All the external stuff has been removed. There is no sail switch, as this is
a pool heater, but there are pressure and high temp cutout switches, again,
which have been jumpered out.
I'm gonna tear into the thing again tonight. I've worked on electrical
controls for years, so this part
I figured this out
Looks like the valve itself is good, it's the controls
that are funky.
I jumpered from the thermocouple to the main valve and
it opened and the burners fired off. Yahoo!
Now I have to dig through the control circuits. What
a PITA, as there is a little black box along
In a message dated 5/6/2008 12:35:08 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I figured this out
Looks like the valve itself is good, it's the controls
that are funky.
I jumpered from the thermocouple to the main valve and
it opened and the burners fired off.
I've got experience with gas systems, but not with
standing pilot millivolt valves.
I've got a spa heater that's giving me fits. Pilot
stays lit, meaning that the generator (thermocouple)
is working fine, but the main valve won't open when
the control circuits are closed.
Other than assuming
Those gas solenoid valves are problematic. I had to replace a couple on
a dryer, and my downstairs furnace currently has a bad one I just have
not dealt with. You can see if the solenoid is getting energized with
your meter (just hook it up across the wires-- check them too for
continuity --
In my limited experience, that is a bad gas valve. Given a humid
climate, it is probably just corroded stuck inside. Unfortunately if
you try to fix it, and anyone knows, you can have a huge liability
problem. ... UNless you have had a repair training class by the
manufacturer (slim to
Its been a while, but IIRC, a water pressure signal has to be present for
the main valve to open, otherwise you have a melt down of the heat
exchanger. Hmmm, me thinks there was a tap off the inlet water pipe with a
small copper tube going ???.
Harry
On Mon, May 5, 2008 at 6:19 PM, LWB250
