The Upper Peninsula of Michigan. Roughly 600 miles according to google
maps:
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=d&source=s_d&saddr=Iron+Mountain,+MI&daddr=louisville,+ky&hl=en&geocode=&mra=ls&sll=45.825453,-88.063262&sspn=0.096295,0.154324&ie=UTF8&z=6
-Kyle KK
On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 6:32 PM, steven cl
Good advice. I'll order the Battlax BT-021.
On Jul 15, 3:52 pm, wrenchman wrote:
> follow aldos advise and go with the battlax good tires for curves and
> stiff enough to last a few miles tooanother peice of advice, when
> you get them mounted, call around and find a place that will fill the
Kyle where do you live I forgot? How far are you from louisville, KY? I would
like to have anther 550 to build a chopper out of. Derby
--- On Mon, 7/13/09, Kyle K.K. wrote:
From: Kyle K.K.
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: I've got a couple questions
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Date:
I wish I had read the PS part first, OUCH!
On 7/15/09, Gene Henry wrote:
> Electrosport Rectifier $89.96 from Bike Bandit.
> http://www.bikebandit.com/rectifiers-regulators/c/a669901?mg=974&t=1
> - Original Message -
> From: DANNY DOLAN
> To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
>
I think he's talking about the downward facing vent for the backside
of the diaphragm? I remember my 650 had a T in the vacuum line with a
branch going to both sides courtesy of the previous owner.
On 7/15/09, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
> Please clarify this "main-little one" stuff. The syringe take
while the tools in the OEM kit aren't junk, exactly, they are about the least
expensive Honda could buy that would do the tasks you are most likiely to do.
That kit is definitely NOT worth $10.00, much less $40!!
You can get a good set Stanley (makers of Proto tools) at Wally World for about
$1
---and brown the roast in the pan/pot?
Stanley
From: surfswab
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 12:57:25 PM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Tool kit
No, you don't need a centerstand to do an oil change. But I'd
consider one f
just checked out the pics, clean looking old bike keep us posted on
it's progress
eric
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hey buddy,
your starter is probably the culprit here, as with all electric
motors, time and heat are their worst enemies, and on a 27 year old
bike, the starter has seen it's share of both.
remove the starter and clean both contact points and also bench test
it cold, then put it in your oven and
you aint special, he was checkin out the sexy bike and wondering why
she was with a "human"
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follow aldos advise and go with the battlax good tires for curves and
stiff enough to last a few miles tooanother peice of advice, when
you get them mounted, call around and find a place that will fill them
with nitrogen instead of air.
the nitrogen doesn't expand with heat or contract with
You have excellent taste. K & N is a premium quality product.
I checked with their customer service people. The more expensive one
is chrome, the other black. That, and fact the black one appears to
be dome-shaped and the chrome one flat, seems only difference. They
are physically the same si
Wow that is a awesome story. I would of loved to of been there.
On Jul 14, 10:26 pm, Dennis Hammerl wrote:
> It happens to all of us. I did a service on a 750 and the guy went to
> Atlantic City for the weekend. Monday, his wife calls me to give me a
> heads-up. His bike wouldn't start and he
Ok so last week I took the hawk on a 3 day trip and on the third day
it started raining. The bike was riding in the rain for about 3
hours. Now I'm not much mechanically inclined past changing my oil
and winterizing my bike.
So when I downshift I hear a gurgling noise coming from the engine/
ca
Please clarify this "main-little one" stuff. The syringe takes the place of the
engine. That way you don't have to start the bike. All of this is a static
test.
--- On Wed, 7/15/09, steveday wrote:
From: steveday
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: poor, poor acceleration
To: "Nighthawk Motorcyc
surfswab,
thanks a lot for taking the time (as usual) to shared your knowledge with
us. I think the current oil filter is the one with stamped ridges around the
edges. Now in this respect, what is your feeling about the K&N oil filter? I
saw it in Bike Bandit (
http://www.bikebandit.com/product/16
I might try to mount my own tires on a bicycle but unless I had previously
mounted motorcycle tires professionally, I would never try it myself. Just
WAY too many ways for things to go wrong, IMHO.
Dennis G.
