I've found that White Industries rear hubs are much quieter if you keep
pedalling! Ha! Wink! 8-)
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to
Just got back from the coldest ride of the year thus far, -26C without
windchill (I mention the cold as it is troublesome for many different
brands of rear hubs), and it looks like the Phil Wood pawls have finally
stopped skipping. I disassembled the whole ratchet mechanism and degreased
it, then
For the owners of cassette hubs, if you have problems with the FW
mechanism, can/do you not have a spare FW mech. on hand and replace it and
deal with fixing it(or sending it to the mfr) or trashing it later so you
don't have to send the entire wheel away ? Sending the wheel just makes no
In regards to the Phil Wood hubs, the problem is often with the ratchet
ring which is threaded into the hub shell/body. The issue isn't often that
the pawls themselves are faulty, they just can't engage with a faulty
ratchet ring. And for whatever reason Phil Wood does not sell the tool to
remove
My experience has generally been that the better components (not
necessarily top of the line, which can be lightened to the exclusion of
resilience) don't necessarily work better. They work better, longer.
- Jim / cyclofiend.com
On Thursday, November 27, 2014 4:54:55 PM UTC-8, Benedikt wrote:
Just for the record: in many miles and years of using Phil ss/fixed hubs
and bbs, many of each bought second or third or any other-hand -- the
wheelset on the erstwhile Herse used 3-piece Phil fw hubs -- in admittedly
dry conditions, I've never had any problem except twice with loosening bb
Forgot to add that even the oldest and apparently most used of the Phil bbs
and hubs I've owned *all* turned as smoothly, or (one or two) almost as
smoothly, as the new ones I've turned. I've never maintained any of them.
On Mon, Dec 1, 2014 at 11:00 AM, Patrick Moore bertin...@gmail.com wrote:
Thanks Mark,
Yikes about the PW attachment of the CS shell. I for one prefer the
FW/CS body mechanism and it's attachment not being able to render a wheel
unusable . I do not own CS hubs , my needs have always been served with
FW's and FW hubs . I have 2 sets of Phil FW hubs and they've
I've been emailing back and forth with Phil Wood this morning on this very
issue actually, after they noticed a discussion I was having on Twitter
about lube for PW freehubs. I gave them a detailed run down of the problem
and the three different lubes i've tried (phil grease, then tenacious, then
As far as I know, the only reliable way to remove and install bearings is
with the appropriate press. I've used simple DIY presses for pressing
bearings into place, but for removing them you need either an arbor press
or wheel puller.
I believe PW uses NTN bearings which are indeed very high
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Bo-ePjd2qEs/VHzctaOp_jI/Iyw/3Snkee6O7IU/s1600/IMG_8683.JPG
Attached is a photo of how I've been pressing new bearings in. It's worked
perfectly for about 4-5 hubs now. I lightly grease the outer bearing race
and the inside of the hub shell. Then I
Nice trick. And a good reason to hang to the old bearings! They become
tools.
On Monday, December 1, 2014 4:28:16 PM UTC-5, Mark Reimer wrote:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-Bo-ePjd2qEs/VHzctaOp_jI/Iyw/3Snkee6O7IU/s1600/IMG_8683.JPG
Attached is a photo of how I've been pressing
Precisely why I held onto this Mavic toolkit
http://www.tearsforgears.com/2012/09/mavic-tools.html
http://earsforgears.com/2012/09/mavic-tools.html before letting go and
selling it to Jeremy.
No maker since has been so open with information about installing and
removing bearings from their
Yes they do, and I love my T11 hubs fiercely!
On Fri, Nov 28, 2014 at 12:34 PM, Benedikt neutralbuoya...@comcast.net
wrote:
Anton I completely agree with you when it comes to Phil Wood hubs and the
replacable bearings. I believe it's a cartridge bearing. As a side note,
does anyone know if
I've had great luck with my T11 rear hub but man are those pawls annoyingly
loud. Anyone have any tips for quieting them up?
