William Robb wrote:
> There is an outer bayonet set for longer lenses that I have no
> experience with.
My experience with the outer bayonet set almost made me buy a broken 67
Takumar 400mm f/4.
I think there's a trick to attaching them securely.
Cheers,
- Dave
http://www.digistar.com/~dma
- Original Message -
From: J. C. O'Connell
Subject: RE: C41color film developing, how hard is it ?
> > or because you are shooting kiddy porn
> > and don't want to get caught doing it, in which case you
should
> > buy a digital camera.
>
> No , in which case you should seek a mental heat
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Albert Fekson
>
>
>
> I will be using it with my ZX-5N, I can't afford MZ-S yet.
> Anyway, I want to
> use bounce flash with the built-in catchlight card of the
> FGZ. The manual
> specifies that the fl
I presumed this fact to be intuitively obvious to the most casual observer.
Nevertheless, if the scale on the lens is correct, misalignment of the
mirror will not affect film focus using the scale and a tape measurement.
Regards,
Bob...
From: "Fred" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > 4. Poorly positioned
William,
Milwaukee is a great city. Big enough to have big city attractions and small
enough to still be a friendly place. Others can give you some camera store
tips as I haven't lived in Wisconsin for 19 years. I wouldn't miss the
lakeshore. Lake Michigan is great. 150 years ago, Milwauk
Hi,
I have a Pentax buddy that may be heading to Milwaukee on business later
this month. He is not sure if he wants to go and is looking for an
additional incentive. So, what is there to do and see from a
photographic point of view in Milwaukee? Any good Pentax camera
stores? Any good places
> 4. Poorly positioned mirror (the usual problem) will have no
> effect on film focus, but will affect focus screen focus.
Actually, Bob, mirror misalignment ~will~ affect film focus, albeit
indirectly. (However, directly or indirectly, the effect is going
to be that the image cast onto the film
In a message dated 7/2/2002 7:52:07 PM Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> Generally you will be able to specify the length to resize one
> side and the other will be resized automatically in order to constrain the
> image proportions.
>
Now I just let the scanner do all the
On 2 Jul 2002 at 14:06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Ihave been following this thread and have been very interested. One of the
> reasons I have not submitted to PUG has been the hassle of getting an image to
> the right size for submittal.
It seems that one of the common problems for people new
On Tue, 2 Jul 2002, Amita Guha wrote:
> Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800
> instead?
Depends. I handheld some fireworks shots last night (3-5 seconds), and I
used a mixture of 400 and 800 film. I prefer to use slower film and
steady the camera on something local
On Mon, 1 Jul 2002, William Robb wrote:
> > > But the missing link is between the 50 and the 85mm, there
> is
> > > no 65mm lens! :(
>
>
> Doesn't Nikon make a 65mm macro?
> I have a 65mm Angulon...
Close. It's a 60mm, and they call their macro lenses "micro" for some
lame marketing reason.
1. Prism setting(s) have no effect on either film focus or focus screen
focus.
2. Diopter setting have no effect on either film focus or focus screen
focus.
3. Improper focus screen latching will have no effect on film focus, but
will affect focus screen focus.
4. Poorly positioned mirror (the usu
Hello all,
Just unpacked my new toy; AF-360 FGZ flash from Adorama. So far my
impressions are favorable; its compact, well-build and has neat features. I
will be using it on the 4th to photograph my grandfather's 75th Birthday
party.
I will be using it with my ZX-5N, I can't afford MZ-S yet. Any
With 5 hours to go, I don't have a bid on this... can't imagine why.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1545974742
Any of you want it? Is this so plentiful that my price is too high?
annsan the perplexed
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The Kiron and Vivitar 105 macros should be optically identical in all respects except
possibly their coatings. I say optically identical, because the finish is different. I
would assume they were build on the same assembly line, using the same internal
baffling and diaphragm.
After offline dia
Before you give Vuescan another try: download the newest version. That
also cured a problem I had under Windows. The current version is 7.5.35
On Tuesday 02 July 2002 23:17, Doug Franklin wrote:
> Hi Frits,
>
> On Tue, 2 Jul 2002 21:06:27 +0100, Frits J. Wthrich wrote:
> > In all fairness, they
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Steve Desjardins
>
>
> "On another topic, I was surprised to read that Dario had trouble
> setting the AF sensor points, feeling that he needed two
> right hands,
> when it's easier to use the left fing
"On another topic, I was surprised to read that Dario had trouble
setting the AF sensor points, feeling that he needed two right hands,
when it's easier to use the left fingertips to operate the AF point lock
switch. "
I've had the same problem. It may depend on the size of your hands,
but I fi
Re-opening an old technical discussion:
My whole understand of DOF has been enlightened
and the explanations I provided earlier were in
serious error.
#1. DOF is directly tied to the opening of the diaphram. This is the major determiner
of DOF.
Lens design affect is somewhat, but that's a secon
Hi,
Having added a 67II to my Pentax arsenal, and trying to
get the whole process under control, I am thinking of
doing that last step myself too: develop the film myself.
However, until now, a few things have kept me from doing that:
1) I have some experience with B/W developing but not color
>>> At the risk of sounding simplistic could it be the prism and
>>> the diopter settings?
