Latest docs emailed.
On this subject, I've noticed renewed discussion regarding the FE 5680a.
I've got parts to put another ten kits together if anyone is in need.
After these ten, it will be a matter of reordering boards if there is enough
interest.
cheers,
ian
Subject: [time-nuts] FE
Hi all,
Thanks to Herbert, Ian, Ignacio and Nigel for their help in providing,
one way or another, the information I required. Herbert asked for a
photo of the board and when I dug that out, there nestling on the HDD
were the zipped pdf files.
There ought to be a law against this, Murphy,
Thanks you both for your answers.
I had another jump (positive this time, 24h after the first one) and the efc
curve came back to its previous state, see :
http://uppix.net/f/4/d/c5a277798ca58bb04b41481ece6e7.png.
The receiver is a 6 channels and it outputs two 10 MHz and one PPS.
The antenna
HI Nigel woul it possble to sent the informatio to me as eMal is
corc...@yahoo.ca Than You.
From: gandal...@aol.com gandal...@aol.com
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2013 3:39:43 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] FE 5860A breakout board
Hi Geoff,
Ian's email address is
Hi Nigel,
Would it possible to sent me a copy as well My eMail is corc...@yahoo.ca
Thank You
From: gandal...@aol.com gandal...@aol.com
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2013 3:39:43 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] FE 5860A breakout board
Hi Geoff,
Ian's email address is
Hi Nigel,
Would it possible to sent me a copy as well My email is corc...@yahoo.ca
Thank You
From: gandal...@aol.com gandal...@aol.com
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Friday, March 1, 2013 3:39:43 PM
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] FE 5860A breakout board
Hi Geoff,
Ian's email address is
Claude,
I see a jump even smaller than the first one and as I calculated before
(in an answere to Said's mail) this latest jump is much less than the
first one of 550 microHz. I agree with Said that this could be a crystal
jump.
If you want to check the GPSDO's absolute frequency you'd
Hi
In any closed loop system, it's a bit hard to be 100% sure what moved and what
responded to the move. For instance, the reference voltage to the DAC could be
jumping. The only way to be sure is to tear everything apart and monitor each
piece long term.
That said, yes its about 99.(insert
Hi Iban well my knowledge of the older generation is not much use to you
:-)) still I always think any response will bring more comments out of the
woodwork even if only to correct the false impressions. The suggestion of
of a faulty chip on that remote digit sounds like a worthwhile way to go.
I am interested in the timing behavior of my RSA fob, which changes
every 60 seconds. Since I'm not about to open it up and probe inside, I
was wondering if someone had a clever way, say using a USB web cam, to
log the changes over a 48 hour period. You'd point the web cam at the
fob, and it
My fob only outputs a code on demand, that is after I push the button.
Any of the motion detection programs that use webcams would detect the change
in display, but with a multiplexed display, I'm not sure how well.
-Original Message-
From: Jim Lux jim...@earthlink.net
Sender:
Mark,
The jitter is always around 35ps, typ.
I think, you won't change anything on the latter parameter by re
alignment, because it's given mainly by the jitter of the Time
Interpolators and the zero crossing detectors.
The alignment procedure mainly calibrates the absolute T.I. accuracy to
On 3/2/13 12:30 PM, li...@lazygranch.com wrote:
My fob only outputs a code on demand, that is after I push the button.
Any of the motion detection programs that use webcams would detect the change
in display, but with a multiplexed display, I'm not sure how well.
Interesting point.. mine
I had one for work a while back and asked the IT security guys about it and was
told that the change was on a fixed schedule but of course each fob was a little
different due to temperature, over time, etc and that the system automatically
learned the fobs and opened or tightened its tolerance
On 3/2/13 1:10 PM, Peter Gottlieb wrote:
I had one for work a while back and asked the IT security guys about it
and was told that the change was on a fixed schedule but of course each
fob was a little different due to temperature, over time, etc and that
the system automatically learned the
If you think about it, there would have to be some time correction if only
because these fobs can't be all that accurate in maintaining time. That is,
they would be no better than a watch.
I'm not so keen on wearing out the internal battery since these things are now
$30 instead of $5 when
Fellow time-nuts,
Bumped into this, which is great humor in several senses:
http://www.techlib.com/electronics/atomic2.html
The CD4069UB is an unbuffered hex-inverter. About as simple and low-tech
you can get it (6 N-channel and 6 P-channel MOSFETs in total, and yes,
protection diodes on the
Hi Jim,
I had a similar challenge a while ago. I ended up capturing a 4-digit,
7-segment display with a USB/LAN webcam, converting the JPG to BMP, analyzing
pixel gradients, matching the image with heuristic masks, and appending an
ascii log file with the 4 decimal digit result once a minute.