Anton
On Sunday, November 30, 2014 2:26:00 PM UTC-5, Christopher Chen wrote:
Yes they do, and I love my T11 hubs fiercely!
On Fri, Nov 28, 2014 at 12:34 PM,
I just tell myself that at least they're not Chris King hubs...
On Sun, Nov 30, 2014 at 6:36 PM, Anton Tutter atut...@gmail.com wrote:
I've had great luck with my T11 rear hub but man are those pawls
annoyingly loud. Anyone have any tips for quieting them up?
Anton
On Sunday, November
Anton, You touched on my major favorite. Mavic headsets, bottom brackets
and hubs of the late '80s and early '90s opened a special place in my
heart, for cartridge bearings particularly. The BB was fantastic,
serviceable without deinstalling. The bearings were not fiddly odd ducks,
I'd picked
MaxiCar and Royce hubs have put in many miles for me.
--
You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups RBW
Owners Bunch group.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email
to rbw-owners-bunch+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com.
To post
Well thought reply, Andy. I had never thought about the differences in
impulse energy among various indexing shifters. I do wonder whether the
sudden pulses contribute to derailleur parallelogram pivot wear... of
course another part of that equation is the material of the pivot pins. I
would
Glad to hear you weren't hurt Steve. Definitely a catastrophic failure, and one
without warning.
I have a Phil Wood BB on my Hilsen. I'm guessing it has about 3-4,000 miles on
it. So far so good, but I'll probably switch it out to a SKF at some
point.I've read the Phil Wood BB isn't very
The problem with Phil Wood BBs and hubs isn't the bearings, but the lack of
seals for them. The black rubber shields are intended to keep out dust, not
water. So you basically have the bearings exposed to the elements... If you
ride in the rain, they won't last long. As you point out, at least
I didn't test the SKF in another bike's BB shell because I didn't have a
free one available at the time. That would have been the best test of
whether the new bike's threads were too shallow, or the SKF's too large.
But since the Shimano had no problems in the new bike, I attributed the
Yikes, that is indeed scary, but FWIW, I've heard of spindle fractures on
many brands, cheap and expensive (including Phil, Tange, SKF), but those
catastrophic failures seem so rare that I didn't include them when
mentioning reliability. I wouldn't exclude using a brand that someone had
such
I've replaced the bearings on both Phil and WI hubs. Any bike or bearing
store will have them. My Phil hubs on my old All Rounder used to squeal at
times; I once pulled and rotated them all on the Strand in Hermosa Beach.
I've been sold on sealed bearings ever since getting my first pair of Road
Huh... Thinking of specifics over the last few years, I mostly buy used
boutique stuff. Used pushes things down into the sweet spot, but it has its
pitfalls. A couple White ENO rings just toothed to hell, a Phil Kiss Off
wheelset that needed a bearing and a rim replaced.
I tend to keep the
Replacement cables and housing? Why not just use better housing in
the first place? The top of the line Jagwire can be had in an OEM
pack enough for a whole bike for around $20 on fleabay.
I've abandoned using the housing that ships with new shifters. The
Jagwire stuff works better and lasts
Speaking of bearing races on loose ball bearing hubs, is it possible
to micropolish them as is done in crankshaft and rod journals in
internal combustion engines? That seems to me like something that
could prolong the usefulness of loose bearing hubs, along with high
quality ball bearings and
That's what I use. Doesn't make a difference. I've used bulk housing and fancy
jagwire kits. Teflon cables and plain steel. Still run into problems with my
105 brifters.
On Nov 29, 2014, at 1:42 PM, Jim Bronson jim.bron...@gmail.com wrote:
Replacement cables and housing? Why not just
The current owners of the Phil Wood company sometimes do make misleading
statements, like We have often been credited with inventing the cartridge
bearing bottom bracket in an interview in the Reader No. 40. (Note how
they don't claim that they invented it... Cartridge bearings in hubs and
BBs
Sorry, I mistyped: The below sentence should say external SEALS (not
bearings).
