I have four Brooks B17 Ti saddles for sale. They are well, broken in but
are not damaged from crashing or bad weather. I just can't handle their
shape on long rides anymore. $65 each plus shipping. If interested, I can
e-mail pictures.
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I am interested in one of the saddles, what colors do you have available?
-Andy
On Sunday, May 4, 2014 3:41:11 AM UTC-7, Don Compton wrote:
I have four Brooks B17 Ti saddles for sale. They are well, broken in but
are not damaged from crashing or bad weather. I just can't handle their
shape
Hi Don - I'd be interested in a black one - if you have one, please email pics.
Thanks!
Wally
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Have used my chain tool more times than I care to remember, mostly from
mountain biking (where I've had a few snapped links or pretzeled
derailleurs)... Never travel without one.
On Saturday, May 3, 2014 9:46:38 PM UTC-4, Ron Mc wrote:
If you have a broken link you need the chain tool to
I ride long distances. Sometimes I find interesting things along the way.
Yesterday was on of those times.
http://eprider.blogspot.com/2014/05/pa-300k-grace-and-humility.html
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Beautiful, heartfelt, and so perfect.Thank you, Eunice.
On Thursday, May 1, 2014 6:10:32 PM UTC-7, Eunice Chang wrote:
I thought I'd share my experiences on 30 days of biking last month here:
https://sleepyneko.exposure.co/30-days-of-biking
Warning: it's kind of long and well, teary.
Great collection!
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Your writing is wondrous. I've run long distances (40 miles in a day,
anyway) and I've been interested in remote dirt road and single track
riding that is long distance. I've found some routes that work, and wight
he Quickbeam coming as a light, fast, go-far bike vs the Hunqapillar as a
ride
much appreciated.
guessing these won't fit on Homer as the Riv Geometry chart suggests I can
fit up to a 41mm
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That's very moving, and I hope it's healing for you.
Thanks for sharing.
jim m
wc ca
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I’m considering a San Marcos in 54 cm. I would get a Nitto Tallux Stem. I
know that my saddle height is around 73 cm and that the San Marcos head
tube is 6 cm above the seat tube. Given that, I’m trying to determine how
far above and below my saddle height I could put the handlebars.
The
Hey all you dyno lighting experts. The instructions for my Edelux light
suggested putting some grease on the spade connectors to facilitate
connecting the light to the hub. Would that be dielectric grease like you
get from the car parts store for spark plugs, or regular waterproof grease
like
just a heads up. some steerer tubes dont permit stem-slamming. my Heron tourer
had a slight raised relief deep in the steerer tube that prevented this
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I would use the dielectric grease. That said I have yet to bother, but it
has been a dry year or three out west - Rob
On Sunday, May 4, 2014 10:58:25 AM UTC-7, ted wrote:
Hey all you dyno lighting experts. The instructions for my Edelux light
suggested putting some grease on the spade
Since my commute has all of 150 feet climbing over 10 miles each way, I've
got my Sam set up as single speed and I'm liking it. I can only fit the 1
bike in my apartment, though, so I thought it would be a good idea to have
the option of an easy switch back to multiple gears for the occasional
I do not like flats on my way to work. I used to run Marathon Pluses, and
upgraded to 35mm Supremes when I got my Riv 3 years ago. Last year I got a
flat and replaced the rear tube with a Slime tube.
I have avoided better performing tires so far because the occasional flat
is not something I
Barlow pass and stans sounds like a viable option.
On May 4, 2014 3:59 PM, Jay in Tel Aviv jayin...@gmail.com wrote:
I do not like flats on my way to work. I used to run Marathon Pluses, and
upgraded to 35mm Supremes when I got my Riv 3 years ago. Last year I got a
flat and replaced the rear
One of my tasks as a low-on-the-totem pole beginning mechanic as Stevie's
Happy Bikes in Corrales, NM last summer was to thorn proof the everday
bikes brought in for tuneups. This involved slitting the old tube to use as
a tire liner, installing 900 gram thorn proof tubes with 1/2 thick
bottoms,
Patrick, no goatheads on the roads around here. The usual cause of
punctures is glass, radial wires or other road debris. Ge70erally when it's
pouring down rain and I'm late for a meeting. Not acceptable.
I run the Supremes at 70 psi in front and 90 in the rear.
On Sunday, May 4, 2014
Patrick, no goatheads on the roads around here. The usual cause of
punctures is glass, radial wires or other road debris. Ge70erally when it's
pouring down rain and I'm late for a meeting. Not acceptable.
