Does anyone make quality steel cranks?
Seems like a perfect Riv project.
On Sat, Feb 14, 2015 at 1:34 PM, Benedikt neutralbuoya...@comcast.net wrote:
I added a few pictures for those of you who wanted to see the other side of
the crank including some mating the two up.
Also take a look at the soma Lauterwasser bar remake:
http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/lauterwasser-crmo-handlebar
On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 6:11 PM, DS davecst...@gmail.com wrote:
My 'long' rides are 50-ish miles and they're fine for comfort (mixed road
and trail). Not sure if that
When brakes squeal the spokes in the wheel act like strings on a musical
instrument.
If you want it to stop, and don't want a huge amount of playing around with
it, just install a brake booster.
On Tue, Jul 29, 2014 at 1:29 PM, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
To get the ball rolling I'll guess
There are many good reasons to have wheels built locally. This is one of
them.
On Sat, Jul 19, 2014 at 2:08 PM, RJM crccpadu...@gmail.com wrote:
My Rich built Phil Rivy hubbed wheels included a set of shimano skewers.
My bet is that they were left out of the box and forgotten. Mistakes
To prevent rust, Boeshield is the best stuff.
An article from Wood magazine comparing rust busters:
boeshield.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/stop*rust*.pdf
On Tue, Jul 1, 2014 at 9:10 AM, Phil Bickford phi...@sonic.net wrote:
I agree with Jim's feelings about WD-40. It's something I might
If you have any issues with the set up:
http://sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html
https://www.bbinstitute.com/dl/dx_demo_chapter_10.pdf
On Thu, Jun 26, 2014 at 2:24 PM, Steve Palincsar palin...@his.com wrote:
On 06/26/2014 10:16 AM, Patrick Moore wrote:
Jay -- chainline is no more important
Anyone using the box eclipse v-brakes want to comment on them?
On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 1:15 PM, Mark Chandler i.ride.gra...@gmail.com
wrote:
That would be indeed be useful info, but many manu's don't list that
measurement. I do know that the Paul MotoLite has an extended range of
adjustment,
, 2014 at 5:16 PM, Zack B zoombom...@gmail.com wrote:
Anyone using the box eclipse v-brakes want to comment on them?
On Sat, Jun 21, 2014 at 1:15 PM, Mark Chandler i.ride.gra...@gmail.com
wrote:
That would be indeed be useful info, but many manu's don't list that
measurement. I do know
Wipe the outside of the chain off completely or it will pick up crap.
n Jun 12, 2014 2:41 PM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
I'd like to hear about this, too, because I live in a very dusty area.
Perhaps this lube is not the best for our very fine, ex-river-silt sand,
but I do like
pivot. The WD-40 provides a film that allows the heavy oil to
slip right in.
Now wipe the chain off until the outside is completely dry.
You now have all the oil where it is needed, and none where it will attract
dirt.
On Thu, Jun 12, 2014 at 3:50 PM, Zack B zoombom...@gmail.com wrote:
Wipe
Sram makes a dynamo hub that is specially designed to light up a low speeds:
http://www.sram.com/sram/urban/products/d7-dynamo
IIRC it tested as the slowest hub with lights off, but as the fastest with
lights on.
It is quite reasonably priced, too at $95:
The company that purchased Sturmey Archer (many years ago) is Sunrace.
In the beginning the quality from Sunrace was much superior to what had
been coming out of Sturmey at that point. Sadly, the quality level has been
decreasing for years and the people I know who sell SA hubs are now so fed
up
On Wed, Apr 16, 2014 at 9:30 AM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
Even as someone who is abandoning chain waxing, let me play devil's
advocate. If you are going to disprove waxing, at least let it be done for
the correct reasons.
I'm not disproving it. I used waxed chains for years,
Riding year round in SF and PDX, I have experimented with almost every
chain lube available in extremely wet conditions.
The problem with wax lubes is that boiling your chain in wax is a major
pain in the ass, and while the wax lubes do a good job of staying on the
outside of the chain (where
http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/lauterwasser-crmo-handlebar
http://www.somafab.com/archives/product/moustache-ii-bar
On Thu, Apr 10, 2014 at 11:32 AM, r.sh...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
Forgive me if this has been covered. Are there manufactured any Mt. brake
levers that can be used on
The Kojaks are the best fat slicks available.
On Wed, Apr 9, 2014 at 5:10 PM, dougP dougpn...@cox.net wrote:
The Big Ben's that Rivendell sells get good reviews here for both on off
road. Haven't tried them myself. I have a pair of 2 Schwalbe Marathon
Supremes that I ran on my old MTB
http://www.bbinstitute.com/dl/dx_demo_chapter_10.pdf
On Tue, Feb 11, 2014 at 11:49 AM, Eric Norris campyonly...@me.com wrote:
That would depend on the BB and what your priorities are. Campy bottom
brackets from the classic era are rebuildable and can last pretty much
forever if they're taken
I break rear drive trains.
A lot.
I used to break axles on 6 speed freewheels with regularity. Solid axles.
My commute involves a lot of hill climbing, including a really nasty
one in front of my house, as well as carrying heavy loads home from
the store. I ride in all weather, and a lot of
I would add that if the creak stops after you tighten the peddles, you
should take them off and relubricate them with a heavy grease.
On Wed, Jul 3, 2013 at 2:48 PM, Ryan ryter...@mts.net wrote:
I have a newish standard B-17 that creaks...guess I will have to live with
it..using same 27.0 mm
If you bring a magnet to the used bike shop you can usually find steel
chainrings in almost new condition for $10.
On May 25, 2013 12:57 PM, charlie cl_v...@hotmail.com wrote:
I get the weight thing but seriouslyits not that much of a
difference in the overall weight of your bicycle
I use cheap panniers for my daily commuting and break out the
expensive ones for touring and camping. I zip tie and hose clamp them
so that you can't just walk off with them.
Over the years I have had people go through them a few times. Recently
some a-hole stole a water bottle, a tube, and a 10
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