Tom easiest way is pull the alternator and get it checked. Most places
do this for free. May be the diode pack that has packed up. Mine went
and it was the whole thing I had to replace.
What's a while? - weeks or years? or do you just mean the car with a
flat battery cause of the alternator no
In a message dated 11/5/2002 12:50:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> FLASH!
>
> I just received an email from autogear.co.uk, informing me that they are
> two weeks from introducing a 5-speed conversion for the GT6. No other
> details, I'm presuming it's going to be the S
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Possibly the workshop manual has the specifics of how to determine how many shims
>would be required if any.
As this subject has been playing on my mind, I've gone through the workshop manual to
find the following in the section on the
The shims as referred to in this application do not locate the starter
axially regardless if one were to use studs or the bolts and nuts as
supplied. The spacer has that job. The shims simply space the starter for
and aft in relation to the flywheel ring gear for proper engagement. My 72
origina
Bill,
The later Spits have nuts and bolts too!
Joe
William Davies wrote:
>
> - Original Message -
> From: Nolan Penney <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> > Some engines mount the starter with nuts and bolts, not studs or
> > threaded holes. These types of mounts are inherently sloppy. With
> > t
- Original Message -
From: Nolan Penney <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Some engines mount the starter with nuts and bolts, not studs or
> threaded holes. These types of mounts are inherently sloppy. With
> these, you do use shims to properly space the starter motor in
> relationship to the flywh
Thanks to all for your private and list replies. It would seem that I
shouldn't worry about shims. However, Nolan's statement below leads me to
wonder...
"Some engines mount the starter with nuts and bolts, not studs or
threaded holes. These types of mounts are inherently sloppy. With
these, y
I've never seen a starter shim for a Spitfire, and I don't think there
could be a need for one.
Some engines mount the starter with nuts and bolts, not studs or
threaded holes. These types of mounts are inherently sloppy. With
these, you do use shims to properly space the starter motor in
relati
- Original Message -
From: Jeff McNeal <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Hello all. I've got a rebuilt starter installed with an aluminum spacer
> that's roughly .5" thick (just eyeballing it) between the starter and the rear
> engine plate. I've seen references in catalogs made to starter "shims".
Hello all. I've got a rebuilt starter installed with an aluminum spacer
that's roughly .5" thick (just eyeballing it) between the starter and the rear
engine plate. I've seen references in catalogs made to starter "shims". My
question is this: Is there a difference between the starter spacer th
Well, I can't get the car through as is ( twin hs4 and only the carbon canister left
on).
So if I refit the airpump (should lower all the readings at all speeds) does anyone
have any idea of how much effect this has. i.e. does it cut the readings by half or
some other percentage.
I don't want
Lists, here is some very good info on battery chargers and proper maintenance
during the off season, it also tells about battery sulfation, if you decide to
purchase one of these let me know as better prices are available than whats
listed on this site.
www.vdcelectronics.com "FT"
/// [EMAIL PR
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