>>
>> Are the labels for the LED's at the right side of the finder
>> clear, or are they out of focus, too?
>>
>> Fred
> Hi Fred,
>
> No. LED's are clear!
Then it's most likely due to mirror alignment,
Peter Smekal wrote:
> Who is Mr Murphy? Did that apply also to new LX's?
Mr. Murphy of "Murphy's Law" fame: "If something can
go wrong, it will." The root of countless corollaries,
such as: "The likelihood of bread falling jelly-side
down is directly proportional to the cost of the carpet."
M
On Tue, 02 Jul 2002 11:15:30 -0400, Amita Guha wrote:
>> Why not try slow film and a tripod? interesting effects that way.
>
>Hmmm...I hadn't thought of that. I do have a bunch of Kodak Gold 200
>and I was planning to use my tripod. I'll be in Greenport, LI for the
>4th.
>
>I just noticed there'
There was a recent discussion about the flash coverage of the MZ-S's built-in flash,
and why it was not recommended with the 24mm f2. On the AOHC website, Dario tested
the MZ-S, and posted a picture taken with that combination. The picture is perfectly
illuminated, even at the center foregrou
Yep!
I have tried it and it works great. Try some long exposures; astonishing
results.
- Ayash.
On Tue, 2 Jul 2002, Amita Guha wrote:
> Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800
> instead?
>
> Thanks,
> Amita
> -
> This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To
In a message dated 7/2/2002 9:12:55 AM Central Daylight Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> Subject: Re: Re: July PUG IR
>
>
> Hi David,
>
> On Mon, 1 Jul 2002 13:37:47 -0400, David Brooks wrote:
>
> >Thanks Wendy.I really like your March Road shot.
> >The main problem i was having was when i
>My guesses:
>
>0. The finder's diopter adjustment is set to something weird.
>1. The mirror can be out of alignment. This can be related to the well-known
>sticky mirror bug.
>2. The lens mount can be out of alignment. I don't think an LX should have
>such problems, but I've seen several (much ch
Hi Antti-Pekka,
Easy to fix? Is it a job for Pentax, or could you do it yourself?
Who is Mr Murphy? Did that apply also to new LX's?
Peter
>This problem is related with the sticky mirror problem.
>The rubber mirror rest bumpers have too much wear or they are mis-aligned,
>making
>the mirror r
Danke Heiko!
Your explanations seem plausible! Even if these things are difficult to see.
Peter
>Hi Heiko,
>
>on 02 Jul 02 you wrote:
>
>
>>Don't ask me for a source,
>
>Now you can ask;-) Here it is:
>
>http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/lxproblems.html
>
>
>> At the risk of sounding simplistic could it be the prism and
>> the diopter settings?
>
>Are the labels for the LED's at the right side of the finder clear,
>or are they out of focus, too?
>
>Fred
Hi Fred,
No. LED's are clear!
Peter
Peter Smekal
Uppsala, Sweden
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-
This
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Timothy Sherburne
> Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 12:10 PM
> To: Pentax Discussion List
> Subject: Darkroom books...
>
>
> Hello all...
>
> I've decided to start some basic darkroom work. Waiting a
> ove
>At the risk of sounding simplistic could it be the
>prism and the diopter settings?
It helps a little to change the diopter settings, but spit image line still
do not align.
Thanks
Peter
Peter Smekal
Uppsala, Sweden
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Are there going to be any PDMLers in the Pesaro area during the next 2 weeks? I will.
Would be nice to meet.
All the best!
Raimo
Personal photography homepage at http://www.uusikaupunki.fi/~raikorho
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go to http://www.pdml.net an
>So, please have a check on the alignment of the lens elements. It could be
>one reason for out of focus images at infinity.
Could be of course, but we have the same problem with different lenses.
Peter
Peter Smekal
Uppsala, Sweden
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
-
This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mai
Thanks for the answer Mishka!
A different screen be a solution of course. It's mostly split image that
shows straight line being "non-alligned"
But also on the matte screen we can see the lack of sharpness. (Let's say
you focus on some letters on a wall some hundred meters away.) I checked
the s
Ansel Adams's series of books!
Maris
- Original Message -
From: "Timothy Sherburne" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Pentax Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 11:10 AM
Subject: Darkroom books...
> Hello all...
>
> I've decided to start some basic darkroom work. W
Hi again folks,
Again, many thanks for your replies on x-ray fogging, APS film cartridge
construction, and visible (to the consumer) differences between exposed and
unexposed APS cartridges. Once again, I've learned something new thanks to
the collective wisdom and experience of the PDMLers. A
Hi Tim,
Tom Grimm's Darkroom book is helpful in that it covers a wide range of
basics for the darkroom. Another Step-by-Step book is titled "Step into
your darkroom" (or something like that). There's also a ton of information
that can be found online - - e.g. http://www.photo.net forums.
