You can find the temperature compensation voltage in the battery hot button.
It might be a bad temp sensor
jay
peltz power
> On Nov 2, 2021, at 2:46 PM, Jason Szumlanski
> wrote:
>
> Whoa! I just got access to his OpticsRE. It says battery voltage reached as
> high as 66V!!! (48V Nominal).
It's been a long time, but I'm quite certain it was landed on the Gen (AC2)
input bus. It worked fine for many months, so I can't imagine this is the
issue, but it's worth double checking.
This was a prewired dual Radian system from Wholesale Solar (or whatever
they're called now).
Jason
On
Sounds like the generator is connected to AC Out terminals (AC coupling). This
will ‘work’ to charge batteries. It will function but the Radian has no way to
regulate battery voltage. One would typically install an AUX controlled AC
relay on a grid tie inverter set up for AC coupling. In your
I would check at what voltage the Generator AC input set points are at. If the
generator AC disconnect voltage is set to low say 100V then the inverters stay
connected to that voltage then unlatch. Perhaps you are seeing a voltage spike
at that time. Meters will show spikes not averages.
> On
looks like one more failure, once they start there is no going back as the
fuse retainer loses its spring
On Tue, Nov 2, 2021 at 1:38 PM Jason Szumlanski <
ja...@floridasolardesigngroup.com> wrote:
> Ugh - no joke - we just found another one this morning with a blown fuse.
> Pic attached. It's
Whoa! I just got access to his OpticsRE. It says battery voltage reached as
high as 66V!!! (48V Nominal). I don't know if that's true yet or a
acrtually voltage metering issue. But it appears that when the generator
stops the invert mode kicks in and immediately shuts down due to high
battery
I have a client (DIY) who has dual 8048's and he is starting the generator
using both high load and low voltage settings with the AGS. It worked
flawlessly for 9 months. Then for a couple of months when the generator
shut down the lights would flicker. Eventually it started shutting down his
loads
Trust me when I tell you that all of the line side conductors and taps are
likely fine. It is unequivocally the switch contacts that are the issue.
That said, I usually replace the conductors when there is any indication of
overheating near the terminals. I have seen discolored copper, but it
It is always the left fuse! Thanks all for the pointers. I'll double check
the monitoring, but am thinking that I will be replacing the switch with a
SQD, and replacing the taps and AC wires as well while I'm at it.
Cheers,
Dave
On Mon, Nov 1, 2021, 9:13 PM Jerry Shafer wrote:
> Bad switch
>
>
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