Dwight, et al.
Nope! Nothing left but memories.
I had to buy three whole boxes of fuse replacement parts for my 170v,
and, being a starving Cpl., grumbled at the price.
Happy Days of Yore!
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Diesel preferred.
At 08:14 AM 8/15/2009, you wrote:
What a good idea-before the UK adop
.
Wickford, RI
-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Frederick W Moir
Sent: Friday, August 14, 2009 10:06 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.
Grretings and Saluta
> tyler wrote:
> I like to coat the ends in di-electric grease, which seems to
> eliminate corrosion issues permanently.
Doesn't have to be di-electric grease. Wheel bearing grease,
white grease, whatever. The grease keeps the air away so
there's no oxidation. The metals make enough contact for
Grretings and Salutations, All.
In the U.K. in the '60's you could, indeed, get a box of metal form
fuses to replace the burned through part on the ceramic body. Long
gone now, of course. Just like the early days, a fuse "kit" was a
card with several gauges of wire, a glass tube, some metal en
Thanks, Manfred. Gainesville is out of my range for now but I did find one
for $29.99 on the Harbor Freight website. I think that might have been the
one several members bought.
Gerry
--
From: "MG"
Gerry,
The Harbor Freight store in Gainesville has one on
ri, 14 Aug 2009 12:00:44 -0400
From: "archer"
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dang. It was one of the 'good' fuses.
P.S. What's a brand/source for an infrared thermometer? Flukes are
available for around $100 but I seem to remember a discussion
about cheaper
ones t
I've been known to replace them with a strip of aluminum foil in an
"emergency." The strip needs to be wider to blow at the same level of
current draw, since the foil is so thin. Even better is just taking a
handful of spares from a junkyard.
I like to coat the ends in di-electric grease, whic
Since the porcelain bodies of the fuse are still good, it would seem
that the fusible metal strips would be available someplace without
buying the whole fuse?
No.
-- Jim
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
To search l
He discovered it was a fuse that had corroded most of the contact point,
so it still showed continuity and power on testing, but being a 30 amp
with all the turn signals, gauges and brakes on it the bad spots stopped
enough of the power that they didn't work, though it tested good.
---
Mitch Haley wrote:
Jim Cathey wrote:
In such cases I like to use a Dremel wire brush to clean
up the contacts in the fuse block too.
A wire brush on a bench grinder allows you to clean 50 of them in a few
minutes.
The bench grinder was for wholesale cleaning of fuses. (which might be safer
Jim Cathey wrote:
In such cases I like to use a Dremel wire brush to clean
up the contacts in the fuse block too.
A wire brush on a bench grinder allows you to clean 50 of them in a few minutes.
When testing, sometimes it's better to voltmeter across the terminals. If you
get more than a ten
He discovered it was a fuse that had corroded most of the contact
point, so it still showed continuity and power on testing, but being a
30
amp with all the turn signals, gauges and brakes on it the bad spots
stopped
enough of the power that they didn't work, though it tested good.
In such ca
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