Also
When I had a split image screen on my LX, *every* single lens that i
have showed (ever so slightly) different inf. focusing (some were
focusing beyond inf. mark, some before). After i put the frid screen,
all my worries disappeared :)
However if the focusing is bad to the point that you can actual
I have never said that. In fact, I have never had a chance to compare
it to that lens, as well as to A100/2.8. All I know that I was blown
away by detail, and sharpness, and everything else, after I looked at
the scans of the slides I got with VS1 105/2.5 (Provia100F scanned at
4000dpi)
Btw, don't
Hello all...
I've decided to start some basic darkroom work. Waiting a over a week for my
lab to develop, print and charge me $16 per roll is getting ridiculous.
Right now, I'd like to keep it to developing black and white negs and prints
up to 8x10.
So, I'd like to start with some books on dark
> At the risk of sounding simplistic could it be the prism and
> the diopter settings?
Are the labels for the LED's at the right side of the finder clear,
or are they out of focus, too?
Fred
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Yup. I was going to pick up the Lee 3x3 filter for $12. Oddly enough,
Kodak's 3x3 is $30. Geez.
t
On 7/2/02 7:09 AM, gfen wrote:
> On Mon, 24 Jun 2002, Timothy Sherburne wrote:
>> and Lee have 75cm square 87 polyester filters that you could cut down to
>> fit. They run about $12 to $15 bucks on
Sounds like my Yashica A; it requires a Cable Release Adapter (aka "leica
nipple"), click on the B&H link below for more info.
There is a small knurled bezel at the base of the shutter release button.
This unscrews, then you screw the adapter on in its place. The adapter takes
a regular mechanica
At the risk of sounding simplistic could it be the
prism and the diopter settings?
Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free
http://sbc.yahoo.com
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Hi Amita...
I've recently been working on photographing large displays, and discovered
the following: Go for slow film (ISO 100 or so), a tripod and a shutter
release. Set your camera to its Bulb setting. Open the shutter when you see
the shell go up and close the shutter after a couple of bursts
On Tue, 2 Jul 2002, Amita Guha wrote:
> I just noticed there's a B setting on my Yashicamat. Now if I can just
> figure out where the cable attaches, I could have some fun with that
> as well. ;)
On my 124, it screws into the shutter button itself. On a D I had for a
(very) short period of time,
> Do you have the National Geographic Field Guide?
Yes, I do. Thanks for reminding me - I forgot I had it. :) You're
right; there's some great advice in there.
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> Why not try slow film and a tripod? interesting effects that way.
Hmmm...I hadn't thought of that. I do have a bunch of Kodak Gold 200
and I was planning to use my tripod. I'll be in Greenport, LI for the
4th.
I just noticed there's a B setting on my Yashicamat. Now if I can just
figure out w
Hi,
I photographed some fireworks last 4th of July using Kodak 100 speed print
film (can't remember if it was Gold or Royal Gold)using my PZ1p and FA*24mm
f2.0 and cable release. When the fireworks were launched I just held the
shutter open for several seconds while the rockets exploded and tr
Do you have the National Geographic Field Guide? If you do check pages
260-261. If not let us know and I can provide the relevant information -
they make several good suggestions.
As to your question itself, they suggest 400 speed be exposed for 1/30
second at f/16 for a single burst. If you wi
Why not try slow film and a tripod? interesting effects that way.
Last 4th of July Rob Studdart and his lady were here with me watching
them from
my roof - still hoping he will get a pic or two from then up (NOT the
ones I took
shooting with his camera tho :) )
My plan for this July 4th is to
if you haven't figured it out from my response to amita -
I'm back :)
annsan
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On 2 Jul 2002 at 7:23, Stan Halpin wrote:
> Bill - everything I've read says NOT, repeat, NOT to carry your film through the
> metal detectors. You are more likely to have your film suffer damage that way.
> And do NOT pack film in a check-in bag. The safest inspection is by hand, but
> the chec
Hi all
As you may know, my countrys economy is devastated
and costs of film and development have skyrocketed.
Im out of photography for now (I have other
priorities) and am considering selling my photo
equipment in the U.S. market.
Could you please tell me how much do you think I can
ask for th
I'm planning on using 160. If you're going to try to handhold I hear 800
works better.
Evan
From: "Amita Guha"
Subject: shooting fireworks
> Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800
> instead?
>
> Thanks,
> Amita
> -
-
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On 2 Jul 2002 at 7:43, Peifer, William [OCDUS] wrote:
> Of course this does bring up an additional question. Is it generally the
> case that the APS mini-lab processing machine cannot tell the difference
> between an exposed and an unexposed roll?
The APS cartridge provides a visual indicator
On Mon, 24 Jun 2002, Timothy Sherburne wrote:
> and Lee have 75cm square 87 polyester filters that you could cut down to
> fit. They run about $12 to $15 bucks on B&H. I'm going to try this with a
Sho 'nuff, searching for 87 polyester turned up two, one $22, one at $12.
--
http://www.infotainme
Would 400 speed film be ok to shoot fireworks or should I get 800
instead?
Thanks,
Amita
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On Mon, 24 Jun 2002, Timothy Sherburne wrote:
> One strategy you could try is to use a gelatin filter between the shutter
> plane and the film or behind the mirror and before the shutter plane. Kodak
I've been thinking about doing that, or finding an old, cheap rangefinder
and doing it that way.
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