My aluminum 58cm boscos flex like crazy. They are super light and thin walled
tubing. The flex is so much I wonder if they would break but probably just in
my head. There is extra comfort from the flex a bit like doing push-ups on a
diving board instead of concrete
Al in Saratoga
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7:54 am 10/15/19
With my first-run aluminum boscos, I was eventually able to tighten them enough
to quit slipping, but I still didn't like how much they flexed/twisted. So I
ended up with the steel bullmoose version which are perfect in every way. If I
ever try the aluminum ones again, I'll us
I was test fitting Nitto RM016N "Mustache" handlebars to a Nitto "Dirt
Drop" stem, and doing so marred the handlebar's clamp area because the stem
was just a little too small for a slip fit. Not much, just a tiny bit, but
I thought, "Wait, What?!"
Both the bars and stem were prominently marked
Agreed 100%
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 16, 2019, at 12:13 AM, Joe Bernard wrote:
>
> Everything you've described - most of which include a different stem and/or
> bar design - are intended to combat the physics I'm talking about. My claim
> stands: I think some people are putting more lever
Yes, I can dig it.
Clayton Scott
HBG, CA
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Everything you've described - most of which include a different stem and/or bar
design - are intended to combat the physics I'm talking about. My claim stands:
I think some people are putting more leverage into the Tallux/Bosco combination
than it can withstand without extra remedies at the clam
I feel like slippage has little to do with bar weight or stem length.
If you want less slip then you need to increase friction between stem and bar.
A larger diameter bar/stem interface (31.8mm or 35mm) accomplishes this most
elegantly. Friction paste and torque are other means. More exotic solut
@Justin underneath the bar sleeve there are likely two slits/holes. Squirt some
wd40 or t9 in there and the creaking should stop.
CS HBG CA
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We may just have to admit that putting light wayback bars on light wayforward
stems has a practical limit before the laws of physics takes over. Sometimes
they creak, sometimes we can push on them hard enough to slip.
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My Boscos slipped. Overtorqued but no carbon paste. I took them off and
replaced them with Chocos.
Which creak.
And drive me nuts. But they are my favorite bar of all time.
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 12:37:06 PM UTC-7, jeff perry wrote:
>
> Is anyone else experiencing slipping Bosco bars?
I had some cromo Bosco + Nitto old stock cromo riser stem (CT-## {31 or 51,
maybe}) slippage. Not much, but a little upon hard out saddle mashing or
stopping.
I may or may not have experienced the same with the stock Tallux on my Clem...
I can’t recall as I swapped stems fairly quickly as I
Hello all-
Out of curiosity, does the metal make any difference in slipping? If you
had a slipping set, what was it made out of?
Boscos come both in heat-treated aluminum and chromoly steel. I put a pair
of Boscos on my Raleigh Crested Butte four years ago to replace a pair of
Civia Duponts.
I think the OP has reached the end of his confidence with these bars and just
would rather not. Which I totally understand; it's a very important contact
between you and the very important front wheel, and you need to know that baby
isn't going to move!
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I've ridden these bars for many years. When I first installed them they
slipped and I found that to fix it I had to tighten the bolt a little bit
more than I was comfortable with—once I did, they were set and haven't
moved a smidge since.
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Without actually measuring anything you have idea what you are working with,
either bar or stem.
Even if the bar is slightly out of spec, an open face stem is much more
accomodating, the bars don't have to be exact like a single bolt. I've used
25.4 swept back bars in 26.0 open face stems w/
>From your description, I think you are right not to use them. If it were
me, I would attempt to get my money back from whomever I bought them. In
my case, the only entity from whom I would ever buy a Bosco bar would be
Rivendell Bicycle Works, and I'm certain that they would treat me fairly.
Doubt they are defective. I think it has more to do with how and where a person
rides. Some friction paste and judicious overtorquing of stem bolt should
mostly solve it.
CSHBGCA
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Maybe I just got a defective bar. Disappointing. I can’t sell these, so I
guess they are an expensive addition to my recycle bin.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Oct 14, 2019, at 5:01 PM, Mark Roland wrote:
>
> I've got two of the non-bull Boscos in service on my 26" tandem. Doesn't see
> a ton
I've got two of the non-bull Boscos in service on my 26" tandem. Doesn't
see a ton of miles, but no issues.
On Monday, October 14, 2019 at 10:04:43 AM UTC-4, John A. Bennett wrote:
>
> I've been riding Bosco bars on my daily commuter (2005 RBW 62cm Saluki)
> for years, and I have had zero issues
Go to a bike shop instead. It is usually sold to install carbon seatposts and
bars that are sensitive to over torquing. Often they even have some free
samples in which case you can buy tire lever, cable, or tube.
CSHBGCA
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It takes a substantial amount of torque to keep those bars stable. I was
one of the first to try them years ago and they called a few weeks later to
see if they were alright. I had to use a pipe as an extension on my allen
wrench to get them tight enough. They have a freaky long reach back
c
I've been riding Bosco bars on my daily commuter (2005 RBW 62cm Saluki) for
years, and I have had zero issues with them.
No slip, no dip.
They are* by far* my favorite bars OF ALL TIME, and believe me, I've ridden
them all. Well, all of the bars sold by Rivendell, that is.
https://www.insta
Sorry to hear that. I think it’s just poor design, unfortunately. Too much
leverage from the long bars and not enough surface area in the clamp. The
bosco moose seems like the safest way to go. I’m sticking with my albatross.
I was happy with them anyway, just wanted to try something new.
I just ordered a set of boscos with the re-stock they did at Walnut Creek
and am having the same issues. New stem, new bars, correct sizes but same
slip as described here. So you aren't alone. Maybe I'll try that friction
paste... is that kind of thing available at any hardware store?
On Satur
I had the same problem. Discovered that the bars had slightly deformed at
the clamp area and therefore lost the strength of being a tube.
I could tighten the stem all day but the bar would simply compress and slip
with moderate force. Had to throw the bars away. They weren't safe.
To be fair t
I prefer 2 and 4 bolt open face stems myself, or at least a steel single
bolt one. I've never had any of those slip.
On Saturday, October 12, 2019 at 3:53:47 PM UTC-4, Clayton.sf wrote:
>
> One of the main reasons 31.8makes more sense. Slips substantially less.
>
> Clayton Scott
> HBG, CA
>
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https://groups.google.com/forum/#!searchin/rbw-owners-bunch/bar$20slip|sort:date/rbw-owners-bunch/-0wcciQEqq0/gzdmgfBvDAAJ
This is applicable. Seems like sufficient torque(with torque wrench of some
sort) and/or blue loctite on the bolt threads. Carbon fiber friction paste
also. Do measure both
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