Here are some pics I took yesterday:
http://www.geocities.com/cgnr.geo/snrun.htm
Bob
I thought sure you would have had a snow plow out clearing the high line.
Pic's look great. Thanks for sharing.
Jim Crabb
At 12:00 AM 2/27/01 -0800, you wrote:
From: "Mike Eorgoff" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Normally a manufacturer needs to make a minimum quantity to
get the unit cost down to a "reasonable" amount that results in a price that
is acceptable. This portion takes in the manufacturing costs involving
pattern
There is an American source for these items. Peter Thorpe, Trackside
Details, came to DH 2-3 years ago. He had bronze wheel castings for "narrow
gauge" scratchbuilders. I believe he was marketing them as 36"-33" wheels,
1:20 scale. Here's a guy who's in the business, may already have something
Fellow steamers,
I am in the middle of digging a trench along my straight away. So far,
the pit measures 4 ft by 4 ft by 15 inches.
I plan to build an operator's pit/path to fiddle with those manual locos
along the lines of 4 ft wide and 12 to 15 ft long (depending on my
back). My concern is
Personally, I have often thought it would be far easier to dig a trench to
allow operators or audience to see the train layout from a more eye level
than to cart in endless wheelbarrows of fill to raise all the landscape
except a path. When I was considering making a trench I liked the idea of
Joe:
If you're looking for stand-up access 4' would be pretty comfy. If you're
going to have a seat 30" is fine, that's what I use on my layout.
As far as all the trench work is concerned, this may be the excuse you've
been looking for for that small John Deere with a backhoe(mower,
Kev, I purchased a bottle of brass black from Brownell two weeks ago. It
came and It was made by Birchwood It is in a blue Plastic bottle. I took
my Ruby and the bottle and headed for the workshop. I wanted to blacken the
cylinders on the little beast . I degreased the brass and then took a
I'm guessing that the cylinders are bronze, not brass. Bronze doesn't
respond to copper blackening agents in my experience with trying it (limited).
That seems strange, since they definitely are copper compounds, but there it
is.
Sounds like painting is the only way to do the deed.
-vance-
WARNING This is kinda long.
To all interested,
From what I've seen there are two different ways to make wheels.
The first is Machining, and the second is casting. I have only recently started to
learn machining, and so have little experience. I have been 'playing' with castings
for about 6
Dick,
I have used the Birchwood brass black on the Class A Climax locos I've
built. I have blackend the gunmetal truck castings and wheels, the
Roundhouse boiler cladding and the brass smokbox and stacks I've made.
I've found the best results are obtained by immersing the parts in the
fluid and
I live in dew infested Oregon. Despite dew's presence almost daily, steam
oil seems to cling to the rails. Pushing the cloth covered sanding block
around with a loco cleans it off pretty well. If it needs extra cleaning
soaking the cloth in some sort of solvent (ssos?) removes the last little
I have been 'playing' with castings for about 6 tears now...
Now this I can believe! Thanks for making me smile!
~ love to laugh, Gary of Eugene
Harry, you mention a lot of hand work. If I understand it correctly, the EDM
method creates spokes without a draft angle and with square corners on the
spokes. This is not necessarily a bad thing in all cases -- I just had a bunch
of wheel blanks water-jet cut, which resulted in a slight
the cost of making a rubber mold to shoot the waxes.
I made five rubber molds for the parts to build a oscillating engine
found in K.N. Harris book on stationary steam engines. The total cost for
the rubber (silicon two part mix) and the wax was less than $50.00. Making a
quality
Perhaps your dentist can assist.
The mold materials dentists use are expensive, but they are less likely to
leave voids. Ask your dentist about your troubles. He may have some
suggestions.
The flywheel has
given me a lot of trouble as I cannot seem to get a good wax casting no
matter what I do.
Boy, you guys _are_ having trouble heating your state!
Later,
K
In a message dated 2/27/2001 9:14:04 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
I suspect that the web, (area between the hub and outer
rim) is too thin and not allowing the mold to fill completely
You are right in your summation,Salty. The only way you can improve it is to
add a
In a message dated 2/27/2001 9:05:34 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
attaching the sprue in the center of the hub, which my caster was unwilling
to
do for some reason.
Same problem as Salty! Find a caster that is willing to attach several
sprues to the back. I had a
There was an article in Live Steam a few years ago on wheel making. In a
wheel disk, drill a sizable hole where the crankpin goes, then machine the
disks to the right profile. Silver solder a rod into the hole where the
crankpin goes to give the oval shaped driver center. Drill holes in the
After degreasing, wash it thoroughly with detergent and then rinse
thoroughly. Next use swimming pool acid diluted 1:1 with water to wash it.
