[...]
3. Test both the K5 and Sekonic on a gray card, using your knowledge
of the size of the spots to be sure that you are only metering off the
grey card.
4. If there is a material difference in the readings off the gray
card, then test the meters off a gray card in direct noon sunlight
The one thing I would add to my own comments below is to consider the
lens you are using on the camera... Some lenses meter less accurately
than others, and F-Stops are not T-Stops and things like light fall off,
the numbers of elements int he lenses, etc can have an effect on the
exposure. (F
If I were testing the meters, I'd do the following:
1. Be sure to compare both meters in spot metering mode. You probably
did this but just in case...
2. Verify what the 'spot' in the spot metering is. Put a small saucer
sized white paper plate on a piece of black foam core. With the K5 -
If I were testing the meters, I'd do the following:
1. Be sure to compare both meters in spot metering mode. You probably
did this but just in case...
2. Verify what the 'spot' in the spot metering is. Put a small saucer
sized white paper plate on a piece of black foam core. With the K5 -
On May 25, 2012, at 10:53 PM, Mark C wrote:
If I were testing the meters, I'd do the following:
1. Be sure to compare both meters in spot metering mode. You probably did
this but just in case...
2. Verify what the 'spot' in the spot metering is. Put a small saucer sized
white paper
From: Kenton Brede
I'm making a foray into film and decided I should get a light meter.
I bought a used Sekonic L-508 which has both incident and spot
metering. Messing around with the K-5 and Sekonic, I found the
readings didn't really match up. So I took a picture of the blue sky,
the
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