John Robbins wrote:
>
> For my 602 it was a walk in the park... didn't even need a u-joint or
> anything. The 603 has a bit more 'stuff' attached to the manifold and
> all the extra molding to provide mounting points and whatnot make it
> much more challenging. At least for the two on the bot
I used a 1/4" drive with a 6mm socket and a cut-off piece of 6mm Allen
wrench, a 1/4" drive extension, a 1/4" to 3/8" adapter, and finally
the 3/8" ratchet to remove mine. Then used the same set-up,
substituting a 3/8" drive torque wrench for the re-assembly. Worked
great on both the 603 and the 60
I found on mine that I could push/tap a regular allen directly into every bolt
and use this (with pliers) to break them free. Then I used a 1/4" drive 1/4"
socket with 6mm hex/allen bit and remove the bolts the rest of the way.
Luther
On Tue, 26 Jun 2007 09:03:30 -0500, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTE
Jim Cathey wrote:
> I don't like the ball head idea much, but only because the
> tool is applying the full torque to a lesser area of the
> fastener's head. I think this risks bolt head deformation
> too. I'd think a properly seated allen bit with a U-Joint,
> if required, would be better.
Makes
n List"
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 5:46 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OM603 Intake Manifold
> Are there any tips/tricks to getting the intake manifold off of an
> OM603? I've managed to strip the hex heads on the top of #1 and the top
> of #6 (only stripped one hex bolt before t
> They aren't rounded that badly... just from me being an idiot and
> applying torque with the allen socket not fully seated and at a slight
> angle. Will definitely use a ball head next time!
I don't like the ball head idea much, but only because the
tool is applying the full torque to a lesser
Thanks for all the great advice guys!! I particularly like using the
slightly larger SAE allens and the torx bits.
They aren't rounded that badly... just from me being an idiot and
applying torque with the allen socket not fully seated and at a slight
angle. Will definitely use a ball head ne
> Are there any tips/tricks to getting the intake manifold off of an
> OM603? I've managed to strip the hex heads on the top of #1 and the
> top
Make sure (next time) that you clean the hole thoroughly and tap the
bit in good with a hammer. I've also heard that putting a bit of grit
on the bit
Sometimes it helps to find the smallest torx bit that won't go in the
hex hole and drive it in with a hammer. Cuts and grabs better than a
hex wrench.
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The bolts on one of mine were almost loose
the bolts on another were tight, but came loose.
The bolts on the third needed the cold chisel/ fire wrench/ impact
wrench with a big hammer treatment.
I have not tried the 4th 603 yet.
Joe's method is one I have used lots of times, but not on the intake
Only a few stripped bolt heads, John? That's nothing. I had to use a
hammer & cold chisel to start fully half the bolts when I first
removed the intake from the old rust belt albatross. Bit of a pita
but doable & beats waiting a week for a special order. Had no such
troubles when I replaced the
If you have already stripped the allen sockets, try taking a 1/4"
allen 3/8 drive socket and grind a taper on the 6 faces. Just a few
thousandths on each face. Pound it in with a hammer and a long drift
pin or extension. Get a hammer driven impact driver and put a long
extension between it a
Are there any tips/tricks to getting the intake manifold off of an
OM603? I've managed to strip the hex heads on the top of #1 and the top
of #6 (only stripped one hex bolt before this... sigh). There are also
two of the bottom bolts somewhere in the middle I can't seem to get to.
Thanks!
Jo
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