That Tange BB is a stunning pieces of hardware! I'd be tempted to try it
just for the experience. Grant, thank you for the info and preview.
Richard
On Mon, May 2, 2016 at 7:38 PM, René Sterental wrote:
> Thanks for the explanation on CL, derailers and Q factor Grant. Quite
> helpful.
>
> I'm o
Thanks for the explanation on CL, derailers and Q factor Grant. Quite
helpful.
I'm one of those who doesn't qualify for that "old-school" BB, not yet
anyway... :-)
René
On Monday, May 2, 2016, Mark Reimer wrote:
> Ah...whoops. Yup, sometimes things get lost in translation. Gotcha... ;-)
>
> On
Thanks guys!
That's what I was looking for! I'm waiting for my custom and am doing
mental exercises to prepare for its build.
René
On Sunday, May 1, 2016, Garth wrote:
> Rene, the answer if literally, it can vary , sometimes alot ! Even
> with mfr. "recommendations". For example the Sugin
Rene, the answer if literally, it can vary , sometimes alot ! Even with
mfr. "recommendations". For example the Sugino XD I run a Tange 107mm bb on
one bike and on another I have a 110mm but could also use the 113mm. When I
bought a TA Carmina triple once I askeď Bilenky even before I boug
Rene, here, Jan has a really good table
http://www.compasscycle.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/skf_bb_chart.pdf
On Saturday, April 30, 2016 at 4:58:45 PM UTC-5, René wrote:
>
> Slightly off topic... How do you determine the proper width of the bottom
> bracket?
> - when getting a custom frame a
With modern, 2-piece cranksets with 1 arm attached to the spindle, the
spindle length is a given for the crank model, and crank models generally
work only within rather strict limits, that is, for certain types of frames
and rear hubs. For the older type of 3 piece square taper cranksets, with
arms
Crank makers typically recommend a certain length.
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Slightly off topic... How do you determine the proper width of the bottom
bracket?
- when getting a custom frame and a set of cranks you've never had before?
- when switching to a new different crankset than what you had before?
René
On Friday, April 29, 2016, Mark Reimer wrote:
> My Atlantis a
Of course, 1,000 miles per year /on dirt and mud/ isn't quite the same
thing as 1,000 miles per year on paved roads.
On 04/28/2016 08:43 AM, Scott Henry wrote:
You might get some longevity, but if you are really only riding in the
1000 miles a year, the cheapest shimano cartridge would be the w
You might get some longevity, but if you are really only riding in the
1000 miles a year, the cheapest shimano cartridge would be the way to
go.You can get a UN-55 for less than $25.
On Wed, Apr 27, 2016 at 4:27 PM, dstein wrote:
> Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What d
Why are more expensive bottom brackets more expensive? What do you gain? Is
it just durability? Or is there any sort of performance gain (ie, does it
roll smoother, faster, etc)?
I've worked on most bike parts now minus the bottom bracket and headset.
About to change cranks on my hunqapillar fo
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