uot; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: Friday, September 24, 2004 7:38 PM
>Subject: RE: priming
>
>
>> Is anyone out there still alive?--there have been no contributions in a
>> week that I have received. None since I last sent one--er- is that the
>> problem??
>>
>
vesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Friday, September 24, 2004 7:38 PM
Subject: RE: priming
> Is anyone out there still alive?--there have been no contributions in a
> week that I have received. None since I last sent one--er- is that the
> problem??
>
> The only "primi
It is quiet, I hope all are OK after the Storms.
Bill.
- Original Message -
From: "Geoff Spenceley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, September 25, 2004 10:38 AM
Subject: RE: priming
Is anyo
Is anyone out there still alive?--there have been no contributions in a
week that I have received. None since I last sent one--er- is that the
problem??
The only "priming" I have seen is when I steam my locos and that gits in me
eyes.
With the deepest concern
Geoff.
>Terry
>
>-Original Message-
>From: ODH_REMOTE.GWIA."[EMAIL PROTECTED]"
>Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2004 12:27 AM
>To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>Subject: Re: priming
>
>At 10:10 PM 9/18/04 -0600, you wrote:
>>I just picked up a sandb
ECTED]"
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2004 12:27 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: priming
At 10:10 PM 9/18/04 -0600, you wrote:
>I just picked up a sandblaster at a yard sale, so I'm eager to try that
>-vance-
Vance,
I've had a small cannister (aka cra
Hi Kevin.
Just visited your website and reviewed your article on brass
blackening boiler jackets. In it, you mention the promise of nickel
silver. What have you found out about nickel silver as to it's
blackening affinity ?
royce in SB
Hi Harry.
Harry Wade wrote:
I have Thayer-Chandlers
That an airbrush mfgr?
have filtered air, eleiminate as much moisture and dirt
in the supply as possible.
I could probably stand to get a better moisture filter. My uses are for
large machines using air to apply pressure to feed rollers.
At 03:43 PM 9/19/04 -0700, you wrote:
>So what pressure would you recommend
>for "normal" airbrushing ? (I have a real compressor - up to 20cfm at
>175psi)
That's more than enough. I have Thayer-Chandlers and they do just fine
on 15psi or less and at fractional cfm. A much more important a
Mike Chaney wrote:
long ago I decided only to use
nickel silver
I'm intrigued by this "nickel silver" stuff. could you use it in place
of brass for everything ? And if so, to what advantage ? (I can deal
with having to anneal it for some purposes) Can you chemically blacken
it mor
Kevin Strong wrote:
I've just recently been getting reacquainted with my airbrush. I've
found them rather troublesome in the past, but have discovered that
most of the problems I encountered could be traced directly back to
the rather weak compressor I was using.
I found a box with a couple of
Generally, I'll use spray cans for most things. For 90% of the work we
do in this scale, they're fine. Sometimes I'll warm the spray can by
immersing it in hot water for a few minutes. This increases the pressure
inside the can, and gives you a finer spray out of the nozzle. I also do
a lot of
Nickel silver contains no silver, but some grades are similar in appearance.
The following information is from the Dial Tool Industries' website. Nickel
silver can be obtained in eight different grades of hardness (from
"annealed" to "extra spring"). 1/4 or 1/2 hard would probably be the best
co
Many tumblers are available on Ebay, just type in "rock tumbler". Prices
typically around the $30 mark, even kits of the differant 'polishing' grits.
I have been looking for one for my 9 yr old daughter for X-mas...
Kindest Regards,
PeteH
> Royce asked:-
>
> > I'd like to try this. A
Royce asked:-
> I'd like to try this. Any source for cheap tumblers ? And is there a
> grit # for "coarse"?
I don't know about cheap, but mine is a 3lb "stone polisher" sold for lapidary
here in England for about £50 ($90?) The abrasive is 80 grit.
> > long ago I decided only to use
> >nickel
Sorry Vance, but must disagree. Stop bath is a weakish solution of Acetic
acid - next one up the series from Formic acid. Formic acid is much more
irritant than Acetic acid. Formic acid is what ants inject you with when
thelittle blighters bite you. Commonest form of Acetic acid is Vinegar
At 10:10 PM 9/18/04 -0600, you wrote:
>I just picked up a sandblaster at a yard sale, so I'm eager to try that
>-vance-
Vance,
I've had a small cannister (aka crappy) sandblaster for years and not
long ago acquired a large cabinet unit, and I finally got some real
blasting abrasive (vs Home D
Photographic stop bath is a weak dilution of the formic acid mentioned earlier.
