Maybe, but they're few and far between.
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On Monday, June 17, 2013 8:15:55 PM UTC-5, melodyc...@comcast.net wrote:
>
> I am 18, a girl, and this is my very first bike. I am completely
> clueless...
Congratulations, on getting the very rare CB550SC.
I also, and a few others on this list also have these.
>
> I just bought a 83 Honda n
Never thought of searching car parts, a friend owns a scrap yard.
Thanks, Dave
On 18 September 2012 21:01, Hawaii Sean wrote:
> If you have an idea of what it looks like just go to the biggest junk yard
> you can find. I'd bet you'll be able to find something really close in a
> car. I once lo
If you have an idea of what it looks like just go to the biggest junk yard
you can find. I'd bet you'll be able to find something really close in a
car. I once lost the little plastic button covering the trip re-set in a
80's Honda. I took the same type of button off of a 70's Mercury Carpi a
Been there, I was hoping one of the members of the group might have one.
Just trying to keep the bike in good condition.
Dave
On 18 September 2012 01:50, surfswab wrote:
> Ebay. Maybe. If you're persistent in searching. And not in a hurry.
>
> On Sep 17, 8:41 pm, Dave duChene wrote:
> > 1984
e, but try looking in a
> full service hardware store. They have all kinds of bumpers, caps, etc., and
> might have something that would work.
>
> From: surfswab
> Sent: Monday, September 17, 2012 11:50 PM
> To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
> Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Ne
: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Need help finding a part
Ebay. Maybe. If you're persistent in searching. And not in a hurry.
On Sep 17, 8:41 pm, Dave duChene wrote:
> 1984 Highthawk 750S
> I need the little rubber boot that fits over the trip reset button.
> Honda doesn't even list
Ebay. Maybe. If you're persistent in searching. And not in a hurry.
On Sep 17, 8:41 pm, Dave duChene wrote:
> 1984 Highthawk 750S
> I need the little rubber boot that fits over the trip reset button.
> Honda doesn't even list it as a part,
> any ideas appreciated.
> Dave
>
> --
> If you forwar
turday, August 18, 2012 12:50 PM
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Need help!
Brake fluid breaks down over time, and changes it's hydraulic capabilities.
It can even become chunky if it is old enough. Also when it is old it allows
water to condense i
2:50 PM
To: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Need help!
Brake fluid breaks down over time, and changes it's hydraulic capabilities.
It can even become chunky if it is old enough. Also when it is old it allows
water to condense in the lines. If the bubble on th
awk_lovers@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Need help!
I don't know if that user is still on board, but we'll help as best we can.
Did you apply the brakes before they locked up, or did they engage on their
own? How do your brake hoses look?
You may want to try th
Yes. Check brake fluid. A friend of mine noticed his street triple having a
"woody" feel when braking. He flushed his brake fluid lines etc & fixed the
problem. So I did the same with my '92 750 nh. The fluid was brownish color.
New is clear. Also check your anchor pins. They could be worn & cau
I don't know if that user is still on board, but we'll help as best we can.
Did you apply the brakes before they locked up, or did they engage on their
own? How do your brake hoses look?
You may want to try this: open your master cylinder reservoir and make sure
it's CLEAN. Take the old fluid out,
I know how old this post is, but I have the same exact bike and got in the
SAME situationdropped the bike and everything. Weirdest part is after
letting it sit for 10 -15 everything's working fine(even after the drop).
Any chance you're still part of this group? Any resolution to this?
On
Thanks for the suggestions. There was probably an easier and smarter way
to do it but I ended up removing two bottom bolts from the oil pan that
were sticking out, the drive chain cover, and the top end cover. The carbs
were already removed. That gave us enough clearance to weasel it in prett
I find laying the engine on side then have a friend help lay the frame over
the engine the easiest. Then bolt in the top and stand up and bolt in the
other side.
>
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I'd suggest a couple ratchet straps secured to something solid, like
an overhead beam.
Rig the straps in such a way that one of them threads thru the frame
opening while the other supports the weight, then manuever the engine
into the opening one ratchet click at a time.
You'll probly have to rem
I agree with Gram. If you would wiggle the key and it would work, and now it
doesn't.. Has to be the ignition switch.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 6, 2012, at 5:50 PM, Graham Rogers wrote:
> ignition switch
>
> On Jun 6, 2012, at 7:02 PM, H wrote:
>
>> Thank you Graham for prompt response.
>>
Try charging the battery first.
You might have enuf juice to for a light to work, but not enuf to
crank it.
I recommend the Battery Tender brand.
On Jun 6, 7:02 pm, H wrote:
> Thank you Graham for prompt response.
> 11000 miles.
> Everything was working. Got service. Oil Change. after couple mo
ignition switch
On Jun 6, 2012, at 7:02 PM, H wrote:
> Thank you Graham for prompt response.
> 11000 miles.
> Everything was working. Got service. Oil Change. after couple months
> of working about 10 days ago - it started flickering once in a while
> when i would put the key in. At a certain poi
The wires on mine were fine, it was the plug that was damaged. You'll have
to look at yours to see. Just jiggling that plug may be enough. It won't
hurt to disassemble and clean the block and plugs with electrical cleaner
then put it back together with plenty of dielectric grease. Another
possibili
Thank you Graham for prompt response.
11000 miles.
Everything was working. Got service. Oil Change. after couple months
of working about 10 days ago - it started flickering once in a while
when i would put the key in. At a certain point of me putting the key
from locked position to unlock position
Kyle
I am going to look at that today. Do you suggest i just get new wiring
in the back and re do the black/red wirese.