Then rinse thoroughly with plenty of clear, clean water. Muriatic acid fumes
can be dangerous, and you can get eye damage also. However, it is not a
Trent and list;
The person who has "THE" knack (imhm) is Hans Shuyler (SP) . He gets the
backgrounds that don't make the trains look like they're in a out-of scale
setting. Close ups with grass always look wrong as a for instance. Flowers
look great but are out of scale for our trains.
Salty,
I'm really envious of your current project. I have long wanted to learn
investment casting. I will, someday, but until then I always turn a little green
when I talk to someone else who's actually doing it how.
Keep it up!
regards,
-vance-
Vance Bass
Albuquerque,
Add my vote to the positive. Any knowledge in
photographing models (trains or human) is appreciated.
mp
--- Trent Dowler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Ferdinand,
Yes, the interest is here for a web page about
photographing our little engines. Seems no matter
how hard I try, I always end up
Joe-
There's an article in a recent Garden Railways about constructing an
operator's pit somewhat like you describe, and it shows how to determine a
suitable depth. It assumes that the pit will be used by one operator. From
what I've seen, you'd be much better off with most of your track
Joe:
My layout is elevated all the way around. With an undulating yard I vary
from 6" to 44" off the ground with the main steaming area 24"-30" up. No
site work necessary!
Jim
Having been on a couple of photo shoots with Marc Horovitz, one tip I can
give that makes a world of difference is to get a pinhole aperture for your
camera. This is a really tiny hole in a sheet of shim stock that gives you
something like f/96 or f/120. The effect of using this is that the
In a message dated 2/27/2001 11:53:35 AM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
but until then I always turn a little green
You could be like me Vance. I have all the equipment and knowledge and no
place to set it up!
Bob
Vance,
Please let us know if Did Marc mounted the pinhole in front of the camera's
lens or did he modify the lens assembly to place the pinhole between the
lenses? Was this with a film camera or a digital camera?
Recently I used an old 35mm single-lens reflex camera body to make a pinhole
Correction: delete "Did" from first sentence.
First sentence should read: "Please let us know if Marc mounted the pinhole
in front of the camera's lens or did he modify the lens assembly to place
the pinhole between the lenses?"
Steve
VR Bass wrote:
And on the topic of casting: when you work with a caster, be sure to talk
about the necessity for concentricity, and what it will take to insure that the
waxes remain absolutely circular. Based on my last encounter, this will mean
attaching the sprue in the center of the hub,
Very nice pictures. I was just wondering how you kept the butane
warm? I live in NE PA and have a hard time keeping the fuel warm
and then the locomotive will not operate.
- Original Message -
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
John,
Try using MSR's Isobutane. That works better in colder weather than
butane. You can get it at camping stores. That's what I used today in
balmy SC PA.
John Simkovich wrote:
Very nice pictures. I was just wondering how you kept the butane
warm? I live in NE PA and have a
Drainage to what? Sump pump? Or are you on a slope where the drain pipe
would eventually surface? I suggest something removable to keep the feet
off the concrete(?) floor. Door mats made of recycled tires is a
possiblilty which comes to mind. And something to keep the butt off the
concrete
Charles and List,
This page shows some of the progress I made today
http://www.gardensteamers.com/track_install.html Right now, I have a
level point to point set up and it's great to be steaming in the meantime!
Charles, a drain pipe would eventually surface on my property after
trenching
In a message dated 01-02-27 16:35:56 EST, you write:
I have all the equipment and knowledge and no
place to set it up!
Well Bob maybe you should move up to Portland and we can set all that
equipment up in my shop. Another up side is that we do not have any of that
white fluffy stuff
In a message dated 2/27/2001 7:17:40 PM Pacific Standard Time,
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
Well Bob maybe you should move up to Portland
But if I move to Portland I would have to get a JOB, work for somebody else
besides myself, yech! And it is ##@% snowing again!
Bob
Joe, recommend that you do not paint the rails. The
brass will weather in (about 6 months here in CA)and
turn a dark brown. Painting, I found causes numerous
problems down the line because you either never full
remove the tape residue or the paint flakes or both. I
have painted al rail and
I don't have the funding, or the time, but I'm suprised no one has done
this yet. It seems like a natural conversion. :)
http://www.coyotes.org/~trotfox/pix/american.gif
Of course, I have an american fixation. ;]
Trot, the idea-throwing, fox...
/\_/\TrotFox\ Always
Bob,
Great stuff!
Where in SoCal?
Just curious,
Michael Martin
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
There's just one problem: note the wheel spacing. That one will require a
new frame and rods, in addition to the other obvious stuff. Also, to my taste,
an American has to have much larger wheels that the Ruby's. Americans
were passenger engines, with big drivers. Even the smallest of
The wheel spacing is the same as stock... Same frames, just moved back
under the cab. Same rods, just configured differently. I definately
agree with the wheel size, though I have seen some narrow-gauge locos with
tiny drivers that make the Ruby's look semi-normal in this
configuration.
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