I run the Supremes at 70 psi in front and 90 in the rear.
Any thoughts on Slime vs
as far as i know, Longleaf is a one man operation so you know who is building
your wheel
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The White Industries ENO (ONE backwards) is the bee's knees. I've used
them on 2 bikes.
On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 1:51 PM, Jay in Tel Aviv jayin...@gmail.com wrote:
Questions -
1. Is this a good idea or a huge waste of $$$
If you are serious about single speeding, and don't want simply to keep
On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 2:35 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
If you are serious about single speeding, and don't want simply to keep
your hands away from the right shifter on your derailleur system
The conditional clause is actually serious. I very often ride my 2X7 Ram as
a
I did the just don't shift thing for several months before removing 8 of
9 cogs. I find it more relaxing not to have the option.
I weigh 165 and usually carry 5-10 lbs in my saddlebag. I'm probably more
likely to go too heavy than too light. Right now I'm asking myself if 32
1spokes isn't
I'd be interested myself to learn how Stan's deals with larger penetrants.
Local scuttlebutt, web reports, and Stan's own claims say it easily handles
punctures up to 1/4 long.
OTOH, I did use Slime, albeit in regular tubes, for a year or so, and found
too often that very often something would
I have the same question as you, Jay, wondering how Slime compares to
Stan's -- everyone here mentions Stan's and never mentions Slime and I
presume there is a reason for that given that in the US anyway Slime is the
known brand.
One question I have for you, Jay, is have you tried riding lower
Jay: I'm 10 lb heavier than you and routinely carry 30+ lbs on the 32-spoke
8/9/10-speed-dished rear wheel of the Ram (Open Pro, 14/15, 8 speed
Ultegra, 30 mm actual Parigi Roubaix at ~60-65 when I pump them hard). Now,
I generally carry such loads no more than 10 miles on acceptable pavement,
FWIW, and I realize that others' situations may be very different, but I
get as few flats, if not fewer, on the 22 mm (actual, 23 mm labeled) Pro
Race 3s on the gofast at 90-100 psi compared to the lightly belted 559X32
mm Kojaks and far, far FAR fewer than in the pre-Stan's 30 mm (actual)
Parigi
Jay:
If the Supremes have been working for you, try lowering the air pressure.
The oft mentioned BQ tire pressure chart is a good start. When I first
installed Supremes on my Atlantis years ago I routinely pumped them up to
whatever max pressure is listed on the sidewall (90?). One of BQ's
Try the Supremes with the Slime Lite tubes. They go to 35mm which should
fit the Supremes perfectly:
http://www.jensonusa.com/Slimelite-Presta-Valve-Tube
I've had mixed results with in-tube Stan's so can't fully recommend them.
Works perfect in a tubeless set up though.
The dig on Slime is that
1) No experience with the ENO hub, but by all accounts it's really nice and
works exactly as advertised.
2) White freewheels are amazing. They won't let you down. Shimanos or other
basic BMX freewheels can fail, White won't.
3) 32 spoke seems more than fine for modern high quality wheels. Look
On Sunday, May 4, 2014 12:51:48 PM UTC-7, Jay in Tel Aviv wrote:
1. Is this a good idea or a huge waste of $$$
2. Is the $80 WI freewheel worth it
3. Has anyone had a wheel built by either Ben's Cyclery in Milwaukee or
Bikeman? Their price including shipping is about $50 less than Harris or
One further discount: Phil Wood Wheelset now $210 shipped.
*FInal* Updated sales list. Thanks to all who've bought stuff!
o Phil Wood Fixed/SS Wheelset: Phil Wood high flange 36H (Front Rear)
track hubs with 120mm rear hub that is flip/flop with fixed and freewheel
threadings. Built in
Saw any amazing Hunq parked in downtown Davis today. Anybody on this list?
–Eric N
Sent from my iPhone 5S
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Rivendell keeps a serial number database-- if you register it:
https://www.rivbike.com/Articles.asp?ID=323
(Yes, it's stamped on the bottom bracket shell.)
I have a list of my bikes' serial numbers on my phone (in the odd and
extremely small likelihood that I need it on hand).
--shoji
On
Awesome, never saw that. Thanks for linking to it.
