We've done a couple of installs on metal shingle roofs and we used the Unirac
stand offs with the Oatey boots. We had the standoffs and flashing installed
by the roofer so it wouldn't void the roof warranty. It cost about $1500 extra
but we thought it was worth if in case of a leak.
Thanks,
Be sure to check with the roofs installer first. I have had to pay roofers
to send a crew out to 'drill holes' to avoid the homeowner losing their
warranty on the shingles. Especially if it's a specialty type of roof you
don't want to be blamed for leaks or warranty cancellation.
Been there done
We've used the standoff and boot method successfully. It dictates where you
put your rows to some extent, but it's not too bad. There is definitely a
hefty up-charge on this roof type. It adds quite a bit of labor and
material.
*Jason Szumlanski** *
*Fafco Solar
*
On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 7:52
How is this roof type for flashing? Do you just cut it with a tin
snips? My project only entails replacing an unflashed conduit
penetration with a Soladeck, so I'm hoping it won't be too bad.
R.Ray Walters
CTO, Solarray, Inc
Nabcep Certified PV Installer,
Licensed Master Electrician
Solar
We've installed 3 metal roof systems over the years and we used the pro solar
tile track. Now Prosolar has the small flashing to seal the all thread
penetrations. You might ask them about that application for a metal roof.
The problem we encountered was maneuvering on the metal, in some ways it
Tin snips does the trick. I have a guy with 20+ years of roof experience
that's a craftsman with snips. It's easy to butcher it if you let a junior
guy do it.
*Jason Szumlanski** *
*Fafco Solar*
On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 11:06 AM, Ray Walters r...@solarray.com wrote:
How is this roof type for
Thanks for the advice. Good points on the warranty of the roofing material,
never crossed my mind...
I have all the confidence I can cut the roof to flash (3 generation carpenter
before I became an electrician). What is the process for removing a shingle?
I'm guessing the shingles interlock
Jesse,
For a particular shingle, it should be held down at the shingles upper and
lower overlap. remove all the screws from that particular shingle, a bit
wider and then possibly the row above it as well to allow for some
flexibility.
The shingle should just wiggle in and out of place.
If this
Have any of you tried these…Tile Roof Flashing- Solar Flashings- Aluminum
Flashings
http://www.verde-industries.com/solar-flashings/solar-flashings.html
I haven't, yet.
Benn
DayStar Renewable Energy Inc.
www.daystarsolar.ca
780-906-7807
Construction Electrician Solar PV Systems Certified
Just got back from our project. Yes the the shingles interlock, so its
hard to slide the flashing up under. I used 1/16 cut off wheel in the
grinder, to cut the lines for the Soladeck. It came out pretty good,
but we had a bit of trouble with the interlock grove underneath causing
the
Thanks for sharing the screen capture, Marco.
Interesting issues to think about here. This is actually prime clipping season
in many places (not sure about Hawaii) due to the cool weather. While there are
more sun-hours in the summer, the cell temperatures are often high enough that
you won't
Wrenches,
I'm probably a lone voice on this .. and not intending to get overly picky.
Could we call power limiting what it is .. limiting, and not clipping?
Clipping implies distortion, which isn't the case here. Limiting is just that.
The inverter output is limited to some maximum value --
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