Again, good to hear!
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On Jan 13, 2013, at 10:22 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The crank sprocket would last at least 500k in an OM621. They will last
> longer in 616/617. You will wear out 2-3 crank sprockets before you will
> wear out the cam and timing s
Can it be replaced later without breaking the chain apart?
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On Jan 13, 2013, at 9:48 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
> Chain and sprocket wear together, but the socket wears much more slowly.
> Take a look while you're there, easy to replace later if needed. Keep in
> mind that if
The crank sprocket would last at least 500k in an OM621. They will
last longer in 616/617. You will wear out 2-3 crank sprockets before
you will wear out the cam and timing sprockets. I'd check cam and
timing sprockets at a million miles.
Chain and sprocket wear together, but the socket w
Chain and sprocket wear together, but the socket wears much more slowly. Take
a look while you're there, easy to replace later if needed. Keep in mind that
if this cam sprocket is worn, so will the IP timer sprocket and the crank
sprocket. Those are not so easy to replace.
--
Max Dillon
Char
What about cam sprocket? What's likelihood of wear on that at 250K miles?
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Zero
Never heard of one needing to be replaced.
I have replaced one crank sprocket, but it has twice the engagement,
and more torque on it.
___
http://www.okie
What about cam sprocket? What's likelihood of wear on that at 250K miles?
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On Jan 12, 2013, at 9:04 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> The lower rails in the block don't wear much. At 250k the banana rail is a
> tossup. I'd order a new one, and not feel bad if I
The lower rails in the block don't wear much. At 250k the banana
rail is a tossup. I'd order a new one, and not feel bad if I didn't
use it. I have some extra rails I didn't use on the M116. Too hard
to get to in the block, and on inspection, not worn badly; so I
didn't use them. On the
Ok good to know. I wont bother with lower rails then. To change the banana
rail, it looks like the cam sprocket has to be removed. Should I just order a
new one or use old? Not sure about wear. Car has around 250K miles.
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On Jan 12, 2013, at 6:27 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gma
Generally, you don't change the rails in the block unless you have
the block out to work on it. You can change the banana rail with the
head on, but the others...forget about it. If the engine had 400k
or 500k miles on it, that'd be a different story. at under 250k
there should be no rea
Well if it is like the 300D you just need to remove the pump from the
front of the block, undoing 6 or 8 cap screws (a wobble socket extender
works well) then take it off. Make sure everything is clean so no crap
falls in the hole. Putting it back on it helps to rotate the engine so
the cam i
240D
On Sat, Jan 12, 2013 at 5:10 PM, Rich Thomas
wrote:
> what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo the
> cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way.
>
> --R
>
> On 1/11/13 6:35 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
>>
>> So planning ahead on my timin
what kind of car is it? On the TD and the SD you basically just undo
the cap screws holding it on, after you get some stuff out of the way.
--R
On 1/11/13 6:35 PM, dsereta...@yahoo.com wrote:
So planning ahead on my timing chain replacement, I'm wondering what is
involved removing the vacuum
So planning ahead on my timing chain replacement, I'm wondering what is
involved removing the vacuum pump. The shop manual (BBB) states that removing
the pump is necessary to replace the lower two slide rails but I can't find the
procedure for its removal in the manual. Also, these rails are dow
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