- Seattle - '85 & '86 CB700SC
-Original Message-
From: nighthawk_lovers@goog
It should be a Big Improvement and I could Imagine about being
Squirrely. Hey,Good Luck. I was going to try to Mount my New Tires
Myself this Weekend. Steve
On Jul 15, 11:38 am, pa_s...@verizon.net wrote:
> I'm going to reseal my forks this weekend. That should greatly
No, you don't need a centerstand to do an oil change. But I'd
consider one for future purchase, if I were you. They are worth their
weight in gold when it comes to doing any kind of work on the rear of
the bike (cleaning tire/rim, oiling the chain, removing the rear
wheel, etc). Not that expens
Electrosport Rectifier $89.96 from Bike Bandit.
http://www.bikebandit.com/rectifiers-regulators/c/a669901?mg=974&t=1
- Original Message -
From: DANNY DOLAN
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, July 15, 2009 11:31 AM
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: 82 650SC S
hey it could be the battery problem but usally when you have a problem with
a bike starting hot after its run and it starts good cold its usally
rectifier or points but usally rectifier when they go bad they get hot bike
doesnt want run start or dies going down the road after running sometimes
afte
Dear Dad,
I have the same problem with my "83 650. It hasn't "not started" as
yet but sometimes I need to roll start it. One thing that seems to
help mine is to rev the engine before shutting it down and to shut it
down during the high peak of the rev. This would suggest the vapor
lock theory
Battery tenders come with a set of leads that you permanently attach and
then you just place the pigtail in a convenient place.
On Tue, Jul 14, 2009 at 1:12 PM, New England Dad wrote:
>
> Hello to all. I'm a long time reader, new writer. I've benefited
> greatly from this site. I have an 82 C
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I have mine set at the Highest Setting too and still feels Soft. Mine
never bottomed out as you say yours do and I weigh 225 Lbs and even
after Disassembling them and replacing the Bushings and Stops they
still don't. I've also Replaced the Old Fork Springs with New ones by
Progressive that I got
Thanks for the replies, it's good to know and have confirmed, prior to
that you just don't know what to expect sometimes, this will be the
first bike I really work on, so not knowing Honda very well on old
products can make things a little more "interesting"!
I started digging into it to do clean
Hey Dennis, thanks for putting your mind to this!
Now, do I use the sysringe on the main valve or the little one... the
main one, right? What's the little one for?
Steve
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Had the same problem it was the starter clean starer every thing was fine
Kyle Munz wrote:
> But the problem I'm having doesn't seem to be coil or CDI related. When cold
> push the button and vroom! away she goes. When hot, press the button and it
> doesn't even want to turn over. Wait a
I bought them on e-bay because the original's were shotJul 15, 2009 02:24:48 AM, nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com wrote:Have you Adjusted your Shock Preload? The Suspension on the 550Nighthawk wasn't the Great to begin with. The Factory Shocks on the550 Nighthawk are VHD and have Five Preload
Well, right now my interest is to have all that I need to do the oil change.
I got the Honda Service Manual, it arrived today. But I don't see any clear
explanation how to do this task. I think I need the Honda Common service
manual. Do I also need a center stand for my bike in order to the oil
cha
The original tool kit is just a bare minimum set and not very good
quality. It's designed for breakdowns on the road. It's main
advantage is that it tucks away easily under your seat and has most of
the wrench sizes to fit nuts and bolts on your bike.
It does have one special tool in it that's
Thanks people! I don't really about having the original tool kit for this
bike, I just thought there could be some particular tools you couldn't get
on the store.
Thanks again... Javier.
On Wed, Jul 15, 2009 at 12:37 AM, Creative Residential Designs <
finderskeep...@qwest.net> wrote:
> All I s
I had a similar problem with a V45 Sabre years ago, It ended up being "Vapor
Lock". Check the gas cap to make sure vent hole isn't pluggedup. Possible
solutions include opening the gas cap for a few minutes before re-starting the
bike or switching brand of gasoline. Extreme measure would be to
But the problem I'm having doesn't seem to be coil or CDI related. When cold
push the button and vroom! away she goes. When hot, press the button and it
doesn't even want to turn over. Wait a second and press it again and it
makes about half a turn and fires up. Sounds more like battery and/or
star
Hi To all, I have the same problem with CB650 1983.Please any body with
a solution ???
On 7/14/09, New England Dad wrote:
>
>
> Hello to all. I'm a long time reader, new writer. I've benefited
> greatly from this site. I have an 82 CB650SC NH, 21,000 miles. I’ve
> owned it 3 year
I already proposed a reason to such a behaviour. The electolytic capacitors
in the cdi loose their capacity when getting old. When hot, they loose a
little more. The bike thus doesn't start any more, until the cdi cools. And
when cold, it's nearly impossible to adjust perfectly the idle engine
Have you Adjusted your Shock Preload? The Suspension on the 550
Nighthawk wasn't the Great to begin with. The Factory Shocks on the
550 Nighthawk are VHD and have Five Preload Settings. Mine were not
Leaking either, so I removed mine and Paid the Local Shop here $ 5.00
a Shock to Compress and D
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