Ensure that the corrosion in the seal groove bore is removed so the seal
doesn't squeeze the piston too tightly. This was the cause of brake drag on
mine when purchased.
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I took pics when I did my brake system teardown
http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=430
and the rebuild
http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=463
and the sight glass
http://nighthawk.kylemunz.com/?p=654
-Kyle
On Sat, Sep 8, 2018 at 4:36 PM Graham Rogers
wrote:
> I concur ( I think I’ve used the same
I concur ( I think I’ve used the same piece of 400 for 6 years. it’s
about 2000 now)
On Sat, Sep 8, 2018 at 5:17 PM Dave duChêne wrote:
> Good advise, except 400 is much too corse. Use 1500, or even 2000.
> Dave
>
>
> On 8 September 2018 at 18:10, Graham Rogers
> wrote:
>
>> Hi Paul, stuck
Good advise, except 400 is much too corse. Use 1500, or even 2000.
Dave
On 8 September 2018 at 18:10, Graham Rogers
wrote:
> Hi Paul, stuck caliper pistons means pumping out the pistons using the
> pressure from the hand lever. You probably don’t need to replace the
> pistons. Clean out the cal
Hi Paul, stuck caliper pistons means pumping out the pistons using the
pressure from the hand lever. You probably don’t need to replace the
pistons. Clean out the calibers after removing the rubber seals. I have
found they are easy to clean up and use again (the ring seals) but better
to replace th
Hi there. Went to replace the front brake pads on my just-purchased 1983
Nighthawk 650 [36,000 miles] today.
Noticed that there were different brake pads on the right and left, the
left rotor is much smoother than the right, and the right caliper pistons
appear to be stuck. Going to try to