Cheers,
David
it isn't a contest. Just enjoy the ride. - Seth Vidal
On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 5:18 PM, Shoji Takahashi
shoji.takaha...@gmail.comwrote:
Rivendell keeps a serial number database-- if you register it:
Either, or none, is fine. What's more important is a really good crimp
connection (soldered, preferably) and good shrink-tube insulation. But any
grease will help in moisture-proofing, and will not impair the electrical
contact if the spades are kept tight.
Anton
On Sunday, May 4, 2014
It's a bit vague on the Riv site and on the Soma site, so I'm hoping to
hear from those who've actually tried the combo I'd like (it's what's
holding me up on ordering a frame). Fingers crossed, it can squeeze some
Jack Browns and 45mm aluminum fenders. Does it work? Worst case, I'd be
happy
I would be surprised if a single speed were faster
than a geared bike on mixed terrain. The net weight differences will be small,
percwntage wise, whereas the gain in efficiency (maybe not the right word) when
changing gearing needs will be large. Don't ask me for specific numbers!
Either way,
So far on rides of up to 3 hours (all I've tested so far), I am definitely
faster on mixed terrain in poser SS mode on the Hunqapillar, which has
racks and 2.25 Smart Sams for beefy trails and backpacking on said trails.
And I'm not more tired either. I'm definitely getting stronger after just
hey group, I was wondering if anyone has had issues using the Paul
thumbies/ Shiamno BE shifter combo. Im positive its something Im doing I
just cant quit figure it out. Both shifters seem to be extremely tight,
like they dont want to budge more than 1/8 of their rotating ability. I
I put TrimLines (37.5mm actual width) on my girlfriends San Marcos, I
haven't put fenders on but it looks like their is just enough room on the
front. The back has about 4mm more vertical clearance so plenty of room
there.
-Dave
On Sunday, May 4, 2014 8:31:38 PM UTC-4, Scot Brooks wrote:
Thanks Dave! That's the 700c version of the bike I assume? I wasn't clear in my
initial question I just realized.
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Hi Michael,
My guess is that you've set them up in the wrong starting position.
Happens all the time, so no biggie. Try starting fresh with everything
unscrewed and the indexing limit washer in whatever position you like. Then
try clicking through without actually screwing it all together. If
Howard, Erl and myself made it out last weekend for a wonderful meandering
exploration of SE and SW DC last weekend and cut quite the impressive
parade between our Celeste Green Atlantis, Sage Hilborne and Agapanthus
Saluki! :) I'm not feeling particularly verbose right now but I think
My second century ride ever.
Cambridge, MD/Chesapeake Bay area century ride.
Sometimes as I rode along I thought about the Rando-peeps here and on the
BQ blog. I have no idea how you all do 200+k rides. Such accomplishments!
My hat's off to you guys and gals! A 200k is on my bucket list, though.
Looks like it was a great meandonneur ride.
Would be fun to tag along for all the cool sights, as I know nothing about
getting around in DC.
Looks like a fun Tour De DC.
Thanks for sharing, Tony.
I look forward to seeing you again and the Saluki one day.
On Sunday, May 4, 2014 11:29:42 PM
Thanks Scot, I'll give that a look. Im usually pretty good about
checking that position, it feels like a washer issue.
On Sun, May 4, 2014 at 7:35 PM, Scot Brooks scothinck...@gmail.com wrote:
Hi Michael,
My guess is that you've set them up in the wrong starting position.
Happens all
May you heal swiftly!
On Friday, May 2, 2014 9:42:32 PM UTC-7, Statrixbob wrote:
As an owner of both a QB and Hunq (there's the riv content), I am
completely relieved that my left hip replacement went very well. Those of
you who saw me on my Bike Friday at RAGBRAI 2013 will remember I had a
Some steerer tubes are butted.
When slamming, be sure stem wedge is not in butted section, or wedge may
suddenly release, causing accident.
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It has been almost a year since Jared at Rivendell and I discussed Sam,
elected a build kit, and pulled the trigger. There have been some really
sweet spots of riding, meeting and engaging with many of you here in the
bunch, and some pleasurable wrenching on Sam.
I liked the Alba bars, and
Six intrepid randonneurs set out to ride approximately sixty-eight miles on
a beautiful spring morning this last Saturday. We departed from central
Austin and rode out to the nearby community of Taylor and returned to
Austin. All completed the ride successfully and a good time was had by
all.
Yep, like Michael said.
The inside diameter of the steer tube (the thing the stem goes into)
decreases near the bottom, and so...just slide that sucker down until it
stops, and don't force it beyond that. If it's not low enough, get a stem
with a shorter quill. If you're after low-bars, might
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