Royce,
I am making wheels and drivers in LS20.3 similar to yours but I have a
stainless steel tire and shaft mount cast in an epoxy steel body. Using a
delrin mold, the tire and hub are placed in the cavity and the steel is cast
into the mold. This produces a concentric bore and tread relation.
So, maybe the little punch marks, if "little" enough, could look like the grains of
sand in the sand mold? I was planning to beadblast the surface anyway to remove the
"machined" look.
royce
Trent Dowler wrote:
> Be careful with the jewelry store engraving. Most of it that I've seen was not
Some malls have a chain store called "Things Remembered" or "Times Remembered"
or something along that line. They can engrave on just about anything, with just
about any contour. They regularly engrave on wine glasses and other items that
have very complex surfaces. I've watched them a couple of
Yeah, that's how I would approach the curley's on the back side. Process is
not unlike that I used to make the driver patterns. I have been using a
modeling clay you get from Alumilite to do the filleting, etc. Works really
well. And dow corning 3110 for the molds. In fact, after having a sil
Hi Royce,
You can turn the back surface of the wheel on a minilathe or electric drill
chuck. Carve and fit one rib out of putty, plastic, wood, and press the rib
into some wax or soap and cast enough alumilite ribs to do the wheel.
You then make the master back plate pattern with the glued on ri
In a message dated 00-11-30 03:10:32 EST, you write:
<< As you can see there are many ways to skin this cat.
>>
Now you are going to get the cat lovers going, along with the tree
huggers!!
(joke :-) )
hkelsey wrote:
> Does the wheel have the curved ribs on the back surface?
>
> Harley
Yes, Harley, it does. That's the next problem. Any ideas?
I gotta say that I have received SO many ideas it's gonna take awhile to digest
them all. But at some point, my efforts (a result of standing on th
Hi Royce,
Most jewelry stores have a 2D engraver operated by a computer to engrave
watches, bracelets, etc. They usually have a list of fonts on their machine,
If they use a ball end cutter of what ever thickness you want, they can
carve out your letters in the arc.
If you are using alumilite, I
I've been watching this thread with a lot of interest. Now my "two cents
worth".
If the laser cutting idea doesn't play out as planned, you might try a
wire EDM machine to "burn" the letters out of shim stock material. The
only restriction with the EDM is that the material being cut must be ab
Scenic Woodlands makes dry transfers still. Most hobby shops carry their
line of rr stuff. could get it custom made by Larry Larsen(see ads in mags)
if he's still going with that.
jerry
>
> Yes, the aforementioned John Clark of Fall River Productions does the laser cutting
> for my kits, Hartford's kits, and others.
Thanks for the lead.
> the press-on type industry has fallen on hard times. You may have to search high
> and low to find some.
Oh, this is good news. : /
Why
Royce,
If you want to get Rub on letters, try the local High School.
especially if they have architecture or mechanical drawing classes.
I remember using rub-on letters to 'label' final presentation
drawings. Also blueprint/architecture shop or College/technical school
book store. If you choose
> Now, do you have a friend who does laser
> cutting too?
Yes, the aforementioned John Clark of Fall River Productions does the laser
cutting for my kits, Hartford's kits, and others. He's the one who showed me
that ABS could be laser-cut for modeling purposes.
> I do think, however, that I
Hi Gordon,
Thanks for responding. I've gotten so many good suggestions from so many
that I'm afraid I won't have time to try them all. But, a question about your
process. Would you end up with the raised letters on a background? And how
would this be attached to the wheel without showing?
Now we're talking, Harley. I had considered using letter stamps and casting
letters indivudually, but thought it too difficult (and small) to get them out
and onto a pattern. But casting them in the arc and attaching to a wheel
pattern (I use Alumilite urethane resin) at the same time sounds do-
Vance,
Laser cutting seems like the way to go. A 1/32" endmill is wider than the width
of the lines in the letters. Now, do you have a friend who does laser cutting too? I
do think, however, that I will try the etching process with stick on lettering as a
resist. I would imagine they make
Royce,
There are more options available than you might think. Send me a scan of the wheel
profile as well as a good drawing or picture of the lettering and I'd be happy to
take a look at it. If it looks "do-able" I'd be willing to take a crack at modeling
the wheel in CAD at no charge (just for
Royce,
I had the same problem a while ago. In a flat piece of jeweler's wax, I
pressed the letters from a stamping die set (you can get them in different
sizes.),
I then filled the impression of the letters with steel epoxy and then
centered the wheel surface onto the letters. Took a couple of tri
When I made a pattern to cast 1 1/2" scale wheels, I created lettering
using Dymo tape letters which self-stick to the pattern.
