Here's some info on the Graman CUL Series (known as Chrome Limey).
http://www.clubmaker-online.com/graman.limey.html 48", available in
several different weight ranges. Prices are decent starting at $36
for the 55g, 3.3 torque model.
John
shoptalk
You might want to take a look at some of the Graman shafts. They
have some longer shafts available and a veriety of torque options.
The blind bore is the best way to go with a Titileist head. Remeber
the further you insert the shaft the lower your torque will be. So
If you find a tip stiff soft middle with a long tipping section with
a torque that is a little bit higher than your looking for. It might
just be the right ticket. If you have a torque measuring system
then you can test the torque at the point on the shaft where it
would be coming out of the hosel. Usually about an inch to an inche
and half from your final tip after cutting for frequency.
Sincerely,
Robert Devino
14252 Delano St.
Van Nuys, Ca. 91401
(818) 770-0475
--- On Thu, 10/9/08, Tom Janson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: Tom Janson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: reshaft of Titleist 907 D2
To: ShopTalk@mail.msen.com
Date: Thursday, October 9, 2008, 6:00 AM
The person I'm reshafting this for wants a low-torque shaft but not
very 'stiff'. Wishon has one that I think will work. I'm not going
to insert it all the way. I'll check the frequency of the shaft I'm
removing to get me a starting point. He likes them long too. This
ones going to be 46" and he's played some drivers up to 48".
Tom
----- Original Message ----
From: Robert Devino <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ShopTalk@mail.msen.com
Sent: Tuesday, October 7, 2008 12:11:42 PM
Subject: Re: ShopTalk: reshaft of Titleist 907 D2
I did a lot of bore through heads when I was building at HotStix in
Arizona. A regular shaft puller technique while heating both the
hosel and the underside of the head works just fine. Did a good
number of blind bores too and didn't have any problems. If you just
drill out about 1 1/2 inches of the old shaft you number one don't
have to redo the plug on the bottom of the head. and also you don't
need to get a shaft especially designed for a bore through head. to
have the kick point in the right spot you need to have a shaft that
has the extra tip length to account for the depth of the bore
through. That's why I always favored a blind bore technique.
Titileist has those shafts made special for all their heads so they
frequency correctly. Using a standard shaft will probably not work
out the way you want it to if you don't blind bore.
Sincerely,
Robert Devino
14252 Delano St.
Van Nuys, Ca. 91401
(818) 770-0475
----- Original Message ----
From: Tom Janson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: ShopTalk@mail.msen.com
Sent: Monday, October 6, 2008 7:30:31 PM
Subject: ShopTalk: reshaft of Titleist 907 D2
Hosel looks like it is a separate piece than the head. Is there
anything special I need to do to remove this shaft?
Thanks,
Tom Janson
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