I'm adding cross levers to the 46cm Noodles on my LongLow, in a transition
from the M-bars I've used on that bike for 15 years. For all who ride with
cross brake levers on drop bars, what position have you found best for the
long run - angled steeply down, or angled up and out?
- Andrew, Berkel
I wish I had installed them when putting together my LHT. They seem
useful. I still may before touring in Aug. I'm not sure if I'd put
them on my Hilsen. If I do get them I'll definitely go with the Salsa
ones.
--mike
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On Thu, 2011-07-07 at 12:00 -0700, Jay wrote:
> Ironic ending is I decided to go for the interupter levers and the
> shop I'm working with can't find anything reasonably priced that will
> work with v-brakes. I mentioned the Tektro RL740 on the Riv site but
> their distributers don't stock 'em. If
Ironic ending is I decided to go for the interupter levers and the
shop I'm working with can't find anything reasonably priced that will
work with v-brakes. I mentioned the Tektro RL740 on the Riv site but
their distributers don't stock 'em. If I want to later I know that I
can order them from Riv
i'm putting interrupters on my atlantis sometime soon, i can ride anything
but would enjoy a mtb style perch on long descents offroad. dropping several
thousand feet on a loaded bike is simply easier to do when you can shift
your weight back a bit more.
seen them, installed them, recommend them. a
My 46cm Noodles are my first drop bars, installed with Pauls cross top
levers. They did ease the transition early with a more familiar flat
bar feel, but I ride mostly on the hoods, and after about 6 months, I
started ‘emergency braking’ (the brakes you jump too without thinking)
on the hoods too.
I had a Romulus with 46cm Noodles..rode and braked from the hoods most of
the time. A newbie to road bars may find the "braking from the hoods"
concept a little intimidating, but it works fine most of the time. I
eventually added Tektro cross levers, thinking I would use them when
cruising the
Yes, they are cheaper. And they will slow your bike. If pennies are to
be pinched, this is a fine place. But I still find the differences
between the two to be none too subtle.
On Jul 1, 2:33 pm, Steve Palincsar wrote:
> I have 46cm Noodles with Tektro interrupter levers on my Alex Moulton
> AM
I can't tell if you are being rhetorical or if you think interrupters are
perfectly frictionless and compressionless little miracles.
Lever-->cable-->housing-->end ferrule-->brake = some friction
Lever-->cable-->housing-->end ferrule-->interupter-->barrel adjuster-->end
ferrule-->more housing-
On Sun, 2011-07-03 at 17:22 -0700, William wrote:
> I attributed the improvement in feel to the incremental reduction in
> friction. Similar to the difference between quality cables and
> housing vs, generic.
Where would that reduction in friction come from?
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I attributed the improvement in feel to the incremental reduction in
friction. Similar to the difference between quality cables and housing vs,
generic.
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On Sat, 2011-07-02 at 14:37 -0700, William wrote:
> I discovered interrupters in 1999 when I set up a cross bike for
> myself. It was kind of an epiphany for me. I started setting them up
> on every bike of mine. They just made sense to me. The reverse
> epiphany happened last summer at Riv HQ.
I discovered interrupters in 1999 when I set up a cross bike for myself. It
was kind of an epiphany for me. I started setting them up on every bike of
mine. They just made sense to me. The reverse epiphany happened last
summer at Riv HQ. I was test riding a Hunqapillar with Noodles and SRAM
I have interrupters on all of my three bikes and I use them 3/4 of the
time because I use the hoods most of the time. I also use handlebar
bags on all my bikes and the levers aren't really in the way. I would
go so far as to say that having only the standard levers in the drops
would be awkward a
Back when I was a kid riding a 10-speed (before mountain bikes had
supplanted them as the 'standard' bicycle), they had these funky brakes that
not only had the levers for the drops, but from out of the inside of the
hoods was an L-lever, so that you could brake from the flats. Wasn't the
gre
I've found I really love interrupters. They're one of the few actual bike
component improvements in the last decade that really do something useful.
Simple, cheap, lightweight, unobtrusive (mostly). Great upgrade IMHO.
On Fri, Jul 1, 2011 at 4:23 PM, William wrote:
> +1 on the opinion that int
+1 on the opinion that interrupters are a nice to have complement to drop
bar levers, but not a substitute for them. I only have them on one bike, my
56cm Hillborne with 46cm Noodles :) on my other bikes, I don't run them
because they'd get in the way of my handlebar bag. Because of that, I'v
On Fri, 2011-07-01 at 14:13 -0700, E.B. wrote:
>
> Adding interrupter levers gives you immediate access to the brakes
> while riding "on the tops." This riding position puts you more
> upright, which in turn improves your sightline while commuting in
> traffic. I have interrupters on 46cm Noodles.
Personally I would learn to get use to it. But if you need the
security go for it. The 46 bars have a lot of space. And get the
interruptors with split lamps. Then you can take them off laterbwith
minimal fuss.
I had no issue adjusting to drops. The noodle also feels funny at
first but hang in th
Regardless of your background, my opinion is that you will definitely
want drop bar brake levers. Without them, you immediately lose one of
the best hand positions (on the hoods). The levers are easy to operate
in the hoods and also give excellent leverage when braking with your
hands "in the drops
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