On 3/2/13 1:29 PM, li...@lazygranch.com wrote:
If you think about it, there would have to be some time correction if only
because these fobs can't be all that accurate in maintaining time. That is,
they would be no better than a watch.
I'm not so keen on wearing out the internal battery since
On 3/2/13 2:52 PM, Tom Van Baak wrote:
Hi Jim,
I had a similar challenge a while ago. I ended up capturing a
4-digit, 7-segment display with a USB/LAN webcam, converting the JPG
to BMP, analyzing pixel gradients, matching the image with heuristic
masks, and appending an ascii log file with the
Perhaps you can detect EMI from the device especially if you put it it a
shielded metal box with pickup antenna. You might be able to get the clock
right from that.
On 3/2/2013 6:50 PM, Jim Lux wrote:
On 3/2/13 2:52 PM, Tom Van Baak wrote:
Hi Jim,
I had a similar challenge a while ago. I
Most two factor authentication systems have re-sync capability, rsa had thieir
token master key compromised for all des based tokens I believe
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 2, 2013, at 16:41, Jim Lux jim...@earthlink.net wrote:
On 3/2/13 1:29 PM, li...@lazygranch.com wrote:
If you think about
On 03/03/2013 01:00 AM, Peter Gottlieb wrote:
Perhaps you can detect EMI from the device especially if you put it it a
shielded metal box with pickup antenna. You might be able to get the
clock right from that.
Well, considering that actively driving a LCD segment involves passing
an AC field
On 3/2/13 4:12 PM, Magnus Danielson wrote:
On 03/03/2013 01:00 AM, Peter Gottlieb wrote:
Perhaps you can detect EMI from the device especially if you put it it a
shielded metal box with pickup antenna. You might be able to get the
clock right from that.
Well, considering that actively driving
On 03/03/2013 01:39 AM, Jim Lux wrote:
On 3/2/13 4:12 PM, Magnus Danielson wrote:
On 03/03/2013 01:00 AM, Peter Gottlieb wrote:
Perhaps you can detect EMI from the device especially if you put it it a
shielded metal box with pickup antenna. You might be able to get the
clock right from that.
Hi Alan,
finally I solved the issue removing the 1121 board from the pts3200
and putting a 1121 board from a pts160 and now works perfect.
Looks that the unit have some customizations from the manufacturer.
Thanks for all guys.
73! Iban
eb3frn
On Sat, Mar 2, 2013 at 5:02 PM, Alan Melia
I finally got the antenna outside, but just onto a deck railing and not yet up
high on the roof. Before I do that, does it look like I'm getting decent
performance from it? Here is the LH display:
Once up on the roof the Westerly exposure will be improved, but North East and
South are
Hi
If there was a file / image attached , it didn't make it through. North doesn't
matter much, South is a very big deal. That of course assumes you are in the US
or Europe.
Bob
On Mar 2, 2013, at 9:45 PM, Peter Gottlieb n...@verizon.net wrote:
I finally got the antenna outside, but just
Typical, the image didn't go through. Here is a link to it:
http://petergottlieb.com/images/tbolt.gif
On 3/2/2013 9:45 PM, Peter Gottlieb wrote:
I finally got the antenna outside, but just onto a deck railing and not yet up
high on the roof. Before I do that, does it look like I'm getting
Hi
Has anybody traced out the connections on the DB-37 connector on the back of
this beast yet? It's not quite the same as the 110 pin connector on the back of
the NTBW50AA. I suspect it's got the same sort of stuff on it.
Bob
___
time-nuts mailing
Hi
As much as can be told from a 17 minute plot - looks ok. The antenna could
indeed be a bit higher and that would hopefully take care of the crummy sat c/n
numbers. What kind of feed line / antenna are you using? Cable TV RG-6 quad
shield from your local big box store is a real good choice
The antenna has a pretty clear sky view right now. I have about 75 feet of
cable, 25 feet that came attached permanently to the antenna, might be RG-59,
and a 50 foot extension which is a new piece of good quality RG-6 CATV cable.
Perhaps the antenna (came with the tbolt in the ebay deal) is
Has anybody traced out the connections on the DB-37 connector on
the back of this beast yet?
I never looked at the 37-pin connector on the back of the unit but back
in December, 2012 I did post that I had added a display and an A.C.
supply to the one I had and it seems to be working fine. I
Peter wrote:
The antenna has a pretty clear sky view right now. I have about 75
feet of cable, 25 feet that came attached permanently to the
antenna, might be RG-59, and a 50 foot extension which is a new
piece of good quality RG-6 CATV cable.
Perhaps the antenna (came with the tbolt in
On Sat, Mar 2, 2013 at 7:14 PM, Peter Gottlieb n...@verizon.net wrote:
The antenna has a pretty clear sky view right now. I have about 75 feet of
cable, 25 feet that came attached permanently to the antenna, might be
RG-59, and a 50 foot extension which is a new piece of good quality RG-6
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