Very nicely done!
On Nov 14, 12:56 am, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:
I sold my Bleriot to a local fella a few months back. Check out what
he did with it. Awesome.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/by-cycle/4058054535/
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You received this
I demounted some older Pasela's and found a crack in the sidewall that
ran around the entire sidewall at the point where the sidewall touches
the rim, maybe a mm. or two from the edge of the bead. I never would
have detected it if I had not taken the tires off. The black tread
was still in
I love the color, and adding cantis is a nice addition, but IMHO he should
have replaced the decals and headbadge after the re-paint.
On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 4:11 AM, Angus angusle...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
Very nicely done!
On Nov 14, 12:56 am, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:
I sold my
Works great on my older Atlantis. AFAIK Riv hasn't changed their
seatpost collar style...
It's a pretty simple system. All you really need is for the outsides
of the collar to be flat so the clamp can work. It's ok if it also
has a recess for a nut (as the Atlantis does).
wc.
On Nov 13, 8:23
very nice
On Nov 13, 10:56 pm, rcnute rcn...@hotmail.com wrote:
I sold my Bleriot to a local fella a few months back. Check out what
he did with it. Awesome.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/by-cycle/4058054535/
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You received this message
I have always loved my Carradice barley bag. made a facebook album
called Whats in my barley bag?, to show the amazing packing
abilities. Looks good on the bike and if you add the quick release
attachment it can go with you,
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=35852id=1345643093
On Nov 12,
You know, I noticed that before on mine, but didn't think much about it...
now took a second look and yeah, it runs around the entire circumference,
maybe 3 or 4 mm above the rim. Top layer of the weave is totally split.
Replace immediately??? Tread is still ok...
on 11/14/09 10:00 AM, manueljohnacosta at manueljohnaco...@hotmail.com
wrote:
I have always loved my Carradice barley bag. made a facebook album
called Whats in my barley bag?, to show the amazing packing
abilities. Looks good on the bike and if you add the quick release
attachment it can
I just checked my 2-year-old Jack Browns and they have that same split
all the way around, though not as bad looking as the much older Pasela
tan wall. The split appears to be in the outer gum wall, if that's
the correct term, and doesn't look like it's penetrated into the woven
layers below. I
on 11/14/09 12:50 PM, R Gonet at richard.go...@earthlink.net wrote:
I just checked my 2-year-old Jack Browns and they have that same split
all the way around, though not as bad looking as the much older Pasela
tan wall. The split appears to be in the outer gum wall, if that's
the correct
Jim, David,
For what it's worth (probably 2 cents), I believe the cracking is
not a crack, but the last layer of material that was wrapped over the
tire bead. It looks like it has started to peel off the sidewall.
I've had several tires do this over the years, specifically older/
narrower
Nice analysis, Jim. It would be interesting to ride the tires until
they fray to see how long they would go, but I tend to replace tires
on my cars and bikes before I need to. I think the newer tires are
safer, it gives me peace of mind, and it's a small luxury that I can
indulge in. Kind of
The last set of tan sidewall Pasela tires did the same thing. Like
Angus said, it seems to be where the glue line is. My opinion was the
glue was too strong and not letting the rest of the sidewall flex.
This set also had about 2,500 to 3,000 miles on them. So it was time
to change anyway.
My
My criteria for tire replacement is whether the carcass fabric is
compromised or not; no bulges or cuts in the sidewall. Cork life will reglue
the stray fabric edges, and seal exposed threads, but I hope to wear out the
tread first, which is always a satisfying proof of much riding. Confidence
in
Even though this may be a polarizing subject, I'd like to get solid
arguments to answer this question and support a decision:
When I bought my AHH frame, I built it up with the Sram Rival 10 speed
drivetrain I had on my Gunnar. I just bought the Sram aluminum bar-end
shifters and used the other
Any one have a spare chainring they are willing the sell? Looking for
a 42t 130 bcd chainring in new or like new condition. Open to any
offers. thanks
-Manny
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You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Rene:
Here's my 2 cents.
With bar ends (or downtube shifetrs) Anything works with anything. So, just
change your rear der and cassette for way less. My Saluki runs Chorus 10 speed
triple cranks and front der with a ShimaNo XT rear der and big pancake cogset.
It's a 9 speed and I don;t think
Rene,
I agree $593 is pretty steep.
You could also consider going to a triple crankset. I imagine that
would be well on the good side of $500!
Angus
On Nov 14, 6:51 pm, Rene Sterental orthie...@gmail.com wrote:
Even though this may be a polarizing subject, I'd like to get solid
arguments to
I agree. $600 to get a 25 bottom gear is rather high. A 34/36 with a 28-32
700c tire gives you about a 25 low. A 24 t granny with a 28 t big cog and
the same tire gives you a 23 low. If your rd can handle a 28 t cassette it
can handle a triple if it and the chain are properly adjusted.
