That too is odd, the paging companies I have worked for, have had very few
problems, one time an alarm monitor that a computer was connected to got stuck
an was spewing out about 360 pages a min. That caused some concern, but a tech
re-programed a dial in modem and that took care of that.
If
Thanks ED, Called Midland and they had docs on hand for sale. Will
work on when docs arrive if any other questions will repost---
In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Com/Rad Inc com-...@... wrote:
First thing to come to my mind is
Before I get in over my head with this project, I want to see if its
A. practical B. feasable C. cost effective.
I have on hand a tk-880 and a tk-805d power supply and antennas and
required cable and software to program both.
Is this possible or should I buy a ericson readymade repeater
Hi group. I have a Motorola R100 up running have been offered a
Phillips M81 line controller. Can anyone offer any advice on three
points please? Firstly, are these compatible, and secondly, how do I
connect them? Thirdly, can you connect direct via twisted pair L1
connections rather than
It's not in a Rack, but i have all the modules, cables, and manual.
on 145.270 out 144.670 in i believe 67.0 Hz PL.
I don't know much about it other then the guy i got it from abandoned
using it because he could never get it to work right through echolink.
he bough a hamtronics.
i think the
I would go with a true repeater as the mobiles are not type accepted for the
use and there duty cycle in not designed for a repeater use.
John
- Original Message -
From: redneckfirefighter800
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 11:32 PM
redneckfirefighter800 wrote:
Before I get in over my head with this project, I want to see if its
A. practical B. feasable C. cost effective.
I have on hand a tk-880 and a tk-805d power supply and antennas and
required cable and software to program both.
Is this possible or should I buy
Ok, the Elmer fully retuned the Mastr2 mid power repeater on Sunday and has
it tuned for roughly 26 watts out of the P/A... This is a 40 watt P/A. What
will this station typically draw current-wise? Right now it's fed off of a
30 amp supply (major overkill) but we'd like to have a rough idea on
Mid power Mastr II stations used 15 amp factory power supplies...100w
stations used 30 amp power supples..
so.. probably less than 15 amps.. maybe 10-12..
Reducing the voltage to 12.8 from the batteries will significantly
lower the output power relative to 13.8v power supplies too..Factory
Let me clarify - this is a Mid Power Mastr II station, however, it has a
high power P/S (original 15 amp power supply was repurposed).
This factory supply at no load typically sits around 15 VDC with 121 VAC
input.
On Tue, Feb 10, 2009 at 1:30 PM, Doug Bade k...@thebades.net wrote:
Mid
Hello group,
I need to chime in here and ask about a device that being sold as an
enhancement for saving electrical energy in a residence.
The device is called Power-Save 1200 and you can see it at
www.power-save.com. From what I can glean from the web site it's a power
factor correction
Your question was already answered. No savings UNLESS the customer is being
billed for reactive demand (KVAR).
Chuck
WB2EDV
- Original Message -
From: Don Kupferschmidt d...@httpd.org
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 3:44 PM
Subject: Re:
Doug Bade wrote:
Mid power Mastr II stations used 15 amp factory power supplies...100w
stations used 30 amp power supples..
so.. probably less than 15 amps.. maybe 10-12..
Apparently I am going to be inheriting the care and feeding of some
MastrII's. First order of business is to get
Chuck is right. Typically power factor correction is an industrial issue (not
residential). Perhaps the utilities are implementing power factor correction
penalties to resi customers in other parts of the country, but not in my neck
of the woods. I've put many PFC proposals together for
The loaded voltage is about 12.5 to 12.8 comparable to what would be
in the trunk of a car starting at 13.8 at the battery alternator
connection.. including voltage drop...
That was the design anyhow... Astron's or eq are some what of a
problem as they really do not sag at all.. 13.8 all day
My question is this: Are new energy star compliant appliances power factor
corrected? In other words: To get the energy star compliance sticker, are
they required to put enough capacitance in their product to correct the
phase angle to 0?
If they are already required to do this for compliance,
Yes, there are PF requirements for Energy Star products.
Chuck
- Original Message -
From: Scott Zimmerman n3...@repeater-builder.com
To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 3:50 PM
Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] OT Power Factor
My question is this:
Doug Bade wrote:
The loaded voltage is about 12.5 to 12.8 comparable to what would be
in the trunk of a car starting at 13.8 at the battery alternator
connection.. including voltage drop...
That was the design anyhow... Astron's or eq are some what of a
problem as they really do not sag at
Careful..
1) You should never let a lead-acid battery go completely down, not even a
so-called deep-cycle one, if you want it to last a long time. Look at the
manufacturer's specs and build a voltage-based cut-off switch that will shut
down the output before they go below the manufacturer's
I am looking for information on the following Duplexer:
Decibel Products TR Duplexer. GE Part No. 19D402955-P10. Serial No. D
50171-9. Freq Band 450 to 512 MHz. Freq. Separation: 3 to 20MHz.
We would like to use this in the 70cm ham band. What is need to make
it work? Is there a source of
Lou,
I doubt that you can use this band-reject (notch) duplexer at 70 cm without
factory rework. The coupling loops were designed and positioned
specifically for the 450-512 MHz band, and they are not externally
adjustable. The lengths of the jumper cables are unique to the band for
which the
Nate Duehr wrote:
Careful..
1) You should never let a lead-acid battery go completely down, not even a
so-called deep-cycle one, if you want it to last a long time. Look at the
manufacturer's specs and build a voltage-based cut-off switch that will shut
down the output before they go below
I have a few 220MHz related items FS:
ARR (Advanced Receiver Research) SP220VDG 220MHz GaAs Fet switchable
preamp. In like new condition with paperwork. One minor scratch on the
rear, otherwise appears new. Mounting screw holes and pwr connections
look like they were never used. Tested on my
At 2/10/2009 17:31, you wrote:
Lou,
I doubt that you can use this band-reject (notch) duplexer at 70 cm without
factory rework. The coupling loops were designed and positioned
specifically for the 450-512 MHz band, and they are not externally
adjustable. The lengths of the jumper cables are
All,
I was given a pile of 6m stuff. In this pile was 2 DB4105-1A-C and 2
DB-4041 filters. I am wanting to make a duplexer out of them but I
don't know what cable lengths to use. I would like to convert them all
into pass-notches but I don't know if this is possible.
Does anyone have experience
The device works by changing the voltage waveform to get the most work for
the least energy. NASA came up with idea many years ago, and it does work
well. I think this was designed more for household appliances and such, not
repeater systems, unless you are counting the cooler that holds the
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