I never had a problem like that when simply heating a hosel. If toxic gases are released it will occur during a total meltdown of the metal.
TFlan ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dan Allan" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2003 6:34 PM Subject: Re: ShopTalk: BeCu > I could be wrong, but I "heard" someone say a long > time ago that when working with BeCu, when you heat it > up, there is a toxic gas produced that can be > extremely hazardous. > > Would someone correct me if I am wrong and I will file > it under Golf Club Urban Legends... > > Dan > > --- tflan <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hi; > > > > No doubt many of you have worked on BeCu irons. It > > seems as though I've had a glut of them over the > > past month. The most recent set was from a guy who > > "couldn't feel the head" when swinging. These are > > Ping Eye 2 BeCu, black dot. I checked the SW. It was > > C-5! I suggested tip weights or lead tape. The guy > > didn't want either. So I suggested making the clubs > > a little longer, 1/2", which would pick up at least > > 3 points. I also suggested lighter weight grips, 35 > > - 40 gram rather than the 53 gram Golf Pride Tour > > Velvets he was using. He opted for lengthening the > > shafts. I did it. Got the SW to D-7. It still wasn't > > enough. So he decided upon tip weights. > > > > If you've ever heated a BeCu head you know that it > > takes a long time to melt the epoxy . . . especially > > the stuff Ping uses. I heated the first head with a > > propane torch 'til that sucker turned black. Then it > > occurred to me that Cu is a hell of a heat > > conductor. I needed something to dissipate the heat. > > I tried using a soaking wet towel wrapped around the > > head. No good. A "heat sink" was the possible > > answer. So I used an 8" steel spring clamp connected > > to the head just below the hosel. Using the clamp > > cut the heat time by more than half. > > > > I then decided to test the method by heating one > > head without the heat sink, and another with the > > heat sink installed. The "unsunk" head took nearly a > > full minute of direct propane heat before the epoxy > > "popped." The head with the heat sink popped within > > 20 seconds . . . and with less heat "stains." > > > > I added tip weights to get D-1, shimmed and epoxied > > the heads back onto the shafts, and cleaned up the > > heat marks with "Simoniz Liquid Chrome Polish" > > (which works better than "Blue Away, Bartender's > > Friend," Comet, and most anything else I've tried.) > > > > The heat sink method won't work on metal woods but > > on irons its a real time saver. Give it a try next > > time you're pulling an iron head. > > > > TFlan > > > > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software > http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