Did a nice job, but I don't know if Dymo make letters small enough for your
wheels. You could check their website.
Also wonder if craft stores like Michaels sell stick=on
> This might work if I can figure out how to cut the letters out.
Laser cutting. The beam is .005". I think .010" or .015" is about the
minimum thickness you can reasonably expect to get, but if your letters are
.018" or .020" thick, that should work. Styrene won't cut, it just melts, but AB
Hi Vance,
> cutting the letters from .015" ABS
> plastic, with a "tree" holding them together in the correct arc. Then you can
> glue the letters onto the surface and cut the tree off.
This might work if I can figure out how to cut the letters out. They're awfully
small. The scale is 1:20
Steve,
Thanks for responding. I suspect that Radio Shack's lawyers won't let them
sell the product in too strong a concentration, as we may damage ourselves. It
may be that just using Nitric acid is the answer, as suggested by Jerry Barnes.
royce
"Shyvers, Steve" wrote:
> Royce,
>
> I hav
Royce, here's another thought: how about cutting the letters from .015" ABS
plastic, with a "tree" holding them together in the correct arc. Then you can
glue the letters onto the surface and cut the tree off.
What scale did you say this is in? I'm surprised at the 2mm height for a
1:20.3 or
Terry,
Thanks for responding. I like your first suggestion best. But
don't the stamps you would use to imprint the name need to be non
reversed? Metal/leather stamps are reversed so the after stamping, they
read correctly on the stamped material. Imprinting a female mold would
require that
I have done art etchings on zinc and copper plates. Nitric acid will work
on both of them. You can use a wax block out-called ground(get at an art
supply store) to cover the areas you don't want to be etched. Be sure to
add the acid to the water to dilute it, not the other way around!
On etching
Royce,
The 2mm high is not a problem for the CNC mill -- Clark has milling cutters
1/32" or smaller. But if the surface is flat, then etching might well be a good
solution. Etched letters will spread a little as the etching proceeds, as you
noted, which is a good thing when modeling cast iro
Royce,
I have used Radio Shack etching solution to etch printed circuit boards. It
is an acid, I believe, but I cannot remember what variety. It probably is
the same acid that is used for commercial printed circuit board fabrication,
but in a more diluted solution.
All the printed circuit board
Hi Vance,
THanks for responding. A couple of things. 1. the letters are only 2mm
tall, and 2. the surface isn't curved, the lettering is on an arc. The letters
actually sit on a plane bordered by the wheel tire lip on the outside and the
wheel hub on the inside. The plane is acutally flat.
Royce,
I have done the following in sand casting;
1) First imprint your wheel master,
2) Then use leather or Metal stamping letters to imprint the name.
If you are using investment and wax, try raised letters attached
right to the wax.
You might also try Clay using the same process as th
Hi Susan,
Interesting suggestion. Got my grey cells in a twit. If I were to etch
the letters in brass, the etching would "splay" as it etched through the
thickness, correct? And then if I took the resulting negative template and
placed it on the wheel disk, filling the template would create
Hi Royce W.
You should be able to use Milliput (a two part modeling material which
becomes very hard when set) to make the letters.
To apply make a stencil out of brass, which could be photo etched. Squeegee
the Milliput to form the letters, then remoce the stencil. When dry you can
fill any
ve
> raised letters cast on the wheel face (solid). Can anyone suggest how I
> might get raised letters on a pattern.
Royce,
There are only two ways I can think of to do it: first, the same way as
the prototype foundries, by applying raised letters to the pattern.
Second, the Michaelangelo ap
Well, thanks for your response, Robb. Using an etching process crossed my mind, but,
not
having any experience at it, I wanted to pursue other options, if possible. Two
reasons : 1.
the etch would have to be on the "disk" of the wheel, and controlling where it started
and
stopped on the edge
Royce,
I have used photo etching to put a number on the front of my smoke box.
I used a product sold by Radio Shack for PC boards and stick on letters.
You would have to find small enough letters for your wheels.
I hope this helps Robb
Royce Woodbury wrote:
>
> Hi Listers,
> Have got a quest
Royce,
Sorry, I can't help you with your question, but I have to say, you are only
the fourth "other Royce" I have heard about to date. I am a Royce also! I
love live steam also! Must be something in our blood. Anyway, nice to meet
you. I'm curious, what is the history of why you were named
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