being about a year or two since i used (toyed around with) the trail size of
the task 3, i forgot that it is more touchy when it comes to moisture and
should be cured in a warmer climate than the basement. I have been bringing
the
tank up into the dining room after each batch to cure for abo
I've had serious issues with cure quality/time when the shop is
cold... to the point that I have 2 heaters in there for winter work,
on top of a load of work putting fiberglass insulation on the roof and
walls. On the plus side, the insulation makes the shop very
comfortable in the summer and my
thought about that, i have been keeping the tank in the dining room to keep
them warmer, come to think of it, i need to try callng smooth on again to see
if that guy tested the links i sent him
Chris,
_Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html)
**A Go
On Mon, Mar 9, 2009 at 3:56 PM, wrote:
> i called Smooth-On and spoke to a Tech. i ended up sending him a set of the
> links i have cast.
>
> everything he thought of that might cause the problem, i shot down. he even
> inquired as to the type of rubber i was casting in and the release agent i
>
i called Smooth-On and spoke to a Tech. i ended up sending him a set of the
links i have cast.
everything he thought of that might cause the problem, i shot down. he even
inquired as to the type of rubber i was casting in and the release agent i was
prepping the molds with.
i might have a
i went and checked out the first set of links i cast that were soft and they
are much harder now. i'll have to put one in the vice and see if it snaps
too easily.
I haven't had the chance yet to look at the second set of links i cast
yesterday as i was out looking at a possible battle field
In a message dated 3/8/2009 11:53:26 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gfcr...@hotmail.com writes:
have a couple of open ones and I can't
remember which is the older one. Getting rid of them will be a pain,
recycling Nazis here are super anal.
Greg
what do you call old? i have had resin sit f
Just checking. I have had items come out tacky to the touch if there
was too much releasing agent, but the did dry up after a day or two,
when they should have been dry in 20-30 mins. I think it's about time
to get new resin myself. I have a couple of open ones and I can't
remember which is the ol
In a message dated 3/8/2009 7:51:30 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
gfcr...@hotmail.com writes:
Chris, are you using a releasing agent in the mold? If there is too
much and still wet when the resin is poured it can affect the chemical
reaction of the resin.
Greg
never had that problem befor
Na no release agent, cross checked everything mixed two seperat
batches both didnt cure properly. Only other explaination is the resin
is off.
Chris. b
On Mar 8, 9:51 pm, Cold comfort wrote:
> Chris, are you using a releasing agent in the mold? If there is too
> much and still wet when the resi
Chris, are you using a releasing agent in the mold? If there is too
much and still wet when the resin is poured it can affect the chemical
reaction of the resin.
Greg
On Mar 7, 9:37 pm, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
> well, something's really wrong.
>
> i just went to take out the track links i
I had the same trouble with SC300, long story short the resin is off.
Once its past its useby it doesnt cure properly.
Chris. b
On Mar 8, 2:38 pm, odysseyslipw...@aol.com wrote:
> speaking to Models4man right now and he suggested i that if this resin is
> bad, i could cast some links with it a
speaking to Models4man right now and he suggested i that if this resin is
bad, i could cast some links with it anyway and mount them to the tank like the
real thing.
Chris,
_Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html)
**A Good Credit Score is 700 or A
well, something's really wrong.
i just went to take out the track links i cast this morning and before i
even got to the treads in the molds i knew something was wrong. as i started to
remove the rubber bands from the strong backs (they keep the molds together
and prevent the flexing of th
didn't think about that, but i have begun casting tracks
Chris,
_Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html)
**A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1219957551x1201325337/aol?redir=h
Chris,
You *can* measure below the droplet level, very easily and precisely.
Proceed as follows:
1. Measure out 1 or 2 or 5 ml of resin into a graduated container.
2. Add one drop of dye; mix thoroughly.
3. Pour off some easily-measured fraction of the tinted resin into
your resin mixing batch. Co
well the sample spot of resin i mixed is about cured, and it's just black
(or just a shade lighter than black), so i took another bottle, poured more of
the part b into it and this time started with one drop of dye ..
it'll have to do as there is no way i can measure the dye any small
well, i just went to start tinting the resin and it looks like i goofed, it
looks a bit too dark, but am waiting for the resin to cure - just in case it
lightens up a bit.
Chris,
_Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/index.html)
**A Good Credit Score is 700
sorry, no, i keep forgetting to end that link, email me directly
_odysseyslipw...@aol.com_ (mailto:odysseyslipw...@aol.com) or if your just
wondering
what's there - it's not tank related, it is for my sci-fi model kits
Chris,
_Odyssey Slipways_ (http://hometown.aol.com/odysseyslipways/inde
Is there a secret to accessing your website from the link in your email?
Andy
From: "odysseyslipw...@aol.com"
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 4, 2009 2:32:42 PM
Subject: [TANKS] track link color (about to tint my resin)
just got the r
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