I just picked up a sandblaster at a yard sale, so I'm eager to try that the next time
I have
something to paint.
-vance-
If you were here, we'd be running trains by now.
ber 18, 2004 6:13 PM
Subject: Re: priming
> Hi Dave. thanks for responding.
>
> Haven't heard of "Duplicolor". these available at car parts stores ?
>
> And sanding with fine grit sandpaper is a great way to get tooth, but it
> isn't practical on castings
;Royce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 5:16 PM
Subject: Re: priming
ooh, ooh, ooh, this sounds like a "must-have" item. what do you use for
the abrasive ?
royce in SB
Sager
t;
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: priming
Hi Paul. thanks for responding.
Is this sand blaster like a paint sprayer with sand in the container
? I've actually got a Harbor Freight benchtop
whooo whoo does that hit home...
I am in process of repainting an Aristo Pacific. OK OK its not live steam
but the issue is paint not power!
The paint was brushed on and was so thick I easily scraped much of it off
with a dull hobby knife! Then much sanding to remove the remainder. As
Ro
Hi Dave. thanks for responding.
Haven't heard of "Duplicolor". these available at car parts stores ?
And sanding with fine grit sandpaper is a great way to get tooth, but it
isn't practical on castings and other fabricated parts. Hence my quest
for non-mechanical means of achieving tooth.
Kevin. I guess you know what it is that I'm thinking of painting. Yes,
it's actually that close to being done - after how many years ? But
I've admired your work (on your website) for a long time and can only
consider your input "priceless".
One further question : do you thin the paint and/o
Royce,
Muriatic or Muratic acid is the same as Hydrochloric acid
ANdre'
_
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a.
You can control the "blast" about as well as if you were using an airbrush.
Butch- Original Message -
From: "Royce" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Multiple recipients of sslivesteam" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 4:30 PM
Subject: Re
Andre' Schofield wrote:
Muratic acid
Opps, I meant common Hydrochloric acid, found in hardware stores.
royce in SB
Mike Chaney wrote:
Alternatively, for small parts, putting them in a tumbler with a coarse abrasive powder give a marvellous speckled matt finish which takes paint like a dream.
I'd like to try this. Any source for cheap tumblers ? And is there a
grit # for "coarse"?
long ago I decided only
Hi Paul. thanks for responding.
Is this sand blaster like a paint sprayer with sand in the container ?
I've actually got a Harbor Freight benchtop sand blasting cabinet which
I've only tested a couple of times. I have glass bead medium. My
impression is that this actually work hardens the su
Hi Andre'. Thanks for responding.
Andre' Schofield wrote:
I've heard on a couple other forums that using Muratic acid will do
the etching needed
This is just Nitric acid commonly available in hardware stores ? For
pool use ?
royce
Andre'
___
At 09:36 AM 9/18/04 -0600, you wrote:
>When I moved into my old house back east, the previous owner had left a
>box in the garage that at one time was a case of "Self-etching primer"
I use a self-etching primer sold by Sherwin-Williams in their
professional automotive stores, the product is
TECTED]>
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2004 8:38 AM
Subject: priming
> Hi folks.
> While I had intended to avoid the unsighliness of chipped paint on
> my models by chemical blackening, I'm not sure that I should rule out
> painting altogether. Does anyone have any sugges
When I moved into my old house back east, the previous owner had left a
box in the garage that at one time was a case of "Self-etching primer"
made by a company called Mar-hyde or something like that. I went to the
local auto parts store with the stock number off the box, and the
geniuses behin
Royce asked:-
> Does anyone have any suggestions as to "etching"
> brass to get a good "tooth" to which the paint or primer could bond ?
> Some intricate parts don't lend themselves to mechanical abrading to
> achieve "tooth".
Acid bath? Here in England I use a kettle descaler of which the mai
I have a small sand blaster that uses very fine grit it works great costs
15-20 dollars at harbor freight . You still need a
compressor but a small compressor can also be used for a number of other
steam related tasks ( air brush, running engines on air for timing etc )
Paul
Royce,
I've heard on a couple other forums that using Muratic acid will do the
etching needed
Andre'
_
Get ready for school! Find articles, homework help and more in the Back to
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Hi folks.
While I had intended to avoid the unsighliness of chipped paint on
my models by chemical blackening, I'm not sure that I should rule out
painting altogether. Does anyone have any suggestions as to "etching"
brass to get a good "tooth" to which the paint or primer could bond ?
Som
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