well said Fred.
On Thu, Aug 18, 2022, 12:20 PM Frederick Moir via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> When changing customer's engine oil, they were told that the dirtiest quart
> of oil was in the filter.
> Don't cheap out. As they used to say "Pay me now, or pay me later"
> Fred.
> I hav
When changing customer's engine oil, they were told that the dirtiest quart
of oil was in the filter.
Don't cheap out. As they used to say "Pay me now, or pay me later"
Fred.
I have oil (diesel) in my blood! And you can see where it gets in!
On Thu, Aug 18, 2022 at 9:54 AM Curt Raymond via Mercede
I've never had an oil related failure on a large engine (once on a lawnmower
maybe) so I don't worry about it too much. The farm tractors get changed once
every 2 years but we're talking less than 100 hours of run time, synthetic 5w40
in the '98 Ford and 15w40 diesel oil in the 1952 Farmall. Tha
I change my oil and filter every 12 months regardless of miles. Keeps the
acids, etc. at bay.
On Wed, Aug 17, 2022 at 3:25 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> I would, simply because 1.) it’s cheap; and 2.) the filter could be
> breaking down from age, especially if i
I would, simply because 1.) it’s cheap; and 2.) the filter could be breaking
down from age, especially if it’s one that uses glue to hold the pleated paper
together like the fleece filters in the M112.
-D
> On Aug 17, 2022, at 4:21 PM, greg via Mercedes wrote:
>
> I put only a few K miles on
I put only a few K miles on between changes. IIRC back in the day the
advise was to change filters every other oil change.
Is it necessary to change an oil filter by time rather than mileage?
Greg
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
To search list archives http://w
Wix makes very nice oil filters, but if you use them you must obtain a
new o-ring seal from somewhere else -- the one included in the box
never fits and I've cut nearly every one I tried to use.
Peter
I concur with the assessment of the o-ring...never could get the new one to
seal so I just re-us
Hey guys
A friend of mine found this link:
http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilterstudy/
oilfilterstudy.html#measure
Not too sure how current the info is, but the Wix filters did pass
this guy's test
Anybody have any updated info, please share it with the rest of
us...
Wix have wound cord bypass filters instead of a can stuffed with gin
trash, which is the actual specification.
I'm happy with them, and I can get them at the local parts store.
I would be interested to see what the recommendations were, though.
Peter
Hi all,
I've lost the link, but there was someone who tore oil filters apart,
did analysis on all of them and then rated them Anybody got that
link?
IIRC, only Mann, Knecht, and one other were recommended for use in
our MB's.. and again, based on my not always accurate memory,
Yup. The center bolt on my is well and truly seized, no point to
wrecking the cover trying to get it loose. Pulling the seal works
great.
Wix makes very nice oil filters, but if you use them you must obtain a
new o-ring seal from somewhere else -- the one included in the box
never fits and
On 9/22/06, Peter Frederick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Unless you have a W124 with a 603 engine, it's easy.
The secret is to remove the rubber trim at the top of the inner
firewall! Takes 10 seconds and gives you WAY more clearance.
Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo
'93 Isuzu Trooper
Peter, the 603 oil filter is easier since you pull the center post out
first and the two nuts on the cover are a snap...
DWS
Peter Frederick wrote:
Be careful to properly fit the filter in, on some models you can
displace the internal seal between the full flow portion and the bypass
portion,
Be careful to properly fit the filter in, on some models you can
displace the internal seal between the full flow portion and the bypass
portion, resulting in low oil pressure.
Unless you have a W124 with a 603 engine, it's easy.
Peter
Yes problem! On our 1980 300D, the oil filter canister lid popped off due
to stripped threads on the securing studs following an oil change. We knew
this because the car created a huge oil slick as it was being driven away
from the shop lift. The mechanic refilled with new oil and was able to
r
David Brodbeck wrote:
> Thread the cover/stem assembly into the new filter and bolt
> it down.
Actually, that was a poor choice of words. I meant "thread" in the
sense of "threading a needle," not "thread" in the sense of "twist it
like a screw."
Lee Einer wrote:
> The Official CD is not terribly helpful. It indicates that I am to tighten the
> two fastening nuts on the filter to 20-25 NM. What is that in foot-pounds?
This link will help you out:
http://www.gordonengland.co.uk/conversion/torque.htm
I scribbled the ft-lb values in the margi
2 actually. Part number 015 997 94 48.
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Potter, Tom E
Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 1:14 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Change
There is an O-ring around
List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Filter Change
14.75-18.43 ft lbs, or 177-221 in lbs
When you get the lid off, everything will be pretty self explanatory
-Robert
Lee Einer wrote:
> The Benz (1980 300CD)is due for an oil change. Happy to see the filter
is
> accessible from the top of the eng
14.75-18.43 ft lbs, or 177-221 in lbs
When you get the lid off, everything will be pretty self explanatory
-Robert
Lee Einer wrote:
The Benz (1980 300CD)is due for an oil change. Happy to see the filter is
accessible from the top of the engine (never done my own change on this beast
be
The Benz (1980 300CD)is due for an oil change. Happy to see the filter is
accessible from the top of the engine (never done my own change on this beast
before.) Plan to use Wilton's $2 supersucker to drain the oil.
The Official CD is not terribly helpful. It indicates that I am to tighten the
two
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