Epoxy putty alone should seal it well enough around
the loose joint since there won't be any stresses on it.
I would run a heavy bead of epoxy putty around the
loose joint.
A 2" plastic or metal cap part filled with epoxy putty
and pushed down over the end of the pipe should
seal that end as well.
What do you need to know? If they are not leaking, leave them alone.
If you need to cut into them, use a rubber boot to connect to plastic
or whatever. AFIK, that is legal in most jurisdictions.
The next problem in our kitchen remodel relates to an old washing machine
drain pipe that I want
Point taken, however, normally the joint is slightly above the floor
surface, which should be enough room to make the in place repair... [long
distance Exray set to high power]
Please bring the problem closer to the computer so I can see it better...
:)))
Grant..
AZ
On Sat, Oct 1, 2011 at 8:38 A
A torch and concrete don't mix; concrete will explode.
--
Max,
Charleston SC
G Mann wrote:
>I've been following this thread for a bit and trying to read between
>the
>lines to figure exactly where you have a problem. I "think" the issue
>you
>have is the pipe joint at the floor slab is leakin
"IIRC those type of joints were poured with molten lead."
Correct. In the old days before EPA and the discovery that lead was a deadly
substance one of the duties of a plumbers apprentice was to run the lead
pot which kept a supply of hot lead handy to "seal pipe joints"... a the
good old day
If you just want to plug the pipe, pull everything out and get a rubber
expansion plug from the hardware store to plug the end sticking out of
the floor.
Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
T
1 word: sawzall
Then get a rubber cap with a clamp and be done with it.
--R
On 10/1/11 10:51 AM, Craig wrote:
On Sat, 1 Oct 2011 04:38:34 -0700 Jim Cathey
wrote:
I want to cap off the washing machine drain, since it will no longer
be used, before I seal the wall back up. I was planning on r
On Sat, 1 Oct 2011 04:38:34 -0700 Jim Cathey
wrote:
> > I want to cap off the washing machine drain, since it will no longer
> > be used, before I seal the wall back up. I was planning on removing
> > the top
> > 10" piece and replacing it with a NPT threaded plug.
>
> Sounds good to me, if the
I didn't catch the loose joint part.duh. For fire protection while
heating the cast joints simply soak some old towels in water and place them
along the wall as a barrier. Careful not to use enough water to damage
drywall and such.
I think the biggest problem is going to be getting it hot en
vanized pipe up to the lead pipe.
>
> Dan
>
>
>
>
> From: G Mann
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Sent: Saturday, October 1, 2011 9:37 AM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Cast Iron/Lead Plumbing Joints
>
> I've been following this thread f
moving all of the galvanized pipe up to the lead pipe.
Dan
From: G Mann
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Sent: Saturday, October 1, 2011 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: Cast Iron/Lead Plumbing Joints
I've been following this thread for a bit and trying to r
I've been following this thread for a bit and trying to read between the
lines to figure exactly where you have a problem. I "think" the issue you
have is the pipe joint at the floor slab is leaking? Otherwise you could
cap it all off and close the wall and be content?
On the off chance my long
Less work is better to me in a case like this one. Cap off the top of the
pipe with a bit of plumbers putty so no sewer gasses or moisture can
backflow into the wall, cover it up and forget it.
Another way to look at it is that lead is sort of like asbestos, if you
leave it alone, it won't hurt y
I want to cap off the washing machine drain, since it will no longer be
used, before I seal the wall back up. I was planning on removing the
top
10" piece and replacing it with a NPT threaded plug.
Sounds good to me, if the big joint isn't leaking.
It sounds like I should remove all of the g
Dan Penoff wrote:
Plus they have the "magic boxes." Those who use Ace or True Value will know
what I am talking about...
You mean the drawers full of hardware items, with prices on each compartment
like "15 cents each", when the big box store would sell you a package of four
for $2.99?
Mi
Good point. I have an Ace Hardware close by that I regularly patronize even
though I am less than four miles from both of the big box home improvement
stores.
I pay more at Ace, but they almost always have what I need, and all the retired
dudes that work there are former tradesmen and know thei
> > On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 22:44:38 -0400 Dan Penoff
> > I would consider suggesting that you try a big box store
> > like Home Despot, but it's a crapshoot as far as the advice
> > you might get.
> Craig wrote:
>
> They are also in Santa Fe, but we do have a Do It Best
> hardware store here in Los
On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 23:28:58 -0400 Allan Streib
wrote:
> Craig writes:
>
> > They are also in Santa Fe, but we do have a Do It Best hardware store
> > here in Los Alamos! Yeah, I know, I'll start planning a trip to Santa
> > Fe.
>
> Sometimes those local stores have more than you realize, and
Craig writes:
> They are also in Santa Fe, but we do have a Do It Best hardware store
> here in Los Alamos! Yeah, I know, I'll start planning a trip to Santa
> Fe.
Sometimes those local stores have more than you realize, and also
sometimes the employees actually know what they are talking about.
On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 22:44:38 -0400 Dan Penoff wrote:
> Go to a commercial plumbing supply house with pictures and a diagram.
>
> There are all sorts of transitions and adapters for connecting up to
> cast iron pipe.
Thank you for the info. That will mean an hour drive to Santa Fe.
> I would c
On Fri, 30 Sep 2011 21:28:13 -0400 Max Dillon
wrote:
> I saw this on "this old house". Use a hammer to break up and remove
> the cast joint, replace if needed with modern material. Far
> faster/cheaper than trying to save the cast piece.
Actually, the cast piece is in the slab, with the "open"
Go to a commercial plumbing supply house with pictures and a diagram.
There are all sorts of transitions and adapters for connecting up to cast iron
pipe.
I would consider suggesting that you try a big box store like Home Despot, but
it's a crapshoot as far as the advice you might get.
Dan
Se
Rich Thomas writes:
> When they did them, they pounded some oakum in the joint then poured
> hot lead over it to seal it up. I think there is some sort of
> replacement for that now, probably some sort of epoxy or RTV kind of
> stuff or something.
Yeah I had to fix one upon complaint of a home i
When they did them, they pounded some oakum in the joint then poured hot
lead over it to seal it up. I think there is some sort of replacement
for that now, probably some sort of epoxy or RTV kind of stuff or
something. I did a PVC to cast iron joint in my old Victorian when I
upgraded the plu
I saw this on "this old house". Use a hammer to break up and remove the cast
joint, replace if needed with modern material. Far faster/cheaper than trying
to save the cast piece.
--
Max,
Charleston SC
Craig wrote:
>The next problem in our kitchen remodel relates to an old washing
>machine
The next problem in our kitchen remodel relates to an old washing machine
drain pipe that I want to remove. It is a short run of 2" galvanized pipe
and some 45 degree joints that goes into what is apparently an
old-fashioned, cast iron/lead plumbing joint.
In trying to remove the short, upper sect
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