Bigbolt professors,
I stopped to look at a 42 recently pulled out of a shed and for sale.
It is dual rear wheels on big 5 bolt bud wheels not sure if it is 1,
1.5, or 2 Ton? The ID plate is riveted to the passenger windshield
headliner and will take another look at deciphering. It was a township
I saw the final sequence of the 1967 Paul Newman movie and after he is
shot he's loaded into the back door of the prison warden's vehicle I
want one too. The red Chevy has the hood, emblem, grill, front fenders
and headlites of the 48-54 trucks, but looks like a 4 door station
wagon, not a Subu
Since all working on it and not driving it makes Jack .
I needed some gravel to fill in a muddy spot where I park the 57 3600
so I called the local landscape materials lot. It's early in the season
and they are not open. The owner was out of town, putting the dock in
on some lake, and I tal
It once had a license frame that said 'keep on truckin'. I was only
wondering if this slogan disappeared from after market mud flaps and
frames because of a taboo like it was the slogan of barbituate addicts
or something?
T-shirts amd vintage bumper stickers as well as CD of the rock song are
Visit this excellent altermator guy if you want to do it better.
http://www.madelectrical.com/
-- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>
> Just responding back to the group for the record, my wants for
voltage
>
>I will
> remain speptical on the rotor & field wires
When our uncle Rip awoke from his 40 year nap, he started looking for a
certain license plate frame to put on his newly restored 66 C20. He was
profoundly unsuccesful even on *bay, but certain he had one in 1969.
Before he went to alot of trouble to have one made, he thought he would
ask the pr
I have read about 1000 posts on 100 of lists on how to install a
windshield. There seems to be three ways, put the gasket on the glass
first, put the gasket on the pinch weld first, or let a glass shop do
it. Is there an expert recommendation on the first two? This is the
flatter one piece glas
> > I have split rims on my '49-3600. After finding no one who would
> attempt to remove the existing tires from them, > > The rims are 15
inch, 8 lug. Does anyone in the group have an
> alternative solution to the split rims
Once the tire is off (a relationship with a tire shop is nice, the
h
> Bob, putting a value on these trucks is diffucult. Way too many
variables
I agree. First you must have a passion for this kind of thing. Enjoy
spending many hours on a small thing like refurbishing a U-joint. Even
if you got alot of bucks, you still have to get all your truck parts to
the bod
Whats the deal with the rubber wheel in the 49 dealer installed
turnsignal switch? can it be set to rub the steering wheel and self
cancel or am I missing a segment on the column?
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "rmarks10" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The good news is the truck and I
I have the 57 235 in the 49, finishing up the 'small & simple stuff'
before I put sheet metal back on.
1. Is it really necessary to add switch/wiring to apply 12V directly
to coil to bypass the 57 ballast resistor for starting with foot
switch?
2. If no, then can I mount the resistor between
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, "Marty McGahan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:
My question is, you have the running light and
> the break light working via the one lamp insdie of the tail light.
How
> does the turn signal light work in relation to these two functions?
The brake light pow
The radiator support is shaped like a U, and has a top Z bar that was
torched off and then welded back. Is this top horizontal that holds the
hood latch panel usually removable?
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to:
[E
I'm swapping a 58 235 with side motor mounts into a 49. the front mount
on the 235 looks similiar to the 216, but has no holes to bolt thru the
rubber block into the crossmember. Can I just drill a couple?
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no bo
I am thinking of diconnecting the 4 speed by removing the bolts to bell
housing, installing alignment studs, bracing on a jack, and then
removing the engine. This would eliminate disconnecting the front drive
shaft (3600) and the transmission cover and shift lever. This is not
the procedure in
> I'm alittle confused about wights, GVW, and that sort of thing.
GVW is a calculation based on tires, axles, springs, steering linkage,
brakes, frame construction, etc. and includes fuel, passengers and
cargo. Deduct the cargo rating (i.e. 3/4Ton), 120# for 15 gal gas, 350#
for passengers
any advice on reducing backlash on 3/4T by simply just removing a
pinion/bearing spacer without removing pumpkin?
manual details adjusting bearings with dial indicator, and adjusting
pinion depth by applying red lead on gear mating surfaces and checking
contact which then requires resetting back
>(cab bracing)--the drivers door has lost its strap that limits travel,
>and has been (rather harshly from the look
> of it) hyperextended to the point it has put a curved valley in the
> cab exterior in front of the door...
I have one too.
Any ideas on how we can fix this, can't get behind it
If it helps, on my chevy 57 the bracket mounts on the wheel side of
the inner fender, there is a 3/8 hole at the bottom where the inner
fender changes directions backwards jog. mount with 2 rubber washers
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> I guess I wasn't as clea
I'm searching the shop manual: nothing
The group archives say dyno HP ratings at 3200, up to 4000+?
I took the TF (3600, 235w/4sp Hydromatic, 17.5 tires) with the new
speedometer cable out on the highway today with a temporary tachometer,
55 MPH @ 3000 RPM.
The group archives say when you can't
Thanks to your expert advise and the car heater supplement posted
previously, I removed the deluxe heater dash control for repair. The
bowden cables were frozen, and the electrical switch was inop. I took
the switch apart and cleaned and dressed the contacts and
reassembled. I easily removed
I have a 1/4" gap between the new door rubber and the cab, at the top
front. I can push on the window frame, and close the gap. The hinge
box adjustment at the pillar is only up and down? and the strap
adjust in the door is only front to back? the door closes nicely and
seals all around. any
The worst thing you can do is nothing, let each season take it's toll
on what's left of the metal.
