Of course I checked the fuses first thing and all were good, so I moved on
from that. But the headlight does have its own fuse according to the wiring
diagram, and if the connectors to the fuse got touchy, that would do it.
I'll check that, and thanks! (Fuses are under the seat on 90's models.)
Ok I got a chance to look at the wiring diagram. This is a basic circuit.
Power comes out of the fuse box over a Black/Red wire to the right hand
pod. It then goes through the starter button which makes it an open circuit
when pressed. Power comes ou5 of the right pod over a Blue/White wire to
the
In the past, on my '93, a headlight out on both high and low beam settings
was a result of starter switch corrosion. That switch breaks contact for
that circuit when engaged, to reduce the load on the battery during
starting. However, if you have voltage at the headlight switch supply
without the l
Hello, 3 hours seems fine to me. Remove tank, remove the coils, remove the
valve cover, loose the cams sprockets, remove the old tensioner, install
the new tensioner, install the chain over cam sprockets, timing the bike,
clean the gasket and valve cover, apply some sealant to them, install the
Actually since it seems to be a recurring problem, I would clean the
contacts in the starter button, as well as the Hi/Low switch and check the
connector on the Blue/White wire that goes between the control pods.
Possibly someone used it as a tap wire for a farkel. Other than a bad left
pod, a fark
+1 After looking at the manual Honda Hornet is correct, that sucker is
buried in the head. It is a job that can be done at home, but this is
beyond normal maintenance. If you mess up the cam timing, you will damage
the motor.
On Tue, Mar 17, 2015 at 11:09 AM, Honda Hornet wrote:
> Hello, 3 hours
I went to see the '84 650 this morning, it had a few plastic tarps on it, not
too much snow on it. Paint and chrome are in very good shape. The forks have
some light rust sprinkles that are easily wiped off, fuel tank looks rust free.
The front wheel was locked due to the calipers being seized,
Gunk and corrosion will be seizing the calipers. You will need to take the
system apart and clean, probably Same with the clutch. Carbs will probably need
to be removed and cleaned before it will start. Bought a 1983 650 in the fall
in worse shape for $100, Graham
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 17
+1 Graham knows what he's talking about. Locked up calipers are pretty
common on a bike that has been sitting. Even if they weren't locked up I'd
recommend taking them apart along with the master cylinder, as they are
sure to be full of snot, and the master cylinder return port is probably
clogged.
Thanks for the replies everybody.
I think I'm going to pass this one over to the mechanic. I have done clutch
rebuilds, brakes rebuilds, etc but this particular repair seems a little
more involved.
I plan to ride this bike into the ground so I'm guessing the investment is
worth it in the long
I finally found the old Craig's list pictures. I sold this 450Custom back
in May 2013, but my wife put an incredible number of miles on it before
getting a real bike. (Sorry guys, this one would not handle wind at highway
speeds.)
I hope it gives you some ideas, or hope at least. I cranked out t
> Allen and Kurt, as usual thanks for your time and knowledge. The starter
> switch, which kills the headlight is an idea I hadn't thought of. I'd had
> some trouble with the starter button sticking and staying engaged even
> after the engine had started. I pulled it back out manually until I
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