Jack I use shafting beads all the time. As I remember the instructions, they said not to add more than 5% by volume of beads. I think this is probably more than what is really needed. I first mix my epoxy without beads, then sprinkle a little on top, then remix. Being inert, the beads don't effect cure time. They only marginally effect the thickness of the epoxy. I've never had a shaft that was so loose that I've had epoxy/structural failure, so I wouldn't worry much about too loose. As far as the head and shaft moving after assembly, most of us assemble the simply set the club aside (out of the way) on our bench or a table with the club standing in a near vertical position.
If you don't knock the table or bench or handle the club, it won't move on its own. Go for it....you'll be fine. Brad On 8/16/02 6:02 PM, "Jack Russell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Can anyone provide some tips on using shafting beads? > > I have Dynacraft's beads and would like to use them > when I assemble Harrison Steel Lite shafts and Z-Model > stainless irons. At least one of the heads has a > fairly loose-fitting hosel that's probably a few > thousandths oversize. I know the beads are supposed to > center shafts in the hosel, but how much of a loose > fit can they safely compensate for? What is correct > proportion of shafting beads to epoxy? Do the beads > have any effect on the epoxy's pot life or cure time? > With lose-fitting hosels, what's the best way to let > the epoxy cure without moving the shaft and clubhead > out of alignment? (I'm assuming the addition of > shafting beads will thicken the epoxy, perhaps > significantly.) > > As always, any info will be greatly appreciated. > > Jack Russell > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > HotJobs - Search Thousands of New Jobs > http://www.hotjobs.com