The best thing is as mentioned, take everything apart, patch or
replace rusty panels, strip to bare metal, condition, fill, prime,
sand, fill, prime, sand, paint, top coat, rubout, polish, wash,
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> If you don't have a drill motor ,
I personnaly cannot imagine owning and maintaining these old trucks
without a drill...and a grinder, sawzall, impact wrench, etc?
>a tiny one will suffice .
I drilled a 1/8 hole and when I refilled it everything I took out
went
Stant 180. It has no bleeder hole or rivet. What size hole should I
> > drill? (57 235 w/ Hydramatic)
>
> Why drill a hole? they work fine without itthere is a bypass
hole
> in the water pump/block, you know.
I don't know, I thought I read a thread once abut a hole being
necessary to '
I apologize in advance for not searching the archives, I'm on a very
slow dialup.
1- Manual says original thermostat begins to open at 160, fully open
at 180. I had a Stant 160, not much heater, temp gauge low, bought a
Stant 180. It has no bleeder hole or rivet. What size hole should I
dril
lookin at the bottom of the
> piston arms, how in the heck do I get those bottom C shaped deals
> off. I unbolted them, but I wish they would slide off, not be a
pain
> to get off. I dont want to damage them, so would the weight of the
> crankshaft pull them loose, since the crankshaft is co
Thanks again for the supplement instructions. Seems that my hoses
from pump outlet (to top radiator?) to outside heater core connection
was reversed on inner connection. This may fool the heater
thermostat? or reduce flow thru valve seat? I'll drain the antifreeze
(and put in a 180F thermosta
"Jim Forbes" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
I just remembered, it's in the 59 supplement. Here are
> scans of the two pages.
> http://www.selectric.org/59truck/heater1.jpg
> http://www.selectric.org/59truck/heater2.jpg
Thanks, that's the ticket.
>
> But it's hard to see your truck from this f
"K Ohlgren" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
at 0F and with all cables working and new door rubbers, the best you
> can expect from that heater is a partialy defrosted windsheild.
Thanks... I'd be happy with that.
The tin can imports and newer truck I drive don't seem to do much
better, the only
find a good replacement valve (one with a working
> thermostat assembly) to get hot air again. Or cheat like I do and
pull
> the valve apart, trim a penny to fit over the hole, clean it up
nicely
> and solder the penny over the hole--hot air all the time.
Can you explain the valve?, bypass? bl
It's around zero, and supposed to stay that way for awhile. So I am
thinking about cab heaters. I have a control built into the dash, has
3? levers, temp, defrost, fresh? (could go out to the barn and look
but yikes!). This is the first winter I've driven the truck. all the
levers were frozen
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Jonathan Leishear
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Maybe I could move out to Rt. 50 in Nevada. I want
> space. I like the desert.
I used to see realtors' signs: For Sale 50 Acres, $50 down,
$50/month. (for 50 years?)
Now I have a hard time seeing anything b
I phoned the seller, her's the jist of our conversation.
Me:I see you have an old truck for sale.
Seller:Yeah
M:What canb you tell me about it?
S: It's a 1949 1 Ton, five window chevy.
M:Does it run, did you drive it to the mill?
S:No, Krones auto shop put a fuel pump on it and the engine
runs '
Today I ran across a truck at a sawmill not far from me, and I hope
you can assist me and participate in a plan to assess and evaluate
the value of this 'Gem'. I can tell you the following:
1948 Chevy 'Thriftmaster' hood badge
Long bed 4 Speed 48,000 on odometer
Tires holding air on 17" split
>
> Task Force trucks all used the 12 volt pedal starter untill 1959 so
> it's easy to get if you need one , don't turn in your old starter
> untill the job is done .
>
> -Nate
1957 TF with Hydramatic has ignition key starter. Not sure of the #
of flywheel teeth.
Ole Chevy and GMC truc
Jonathan Leishear <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I'm putting my bench seat back in the 2nd series 55 2
> ton.
> But there's a spring that's about 8" long. My son
> Can someone tell me how to connect the spring?
The spring is used to pull the passenger side forward when you
release the latch on
Exactly one year ago I bid on a rusted out flat tires junker truck at
the Rawhide Boys Ranch , It had a 235 I planned to put in my spun rod
1949.
I had it hauled home and decided to practice restoration on it. 100%
stock Wisconsin farm truck, original owner donated it when he cleaned
out the
I have the wipers moving after taking apart the escutheon thru the
cowl and using WD 40 and motor oil to free it up.
I am puzzled about 2 things I found.
1. How fast will they sweep? (compared to modern electric). Dash vac
switch semms to control only slow and very slow. Vacuum is steady 20"
thr
the radiator and take to radiator shop and have it "rodded
> out " , cost should be under $50.00 .
>
> I've never heard of a ' self healing ' so change it as leaky water
> pump is bad for your little 235 .
>
> Tight valves cause overheating as does incorrect i
The temp gauge jumps a bit when the ignition is turned on, never gets
much above LH side. Wiring is not open and sender is not shorted and
is properly grounded per shop manual using a lamp bulb test. Top of
radiator gets too hot to touch for long, water pump leaks so I'm not
driving it too far
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