that's a great idea Paul.
thanks
-- Original message --
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> BTW, the best way to accomplish this shot would be to check exposure when the
> coon is not present with an incident flash meter.
If you can get the flash closer, so it doesnt act so much like a point
source so far away, your lighting will look better. Set it up for
wireless (the MZ-S can do that right?) and like others suggested, in
manual mode.
I have an armadillo thats been getting into my back yard and digging up
e
Tom, FWIW, I received it yesterday.
Kenneth Waller
- Original Message -
From: "Tom Reese" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: flash photography at night
This is a repeat message. The first one apparently didn't go through.
I have an interesting photographic situation and I'd to get some
Unless you have a Lumadyne, then the GN is accurate outdoors at night.
proved to my satisfaction with my old 400WS unit which had a GN of 220.
I photographed my dark green '86 Ford 4x4, f22 at 10 feet on Ektachrome
in the woods at night. Perfect exposure. Of course back in those days
Lumadyne g
BTW, the best way to accomplish this shot would be to check exposure when the
coon is not present with an incident flash meter. Just have someone stand at
the feeder in the dark and point the meter at the camera. Then trigger the
flash to get your stop. Anything else is going to be guesswork in
Guide numbers are calibrated for interior rooms with walls and ceilings that
reflect, and average ambient light. Give it one to two extra stops if you
calculate exposure based on the guide number and distance.
Paul
-- Original message --
From: "Bob W" <[EMAIL PROT
Set it on manual. You know the guide number, aperture, flash-to-subject
distance, and film speed so you will get a perfect exposure (provided the
flash has the power to cover the distance). There is no benefit in this
situation to using a reading based on reflected light.
--
Cheers,
Bob
>
> --
Tom,
F and FA lenses tell the body how far away the focus
point is, and the body uses this information (along
with the OTF metering) to regulate the flash.
That said, since you're shooting a dark subject in the
dark, some exposure compensation would seem a good
idea.
I've shot raccoons (in the p
I agree with the manual flash, especially since that tree is not going
to move so you can set the exposure very accurately. Another thing to do
is check out your setup before the critter shows up. Do some test
exposures and get them developed. If the feeder and tree are properly
exposed the coo
I would try full-power manual on the AF500. When shooting outdoor flash at
night, it's hard to overexpose from that distance. You have no ambient light
support and no walls to reflect the flash. I'd shoot a test shot when the
racoon isn't around. I'd guess you'll need about f8 @ ISO 400, but tha
Better yet, send someone out there to play the racoon and have them hold an
incident flash meter. That would allow you to dial in a perfect exposure with
no film waste or experimentation.
-- Original message --
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Tom Reese)
> This is a repea
Tom,
Give the AF500 a try. You might also want a 200mm lens.
I've shot at twilight rolling into darkness and TTL has been great on the PZ-1.
I expect you'll get more than one shot at the racoon.
I don't think the flash will scare him at all.
Good luck, Bob S.
On 5/11/06, Tom Reese <[EMAIL PROTE
Tom Reese wrote:
>This is a repeat message. The first one apparently didn't go through.
I got the first one last night. This one this morning.
>I have an interesting photographic situation and I'd to get some opinions on
>the best way to proceed.
I'd go with manual flash for this one. With s
I'd use the flash in manual mode with the camera set to X sync speed and
the aperture set according to the distance.
Perhaps 1/3-1/2 stop under to assure good saturation.
This way you'd be assured of correct exposure with no P-TTL preflash to
spook the critter. (Yep, coons are fast!)
Either flash s
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