Only thing I'd do different is have the cocktail first to steady the hands for this job! Thanks for the reply, TFlan. Mr. Leung sent me an email earlier today and I suggested sending it along to the experienced members of shoptalk.
Please accept my offer of a set of 13 Star grips as thanks.
Send me a quick note with your address and I'll get them out to you.
John
shoptalk
You do not heat the head! First thing to do is remove the whipping. Then look for a small screwhead in the back of the hosel. It's likely to be covered with epoxy or paint or putty. Remove the screw. If it won't move, heat it with the tip of a soldering iron. If you don't have a soldering iron, heat the end of a 1/8" rod and apply it to the head. If that doesn't work you can try to drill it out. If that doesn't work, well, here's the final solution. Clamp the head in your vise, between your rubber, protective clamps. Cover the rubber with a soft towel or the like to protect the finish. Use a nail-set or other punch, and hammer the screw into the head. One other thing to do is if you aren't trying save the shafts, cut them off as high up from the hosel as your longest drill bit allows. Then drill through the screw, then punch the head into the shaft tip, and punch the end of the screw into the head.

Now, to remove the shaft, heat the tip of your 48" steel rod and shove it into the shaft. This will heat the epoxy, loosen it, and allow you to remove the head. You may have to heat and repeat several times.

If you have to pull the sole plate, mark the position of each screw carefully. I draw a picture of the sole and shove the screws through the paper in the corresponding position.

Glue the new shaft in, re-whip, and have a cocktail.

TFlan

Brice K.H. Leung wrote:Re-shafting persimmon woodsI'm trying to re-shaft my Lousiville persimmon woods (one with whip, one without whip). Is there any special techinque? I worried the heat gun

will ruin the wood finish and the whip.
Regards,
Brice


--
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Thanks!
John Muir
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