> Anyone have any good recommendations for 23cm repeaters besides D-Star?
> I've read about the Icom RP-1200 and using two TM-541s. Are there other
> options that are as good or better?
The RBTIP pages have a lot of info on this topic.
See http://www.repeater-builder.com/tech-info/1_2gigthoughts.
Looking for a used cheap and simple controller with just COR,
hang-timer and time out timer. CWID not needed.
Randy
I concur... Mike is a very knowledgable guy... and a good dude all around.
nuff said.
73
Mike Perryman
www.k5jmp.us
-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Don KA9QJG
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 1:58 AM
To: Repeater-Builder@y
Hello all,
I have found a cheap charger cum power supply for Radios.
Its performance is good.
If anybody is interested , I can give the details for this power supply and
also make it available.
Vikash
Send free SMS to your Friends on Mobile from your Yaho
My impression is/was Lunar was a commercial/amateur product line with
multiple persons running the business. Lunar also made some rf power
amplifiers.
Angle Linear is probably just Chip doing what he seems to do very
well... low noise rf preamplifiers.
The interesting part of some Lunar Prea
Does anyone know the formula for the cable length between a repeater
and the duplexer?
Thanks
Don VE7EDA
Dave, I have some extra IF decks, if this would be
some
help? Could leave them with MQ the next time I see
him.
Jim K7OET
--- ve7ltd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> For some reason, the MASTR-II UHF receiver I have is
> missing the slugs
> out of the tuning coils in the 11.2Mhz IF
> oscillator.
Don,
The length of that jumper cable must consider both the length of any cable
between the TX output jack and the power amplifier itself, as well as the
length of the coupling loop inside of the duplexer cavity. If the output of
the PA and the input of the duplexer were purely resistive, the cab
The length from the repeater to the duplexer isno critical (or SHOULD
not be when properly tuned). Therefore, there is no 'formula' other than
you want it as short as possible yet allowing enough flex/extra that it
won't get stressed.
Joe M.
Don Morehouse wrote:
>
> Does anyone know the formula
Sheesh. "isno" should have been "is not".
Joe M.
mch wrote:
>
> The length from the repeater to the duplexer isno critical (or SHOULD
> not be when properly tuned). Therefore, there is no 'formula' other than
> you want it as short as possible yet allowing enough flex/extra that it
> won't get s
Why would the presence or absence of +/- J affect the determination of
whether or not the feedline is functioning as an impedance transformer? When
the source and load impedances are different, even though purely resistive,
won't the connecting cable still act as a line transformer?
Good catch! I should have emphasized that the length of a 50-ohm connecting
cable is irrelevant if both the source and load impedances are 50 ohms
resistive. That happy coincidence is, of course, unlikely in the real
world.
73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY
-Original Message-
From: Repeater-Buil
Roger, Roger, Roger.Steve NU5D
mch wrote:
> *The length from the repeater to the duplexer is not critical (or SHOULD
> not be when properly tuned). Therefore, there is no 'formula' other than
> you want it as short as possible yet allowing enough flex/extra that it
> won't get stressed.***
I'll third that...even though duplexers are typically reactive, if it's
right, length of the cables should not be an issue.
If it is, I would look at either the duplexer or the antenna/feedline.
As always, put a dummy load after the duplexer and see if all is well.
If it is, it's an antenna syst
Eric
I don't think the cable cares whether the source and load impedances are 50
ohms
resistive. I think the cable is indifferent to whether the load and source
values are
resistive or whether they present a complex impedance involving+/- J. as
long as the
composite value looks like 50
Agreed the duplexer most likely will not be pure anything. Seems like
Wacom tuned the pass/reject with a sweeper, then looked at return loss.
Odd quarter wavelengths of cable would transfer the Z at the duplexer to
the antenna, transmitter or receiver, but most PA's are broad banded and
could
Bruce,
The last sentence of your message says it all, and I completely agree that a
Z-matcher is the way to go. The original posting was a request for a simple
formula to determine in advance how long the jumpers should be to achieve
optimum performance. I think we both agree that there are too
http://www.eagle-1st.com/notes/duplex/body.htm
OK so you have a reel of cable and two connectors to make up the jumper between
transmitter and duplexer.
The duplexer is tuned using 50 ohm test gear and the transmitter has been
optimised into a 50 ohm load.
Unfortunatley the output impedance of the transmitter is not 50 ohms and a
length of
I saw that line stretcher guy, Ian. He was next to the striped tower
paint salesman. 73, Steve NU5D
PS - I have used an isolator in place of the TEE on the output of a
duplexer. Not very practical there, though, and it sure knocks down the
receive if you put it in series with the antenna, else
A good quality Z-Matcher has isolation caps on the trimmer ports so I don't
think the matcher itself is producing any RF radiation. I don't understand
your description of the z Matcher as introducing any
mismatch. The mismatch is already there as a result of some disparity
between the sour
The number is:
PL19C320523G2 Rev A
There is no direct hit for it, bit it is a 75Watt UHF mobile, with
UHF exciter (non-tripler).
The IF oscillator is dead, but I would like to troubleshoot it. The
receiver tunes up fine until I get to "pin 7" and I get zero volts.
I hooked my HP 8920A to the
Thanks for the link Steve, good info for the return loss bridge, but for
basic tuning the write-up is backwards. Should be adjust pass first then
notch.
Didn't want anybody to strip a notch adjustment trying to get from A to B.
:~)
Those things are spensive btw.
73
Don W5DK
-Original Messa
Dave,
The exact LBI for the 19C320523G2 Rev A board is found here:
The Description and Maintenance LBI is found here:
If the slugs are so loose that they fall out of the coils, perhaps a
previous owner broke the original slugs and substituted some that are
smaller. That is really strange th
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