Yes - if you use a torch to heat the fittings, you must empty the line of
brake fluid and leave it open so that heated gasses can escape without an
explosion, and be ready for the rubber line to catch fire (hint - cut off
as much of the rubber line as you can).
-
Max
Charleston SC
On
Fred nailed it.
You can't unscrew the flare nut from the fitting and break it loose from the
line at the same time, you'll twist the line that way.
So unscrew the fitting from the nut instead of unscrewing the nut from the
fitting.
Mitch.
> On October 15, 2018 at 11:45 PM Frederick Moir via Me
Rust can't survive red heat. Great care is required.
-- Jim
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Karl sez:
>Heat is an option I had not considered. Thanks >for that idea.
You're welcome. If you think about it, brake components (rubber bits in the
calipers and such) are designed to withstand temperatures in excess of 300
degrees Fahrenheit. I have successfully removed frozen bleeders f
Karl.
The method that works for me is to flatten out the hard line retaining clip
at the junction of the metal and rubber junction bracket.
Pull down a little on the rubber hose to free the hose fitting and unscrew
the hose junction from the hard line, whilst holding the flare nut immobile.
Blue fl
Heat is an option I had not considered. Thanks for that idea. I have a
little creme brulee torch that might work well. I usually use it for heat
shrinking wire ends.
I think the flare nut is seized to the brake line also, so maybe it will
let loose with some heat also.
I am changing all the fluid
Okay. One thing at a time.
Order and replace vent caps. Master cylinder leak solved. You may also want to
replace the reservoir to MC grommet also. Pressure bleed away.
Brake hose to steel line? Replacing hose?
Mapp gas torch is your friend. Remember, rubber is flammable, as is brake
fluid.
I'd try a gravity bleed. Slow, but it should get the job done.
You could also get a long hose, attach to bleed bolt on caliper, run the other
end to the reservoir, and then pump the brake pedal. This circulates the fluid
and gets all the air out. If you're not trying to change the fluid, this
>
> Anyone have a foolproof method for not twisting the steel line off trying
> to get the flare fitting out of the end of the rubber line at the bracket?
> This is on my 124 wagon. I put some 500e front calipers and rotors on it
> and wanted to change the lines as the fronts are shot, but holy Tol
