 72 250 w114 M130 and I was trying to adjust the dwell. the closest I
got it was 51*. I tried everything from 0.06- 0.19 " feeler gauges.
I'm guessing that the points are bad.
Can someone second that guess?
Thanks
George
31 matches
Mail list logo