What did you end up doing? maybe the same thing might work for me.
By any chance - are you in chicago?
Thank you very much,
Harishi
Message I sent to Graham on the list:
11
So did we answer you're questions?
I had some free time and took on looking for good deals:
1. Where can find and buy an OEM or after market same specs as OEM
handle bars for the Bike. I'm not sure if these are spec or not but
they seem to be a "standard" handlebar. Basically any 7/8 inch bar
wi
Only the top-ends were different from 550/650Jul 17, 2010 02:32:43 AM, nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com wrote: I have to agree, that engine is toast. The behavior of the oillight would indicate that there are much larger than normal gaps inyour bearings. Simply put, the internal engine wear i
I have to agree, that engine is toast. The behavior of the oil
light would indicate that there are much larger than normal gaps in
your bearings. Simply put, the internal engine wear is such that it
can't hold oil pressure at idle.
You might want to investigate an engine swap. The 550 only
If you part out, please let us all know.
Scott
-Original Message-
From: nighthawk_lovers@googlegroups.com
[mailto:nighthawk_lov...@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of surfswab
Sent: Thursday, July 15, 2010 6:59 PM
To: Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Need help with
And it will probably have to be a parts bike.
The 550 is kind of an odd duck in the Nighthawk lineup. Many of the
parts have been discontinued, and not many interchange with other
model Nighthawks.
Not trying to discourage you, but you might want to consider parting
out what's left of yours to o
That thing will likely need a complete rebuild, or at least a complete
tear down and inspection. I agree with your assessment that some
idiot used way too much silicone and it got loose in the case and
probably blocked off the feed line to that scored cam. Look at the
wear on that sucker, it hasn
No problem, just upload pics so we can see how it looks after you install
it. ;)
-Kyle
-Sent from Willoughby, OH, United States
On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 11:56 AM, Biz Account wrote:
> Thanks Kyle... It was called so many different names.. I just couldn't find
> it. Thanks again for the assistance
Thanks Kyle... It was called so many different names.. I just couldn't
find it. Thanks again for the assistance
Sent from my iPhone
On 12-May-09, at 8:04 AM, Kyle Munz wrote:
> You can get the nosecone at JC Whitney
> http://www.jcwhitney.com/ENGINE-AIR-SCOOP-FOR-JAPANESE-CYCLES/GP_2000246_N_
You can get the nosecone at JC Whitney
http://www.jcwhitney.com/ENGINE-AIR-SCOOP-FOR-JAPANESE-CYCLES/GP_2000246_N_111+1984+200730429+600014385_10111.jcw
-Kyle
On Tue, May 12, 2009 at 10:01 AM, infinitelyevo...@gmail.com <
infinitelyevo...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Does anyone know where I can find
Look in the archives. I posted a method to bleed those. It works.
--- On Thu, 4/2/09, Ron wrote:
From: Ron
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Need help getting my clutch to bleed
To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
Date: Thursday, April 2, 2009, 2:00 PM
Hey All,
I just recently replaced the motor in
I don't know what the issue is, but putting a short tube (like from a fishtank)
and put it over the bleeder to stop air from going back in
Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 15:03:38 -0400
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Need help getting my clutch to bleed
From: kyle...@gmail.com
To: nighthawk_l
One of these are handy. http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?item=PAR_DS-310207
>From my experience, just because you don't see bubbles anymore doesn't mean
it's bled correctly. Keep trying until you feel resistance on the handle and
make sure the master reservoir doesn't run dry. Helps to have two pp
ED]>
Subject: [Nighthawk Lovers] Re: Need help with clutch problem
To: "Nighthawk Motorcycle Lovers!"
Date: Monday, November 3, 2008, 2:00 PM
Thanks everyone. Got it working this past weekend. It was air in the
line. I tried the syringe injection at the slave cylinder, but still
didn&
Thanks everyone. Got it working this past weekend. It was air in the
line. I tried the syringe injection at the slave cylinder, but still
didn't get all the air out. I then did the "jiggle dance" on the
clutch handle while tapping up and down the line. It actually took
twenty minutes of that befor
Yep, I had a shop rag tied around the left grip, I figured that gave me
about 3/4" space.
-Kyle
On Thu, Oct 30, 2008 at 11:40 AM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Kyle,
>
> I too had trouble bleeding the clutch. Clymer's calls for a spacer
> under the handle of 3/4 inch so that the handle does n
Kyle,
I too had trouble bleeding the clutch. Clymer's calls for a spacer
under the handle of 3/4 inch so that the handle does not bottom out.
When I did that, it went much better. It was a real pain.
Wayne
On Oct 30, 7:54 am, Moontoad <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Kyle and Dennis,
> Thanks muc
Kyle and Dennis,
Thanks much for the help - you've given me hope. It makes sense if the
master cylinder had gone bad and I've actually fixed it with the kit,
just didn't get it bled properly. I will attack it again this weekend.
I'll let you know what happens.
Dennis, thanks for the advice and th
Bleeding with a clamp on the slave to limit it's movement is a sound idea...
however, you must open the clamp a small bit and repeat, and repeat, and
repeat. when it's almost at it's travel, install it back into the motor. The
travel of the slave piston is VERY small. That's because the clutch p
I had the exact same problem with mine. I rebuilt the master and slave cyls
with new bits as the old ones were falling apart, and after bleeding it I
still didn't feel much resistance. Turns out that clutchline is a real pain
to bleed. I finally ended up forcing fluid up from the bleeder valve and
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