SOLD!!!
On 6/15/05, Eric . [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
This is for a friend of mine, HIS NAME IS GEORGE.
email me, or call him at the number in the 'ad' below, and tell him
Eric sent you.
images here:
LOTs more pix available!!! Too bad the titles is gone, looks like a
ncie car. eBay later today!
I'll post the auction link later!
Eric
[EMAIL PROTECTED] or [EMAIL PROTECTED]
On 6/16/05, Eric . [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
pix here!
A fellow turbo dodge guy with a GLH in Hawaii is wanting to buy
a 2.2 short block for his car. OR buy one and then get it rebuilt by
a GOOD rebuilder, that knows our 2.2 engines.
PLEASE send him a email with your info.
His email address is below.
Thanks,
Johnny Spiva
PORTLAND, OREGON
Good Morning.
I just ran across an 88 Daytona with 82k miles.
Burgundy color in/out, crabs, t1 automatic.
Most shocking was the CS emblem on the fender.
How weird is that? I would have guessed these
to all be t2 5 speeds. (live and learn i guess)
1B3CA44EJG402031
I'll have to check for the
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=7981554122
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Hi All,
I have a hard to steer car. The pump was low on fluid and the belt was loose.
The thing started steering hard so I checked it out. The car never worked any
better after tightening the belt and adding fluid. How can I tell for sure if I
have a bad pump or rack. I don't know why, but I
second that!
On 6/17/05, Marc Medina [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
If one or the other is bad, they should still be replaced as a pair. That
way you don't pump whatever crap is in the old part into the new one.
Thanks,
Marc Medina
http://www.geocities.com/mcm95403 updated 5/31/05
-
If one or the other is bad, they should still be replaced as a pair. That
way you don't pump whatever crap is in the old part into the new one.
Thanks,
Marc Medina
http://www.geocities.com/mcm95403 updated 5/31/05
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: SDML [EMAIL
Hello list,I have the following I would like to sell. its a 89 shadow ES
turbo 2.5 auto 4 door. sat for about 2 years, drove it home. runs good but
could probobaly use a tune up seats and sun roof are taken. can start and
hear run. open for offers. also a 87 lebaron coupe. 98% rust free. very
I've seen a few of these. Thought I was going to be looking at a T-2 5 speed
and find T-1 Autos, always a dissapointment.
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2005 10:21 AM
Subject: SD 88 CS Daytona? Auto? T1?
Good
I've done the power flush of the steering fluid trick and it sometimes
helps.
Very carefully, jack the car up and disconnect the drain line from the
rack and put the end in a bucket or drain pan. Place another line from
the rack's return line into the bucket (cuts down on the mess)
Put the car
OK, I put a pump in and there was no change. The rack is bad.
This is my 90 Shelby Daytona TI. I've put a rack in my 86 Shelby Charger years
ago. If I remember right, it sucked. Anyone ever do a Daytona and a Charger?
I'm wondering if it's any easier than the L-body. I don't want to fix
Hi Bob,
I know the feeling - trust me. I did the rack in my Spirit when I had the
engine out. To pull the engine I had already dropped the k-member so it
wasn't too big a deal to swap it. the worst part is the pin where the rack
connects to the steering column. Dropping the cross member down
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