>
>Dave(picking up non metering equip. soon)Brooks
> Begin Original Message
> From: Mark Cassino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Mon, 03 Dec 2001 21:56:40 -0500
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: Sunny 16 rule
>
>On a clear sunny day, set the aperture to
On a clear sunny day, set the aperture to f16 and the shutter speed to the
inverse of the film speed (e.g. 1/100 (or 1/125) for ISO 100, 1/200 (or
1/250) for ISO 200, etc). Of course, you can elaborate from there - f 8
and 1/500 for ISO 100 film for example.
You probably should use print film
Hi, James,
Stated simply: "On a bright, sunny day, the correct exposure for any subject
is f/16 at the shutter speed nearest to the reciprocal of the film speed."
I took that directly from a site called "The Ultimate Exposure Computer". To
see further elaboration, here's the site:
http://www.
> Sorry to be a bore,
> But can someone explain the Sunny 16th rule for me, as I am not going to
> have my SPF meter repaired. I also want to use my newly acquired S1a, so I
> need to practice exposures without the aid of a meter. I will eventually
> buy one, but not now.
> Regards
> James
>
I sh
Sorry to be a bore,
But can someone explain the Sunny 16th rule for me, as I am not going to
have my SPF meter repaired. I also want to use my newly acquired S1a, so I
need to practice exposures without the aid of a meter. I will eventually
buy one, but not now.
Regards
James
-
This message is fr
Thanks everybody, for a lot of information on how to handle contrasty subjects; was
just noticing that the Sunny 16 rule is what I would have got had I carried an
incident light meter along.
Just a thought: would using high speed film help? I understand they offer lowered
contrast.
Bob, the area
o take them
>about just after noon in blazing sunlight and the resulting images are
>ghastly: burnt out highlights with deep shadows.
>I showed them to a pro and he recommended I use the Sunny 16 rule
>whenever I take photos in bright sunshine- i.e., I ignore the CW meter
>reading.
&g
Hi,
thanks Tom. It seems that I didn't know about this because I've been
shooting slides and using an incident meter for so long.
---
Bob
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Monday, May 07, 2001, 12:21:21 AM, you wrote:
> Hi Bob:
> The Sunny-16 rule came about long and long
RK writes:
> I've messed up some very important landscape shots- I had to take them
> about just after noon in blazing sunlight and the resulting images are
> ghastly: burnt out highlights with deep shadows.
If you've gone off the end of both your highlights and your shadows then
there's not r
Kevin Thornsberry writes:
> Some rare shots just can't be metered. That's when it pays to be a good guesser
> and a bracketer.
Sometimes you don't even get the chance to bracket, particularly with a
manual camera.
Cheers,
- Dave
David A. Mann, B.E. (Elec)
http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/
Just a note on Sunny 16 by the way. I've heard in the past that to shoot the moon use
sunny 16. Makes sense since the moon is directly lit by the sun. I tried it the
other day. When I picked up the pictures the lady at the lab had a fit at how good
they turned out. Thought maybe somebody
ntax discuss
Subject: Sunny 16 Rule
I've messed up some very important landscape shots- I had to take them
about just after noon in blazing sunlight and the resulting images are
ghastly: burnt out highlights with deep shadows.
I showed them to a pro and he recommended I use the Sunny 16 rule
ed a database for exposure settings. This goes back to
1965~1975. As soon as I upgraded to auto everything cameras, the fun
dissapeared.
So taking out a meterless Akarelle or my new toy Horseman 970, is like my
second childhood.
I'm starting to have fun again.
Between the sunny 16 rule and a litt
Hi Bob:
The Sunny-16 rule came about long and long ago, before the
manufactures removed the the safety factor of about one stop
that they used in rating the films. That is, film went from
200ASA to 400ASA without any change in the emulsion. This
happened back in the late fifties. For best
At 03:30 PM 05/06/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>Acouple of years ago, I shot a roll of negative film with a camera
>(Akarelle) I bought at a flea market, for $15 CDN.
>I used the exposure sheet supplied with the film for my exposure reference.
>The prints came out properly exposed (a real shocker).
>The
Living in New Mexico and working sometimes in Mali, I shoot in bright,
high-contrast light at whatever time of day I encounter something I need
or want to photograph. Color negative film can capture the brightness
range I usually encounter pretty well, but most color print papers
cannot. A low-con
Hi Bob,
Thanks for taking the time to post that very clear note on what might have
gone wrong with my shots:
Perhaps I wasn't as clear as I should have been:
I did base my exposures for the shadows and the lab printer has tried squeeze
out some detail in the highlights by overexposing the print- s
with detail. Slide film is less. The meter takes an average,
between these dark shadows and bright highlights, and ends up with an
exposure value that doesn't capture either. I don't think that using the
Sunny 16 rule will help much in this situation. The zone system says you
should
lto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sunday, May 06, 2001, 1:47:32 PM, you wrote:
> Didn't someone on this list mention a while back that the Sunny 16 rule
> doesn't necessarily apply today due to advances in film emulsion? Or
> something like that...
> Norm
> RK wrote:
>> I&#x
Assuming that you are shooting in the same lighting conditions,
double up on your pictures by shooting one using the Sunny 16
rule and another using the meter. The Sunny 16 rule is pretty
accurate. The film makers used to always recommend it (perhaps
paraphrased a bit) when they were still
Didn't someone on this list mention a while back that the Sunny 16 rule
doesn't necessarily apply today due to advances in film emulsion? Or
something like that...
Norm
RK wrote:
> I've messed up some very important landscape shots- I had to take them
> about just after noo
I've messed up some very important landscape shots- I had to take them
about just after noon in blazing sunlight and the resulting images are
ghastly: burnt out highlights with deep shadows.
I showed them to a pro and he recommended I use the Sunny 16 rule
whenever I take photos in b
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