Jan Heine
Compass Bicycles Ltd.
On Saturday, November 29, 2014 12:20:50 PM UTC-8, Jan Heine wrote:
The bearings on Phil hubs really need external bearings – they aren't
designed to be exposed to the elements.
You've opened a can of worms with that question, as I'm sure you'll receive
a bevy of opinions.
In my experience, low-end groups (Shimano Acera, Sora) not only perform
sub-par but also are much heavier and don't last as long. As you move up
the food chain, they get lighter, operate with more
The exception to But for things with complex moving parts like STI
shifters, or things with bearings like hubs and bottom brackets, more
expensive is generally better. is when those expenses bring about lighter
material use that doesn't necessarily play well with the intended use of a
group.
Andy, there are certainly exceptions like you point out, where a premium is
put on weight savings over durability. And it's generally accepted that a
$20 Shimano UN55 bottom bracket will last as long as an expensive
weight-weenie titanium bottom bracket, and operate just as smoothly. But
it's
Just curious-- what are some of your sweetspot components? For me,
Shimano 105 hits the mark for most of the group product line.
On Friday, November 28, 2014 1:04:29 PM UTC-5, Philip Williamson wrote:
Yes, I think expensive components are better than entry level components.
As Anton says,
Anton I completely agree with you when it comes to Phil Wood hubs and the
replacable bearings. I believe it's a cartridge bearing. As a side note,
does anyone know if White Industries hubs use replacable cartridge
bearings? I love the MUSA factor.
On Thursday, November 27, 2014 4:54:55 PM
Dreaming about building up a new bike is what started this discussion. I've
been using bar end shifters (friction) for 4 years now and over 25,000
miles of riding (most commuting) I've noticed I can easily get 10,000 miles
out of a cheap hub or BB. I had a Shimano Sora shifter fail (before the
Yes, White Ind. hubs use cartridge bearings!
On Friday, November 28, 2014 3:34:09 PM UTC-5, Benedikt wrote:
Anton I completely agree with you when it comes to Phil Wood hubs and the
replacable bearings. I believe it's a cartridge bearing. As a side note,
does anyone know if White
I've had two Shimano 105 groupsets (9spd and 10spd), both of which were
used on cross bikes. Great price and excellent value, though not truly a
set it and forget it kinda thing..
I'd ride that bike on gravel road rides, nasty weather and of course racing
cross. Everything on the 105 group
I have had better service out of more expensive components. All my Dura
Ace stuff has been flawless, but it has been 7700 DT shifters or bar cons.
Brakes, bearings, etc, perfecto!
All my high end Campy stuff has been fantastic, lasts forever, blah blah
blah blah.
That said, when I built up
Agreed regarding Phil wood. I have four sets of hubs. Two single speed sets
which are flawless, and two road setups, one disc and one non disc. Both have
pawl slippage problems. I'm just rebuilt my five month old rear disc hub for
the third time with lighter oil after it continually slipped in
On 11/28/2014 06:44 PM, Mark Reimer wrote:
Agreed regarding Phil wood. I have four sets of hubs. Two single speed
sets which are flawless, and two road setups, one disc and one non
disc. Both have pawl slippage problems. I'm just rebuilt my five month
old rear disc hub for the third time with
I think its place in the lineup (Shimano) matters much more if you're
looking for brifters. I had a bike with Sora STI a couple years ago and the
shifting action seemed heavy, with big swings of the levers to finish
shifts. I don't have personal experience with them, but I imagine the
That's interesting to hear only negative comments about Phil Wood. I always
thought those would be bomb proof. I'm looking for something with some
color in the hubs and that was a candidate. I guess I'll stick with the
White Industries and save some money too!
On Thursday, November 27, 2014
43 matches
Mail list logo
