Jack,
If I understand you correctly you want to print directly on to the
wood. I think it is a good idea if the colors don't bleed. Sounds like
you might want to seal the wood first. Let us know of the details if you
get it to work.
Anyway to answer your question; do a search for Paint Shop Pro
Just watch out for the Poison Oak mixed in with the Ice Plant. I got a
real bad case of it chasing my plane there.
Chris
Marta Zavala wrote:
Just dont bother with Sunset. There are too many combat types flying there
and the landing sucks. Many years ago before the fence and all the combat
Steve,
I came across a cool tip to use with water based clear finishes.
Put a few drops of food coloring into it and you have a colored
transparent finish. I tried it with some Minwax Polycrylic. Got a bright
red color that you could still see the grain through. I don't know how
the food
Ed,
They are both there; rtry2b.dat for the root and ttry3.dat for the tip.
At least that is the way I understand them. They are different when I
display them.
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/xfoil/files/JW%20Airfoils/
Chris
Ed Berris wrote:
I lost the coordinates for the JW airfoil
Hi Craig,
Yes there is 4 Degrees washout.
Here's my links for the C07 HLG:
Plans, profiles and airfoil data. It's in German though.:
http://www.zanonia-flyers.de/
Andy MacDonalds Flying Wing Page. The C07 HLG plans here seem to be a
different version but there are pictures and
Hi There,
Which side of a wing is it better to have a hump in the airfoil? The
top or the bottom?
I am building a C07 HLG that has a RS004 airfoil. The servos are flush
with the spar but stick up towards the aft part of the wing. I plan to
make covers for them.
The C07
Martin,
The top of the airfoil is more sensitive to irregularities than the bottom
so I stick the servos on the bottom. The exception is slope foamies where
they have to go on top to prevent the linkage being torn to bits when you
land.
Thank you. Out the bottom it is!
Those wings are
Mark,
The speed controls that are advertised for routers won't work on any
motor that has a starting capacitor. Chances are your bandsaw has a
capacitor on the motor. You can tell by the sheet metal housing (1 1/2
x 4 or so) that is attached to the side of the motor.
A rheostat
12 or 24 volts so if my math is right I could get approx.
20A @12v or 10A @24v.
Which would be better; 12 or 24 volts? Or is there any difference?
Thanks,
Chris
- Original Message -
From: C. Barker [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I have a what I would call a variable transformer
Yes it would be pulling 2.17A @110v input but wouldn't it be putting out
10.41A @ 24v on the output side (neglecting any transformer losses)? :^}
Chris
C. Barker wrote:
I have an outdoor sign transformer rated @ .250 KVA and I could hook it
up at either 12 or 24 volts so if my math
Hi All,
I am looking for a some sugestions for a symetrical airfoil that I can
use on a 60 aerobatic slope plane. I figure on an 8 root, 6 tip
chord, and a 60 span. I think that the min. Reynolds # would be about
200,000 at landing speed. Other than that, I am considering a wingeron
11 matches
Mail list logo