What sort
This is an excellent conversation! As I mentioned, I've noticed this a
while ago, but haven't been too concerned. I'm lazy and cheap, ya' know.
The split runs completely round the tire on one side, and is barely visible
as a hairline forming on the other side. The front tire is in better
On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 8:35 PM, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
This is an excellent conversation! As I mentioned, I've noticed this a
while ago, but haven't been too concerned. I'm lazy and cheap, ya' know.
The split runs completely round the tire on one side, and is barely
Here is a photo of red tape with dark amber shellac on it. About ten
coats.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/jamespatrickvaliensi/3881408003/in/set-72157622091876713/
On Nov 13, 2009, at 7:20 PM, ejg wrote:
Hi
In my experience, the more layers of shellac you add the richer and
deeper the
I wouldn't spend a whole lot trying to get a 36t cassette cog, since
that's sorta bleeding edge ($$$) right now. If you get a typical MTB
44-32-22 triple (or one of the new 36/22 doubles), you can get a super
low gear with a 32t or 34t cassette. With the usual RBW-issue Sugino,
you could do a 24t
There is bonus to the shimano other generic cassettes in that they are
available in a huge variety of gear ranges - tight ones, wide ones,
high ones, low ones, and you can even customize them without too much
trouble.The point is that you have many options with the shimano
et al stuff to
Sorry about thinking you can get a Shimano 10-speed cassette in the
range you want. However, Interloc Racing Design (IRD) does make a 10-
speed Shimano compatible cassette, although shifting might not be as
precise as with a Shimano cassette.
On Nov 14, 8:06 pm, Richard rsv...@netzero.net
I do not know what a Quickbeam seatpost collar looks like but a
Pitlock works fine on a Heron if you stick some washers in the
recesses where the nut and bolt head rest. Please see my photostream
for details.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/24103...@n08/sets/72157617180006138/
Thanks,
Len
Thank you all for the great responses and ideas. Here are some more
questions based on those...
- I had not considered the alternative of going to a triple crankset;
initially Mark suggested to keep the double for the lower Q factor, but I
don't know how much of an issue that would really be for
Yep, ditch the Rival shifters, cassette, rear derailleur, 10s chain.
Sounds like you have an adequate 9s cassette already. With a Deore-ish
rear derailleur, Shimano 9s bar-ends, and a 9s chain, you may keep the
double crank and be satisfied with a 34/34 low gear and spend only
$150 or so to get
Is there enough chain wrap with the Rival rear derailer to run the XX 36T
cassette? There's also an 11-32T XX cassette out there that you could try.
Presuming you don't cross-chain that could work??? You could also go down
one size to a 33T small ring, which isn't a lot of change (3%), but might
i have a rival setup on my hampsten with a 50/34 crankset. i tried my friend's
ird 12/30 cassette and it did not work very well. the sram road groups are not
designed for low gears.don c.
--- On Sat, 11/14/09, cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com wrote:
From: cyclotourist cyclotour...@gmail.com
Mine are doing this at say a year and a half and maybe 750miles or so
from new. I blame the high altitude sun, which is why I usually avoid
skinwalls. Now they are not as bad as Cyclotourist, but given how few
miles I have on them I am disappointed. My house is at 7300 feet or so
and I ride them
Could you throw a Shimano XT rear derailer on there to handle the big cogs
in back?
On Sat, Nov 14, 2009 at 8:02 PM, Donald Compton
dcompton1...@sbcglobal.netwrote:
i have a rival setup on my hampsten with a 50/34 crankset. i tried my
friend's ird 12/30 cassette and it did not work very well.
The Shimano XT long cage, regular or ideally Shadow models, will handle the
12-36 cassette with no issues. Keven is currently running one and he showed
it to me. None of the Sram rear drivetrain components are going to be
compatible with the Shimano stuff.
Jim's recommendation to keep the Sram
This is a long shot, but if you're in Auckland, and have a bike with SS
couplers, please get in touch.
Qantas lost my bike and my tools on the flight from San Francisco.
Theoretically, the bike will arrive tonight, but who knows about the torque
wrench for the couplers.
Thanks,
Gino, currently
Gino,
Go to a bike shop and ask them to use their lock ring tool, it works.
If you can wait for a day, I can fedex one to you.
Ron
On Nov 14, 11:07 pm, Gino Zahnd ginoza...@gmail.com wrote:
This is a long shot, but if you're in Auckland, and have a bike with SS
couplers, please get in
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