I keep a spare valve on hand, too. I made a purpose-built "screwdriver" from a
piece of .020" brass. I cut a strip .5" x 1.25", and into one end I cut a
notch approx. .075" wide and .150" deep (not critical dimensions). This slips
over the neck of the standard Ronson valve and into the slots
Gunk as in crud, dirt, slime. Leftovers in the tubing from the construction
process. Also possible deterioration of any sealing mechanisms.
Mike Eorgoff
near Chicago
- Original Message -
From: "Gary" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent:
O.K. Gary;
As far as I know, there is not a better one available. I try to keep a
pair of needle nose pliers handy to tug on it if necessary. That works at
times. I was steaming up at the cabin fever expo on a siding when one of
Murray Wilson's alkie locos when by just as my last valve stuck.
Hi Jim,
Not sure I understood your note.
Are you recommending using Gunk to clean the fuel tank and fuel line?
Why would a Steamlines Shay butane valve be more prone to fouling than other
valves? (He asks knowing just how many problems had to be overcome to get
this loco to run as well as it does
Thanks Phil,
The valve itself is not resealing. The butane liquid squirts out of the
stainless steel nozzle.
No soapy water needed to test this one. I have wriggled it to see if it
might reseal without
success. You mention the valves are "pieces of junk". Is there an
alternative valve?
I better or
Assuming you are using one of the Ronson style filling valves, check to see
if the leak is coming from the outside threads. If that is the case, put
Teflon tape on them and see if it seals. If it's the filler valve, you must
replace it. These fillers are a pain in the butt and are totally un-relia
Sometimes it is just a matter of removing the valve and replacing it. Gunk
(stuff, use your own definition) loosens (and I've read that this engine is
really prone to it) and fouled the valve.
You may never see it -- try this before anything else.
Jim Crabb
Seabrook
